The Daisy Chain Sweater is the perfect transitional piece to carry you through the season in style! Made with a lightweight cotton blend yarn and simple stitches, this textured crochet sweater is an easy project that’s bound to become a go-to wardrobe staple.

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textured crochet sweater

Spring Sweater Weather!

We are in the season of the POLLEN. It’s such a shame that it’s so beautiful outside, generally because of all the sneezing. I do love transitional weather, but it can be challenging to decide what to wear when there is a 20 plus degree difference between the morning and afternoon. The Daisy Chain Sweater is the kind of lightweight layer that makes spring feel effortless. Worked in a breathable DK‑weight cotton blend, it brings together gentle texture and a relaxed, feminine silhouette—complete with a wide neckline, ribbed hem, and delicately detailed sleeve cuffs.

Designed as a true transitional piece, it adds just the right amount of warmth for those in‑between days when the air shifts from cool to mild and you want something pretty, polished, and easy to throw on as the seasons change.

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Design and Inspiration

I have a machine knit sweater in my closet with a ribbing detail across the neckline and shoulders, and every time I wear it, I think, “I could make that”. And from that detail, the Daisy Chain Sweater was born! This textured crochet sweater is a simple construction consisting of two identical panels for the main body that are then seamed together at the shoulders and sides.  Shaping rows at the shoulders provide additional room for the generously wide neckline before adding the textured rows across the top of the panel.

Originally, the sleeves were going to be full length with a ribbed cuff, but it was too clunky for this sweater, so I started over. And I don’t regret that decision because I love a ¾ length sleeve, and it was the right choice for this sweater. There are no increase/decrease rows for the sleeves, they are the same width from the cuff to the armhole.  Super easy! The sleeves are finished with simple detailing to slightly cinch in the cuffs and provide a beautiful detail. 

Scroll down for the Daisy Chain Sweater FREE crochet pattern and click here to PIN this for later!

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Hooray for Cotton-Blend Yarns!

I have been waiting for Lion Brand Yarn to come out with more DK weight yarn, and they exceeded all expectations with their new cotton-blend yarn! Oh, how I love cotton blend yarn, especially for warm weather garments. Cottino by Lion Brand is an absolute dream. It’s a cotton/Superwash merino blend with a textured twist. Working with this yarn has been such a pleasure, it’s so soft and has a great feel as I was crocheting with it. And the drape for this textured crochet sweater was perfect! I enjoyed it so much, I already have an order in for another color that will be a project later this summer.

Scroll down for the Daisy Chain Sweater FREE crochet pattern and click here to PIN this for later!

Want the ad-free PDF version of the Daisy Chain Sweater?  Visit my ETSY and RAVELRY shops!

The Daisy Chain Sweater – Textured Crochet Sweater

This textured crochet sweater is not long off my crochet hook and it’s already one of my favorites! I love the relaxed fit, the way the sleeves balloon out slightly for a delicate and feminine look, the ribbed hem, the detail at the top – all of it! Cottino cotton blend yarn was the perfect choice for this design, I hope you give it a try, but any DK weight yarn will work, and I love to see variations. Get started on your sweater today so you can wear it all spring and summer, happing crocheting, friends!

Want more spring crochet inspiration? Check out the Equinox Wrap, the Overlook Cardigan and the Clarity Top!

textured crochet sweater

Scroll down for the Daisy Chain Sweater FREE crochet pattern and click here to PIN this for later!


The Daisy Chain Sweater – Free Crochet Pattern

SKILL LEVEL:  Advanced Beginner

MATERIALS:

US Size 7/4.5 mm crochet hook

Lion Brand Cottino (Weight: #3/DK 55% Cotton, 45% Superwash Merino – 296 yards/271 meters, 3.5 ounces/100 grams)

  • Straw – 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) (7, 8, 9, 10) skeins; approximately 1480 (1480, 1776, 1776, 2072) (2072, 2368, 2664, 2960) yards.

Stitch Markers

Scissors

Yarn needle 

Measuring Tape

SIZES:

 FITS CHESTFINISHED CHESTLENGTH OF FRONT AND BACK PANELS (including ribbing and top detail of panels)FINISHED BACK WIDTH (shoulder to shoulder)ARMHOLE DEPTHSLEEVE LENGTH (including cuff)RIBBING HEIGHT (front/back panels)HEIGHT OF DETAIL AT TOP OF PANEL (front/back panels)
XS28-30”32”17”16”6.5”9.75”2.5”1.5”
S32-34”36”18”18”7”10.25”2.5”1.5”
M36-38”40”19”20”7.5”11”2.5”1.5”
L40-42”44”20”22”8”11”2.5”1.5”
XL44-46”48”21”24”8.5”9.75”2.5”1.5”
2X48-50”52”22”26”9”9.75”2.5”1.5”
3X52-54”56”22”28”9.5”9.75”2.5”1.5”
4X56-58”60”23”30”10”8.75”2.5”1.5”
5X60-62”64”23”32”10.5”8.75”2.5”1.5”

 *FITS CHEST refers to the measurement of the intended wearer.  FINISHED CHEST refers to the measurements of the finished garment (circumference of back panel and front panel once seamed together). 

*This sweater is intended to have a relaxed, comfortable fit with 4-6 inches of positive ease in the main panels of the sweater.  The sweater can be customized in the length of the sweater panels and the sleeves.

 The sweater pictured is a size Large and the model is 5’4” with a 40” bust. 

GAUGE:          

  • 18 stitches (9 sc/9 dc) X 18 rows = 4 inches
  • Ribbing (half double crochet in the back loop only) – 13 rows = 4 inches

It is recommended to work a gauge swatch that mirrors the pattern instructions, from the ribbing up. 

GAUGE SWATCH:

Ribbing is crocheted first, and then is turned horizontally to work stitches across the ends of the rows to continue the swatch from the bottom up. 

Ribbing:  Ch 13

Row 1:  Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across.  Turn.  (12)

Row 2:  Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc in both loops in first st.  Hdc BLO in next st and in each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn. (12)

Rows 3 – 21:  Repeat Row 2.

Turn the ribbing horizontally to work stitches into the ends of the rows.  Work approximately 4 single crochet stitches for every 3 ribbing rows:

Row 1 (RS):  Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc across the ends of the ribbing row ends according to the instructions above. Turn.  (28 sc sts)

Row 2 (WS):  Ch 1, dc in first st (same st at base of tch).  *Sk next st, (sc/dc) in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st remains.  Sc in last st.  Turn.  (28 sts)

Repeat Row 2 until main stitch pattern is more than 4 inches.  Measure ribbing and main stitch pattern WITHIN your swatch to determine gauge.   

ABBREVIATIONS

ch(s) – chain(s)

sc – single crochet

sc BLO – single crochet in BACK loop only

sc FLO – single crochet in FRONT loop only

sc2tog – single crochet two together

hdc – half double crochet

hdc BLO – half double crochet in BACK loop only

dc – double crochet

sl st – slip stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

PM – place marker

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

OVERALL PATTERN NOTES:

  • Pattern is written in smallest size with larger sizes following in parentheses:  XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). 
  • The sweater is worked in two identical panels for the main body that are then seamed together at the shoulders and sides.  Shaping rows are worked for both front and back panels, which will add an additional two inches (all sizes) of length to the panels from the shoulder to the ribbing.  The panels are then finished with additional detailed rows at the top that are worked across the width of the top of the panel.   
  • The neckline of this sweater is generously sized to provide a wide neck opening.  Once the panels are seamed together, a final row is crocheted around the neck opening for a finishing detail.
  • Ribbing is crocheted first at the bottom hems of the panels and then turned horizontally to work single crochet stitches across the ends of the rows.  The panels are worked from the bottom ribbing up following the main stitch pattern of crocheting single/double crochet stitches into the same stitch.
  • Each row will begin with a double crochet and end with a single crochet. 
  • Sleeves are ¾ length and are worked separately from the cuff and seamed onto the armholes.  There are no increase/decrease rows for the sleeves, they are the same width from the cuff to the armhole.  The sleeves are finished with simple detailing to slightly cinch in the cuffs.  The cuff detailing adds less than an inch to the overall sleeve length.
  • Ch 1 and Ch 2 do NOT count as stitches. 
  • If you are adding length to the sweater, end with a Row 2 repeat that is an odd number row.  If you are adding length to the sleeves, end with a Row 2 repeat.    
  • Please make sure to purchase enough yarn if you are adding length to the panels and/or sleeves.

Special Stitches

Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog):  Insert hook into intended stitch, YO and pull up a loop (two loops on the hook).  Insert hook into next stitch, YO and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook).  YO and pull through all three loops. 

MAIN PANELS OF THE SWEATER (make 2)

Notes:  Ribbing is crocheted first and then is turned horizontally to work stitches across the ends of the rows to continue the panels from the bottom up. 

RIBBING

Foundation Row:  Ch 13. 

Row 1:  Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each across.  Turn.  (12 hdc sts)

Row 2:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st (same st at base of tch).  Hdc BLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn.  (12 hdc sts)

Rows 3 – 53 (60, 66, 73, 79) (86, 92, 100, 106):  Repeat Row 2.  Do not fasten off, continue using the same working yarn from the ribbing. 

Continuing the Panel

Turn the ribbing horizontally to work stitches into the ends of the rows.  Work approximately 4 single crochet stitches for every 3 ribbing rows as per below:

  • XS:  72 sts across 53 rows – 4 sc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 4 sc sts into last 2 rows. 
  • S:  80 sts across 60 rows – 4 sc sts for every 3 ribbing rows. 
  • M: 88 sts across 66 rows – 4 sc sts for every 3 ribbing rows.    
  • L:  98 sts across 73 rows – 4 sc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 2 sc sts into last row. 
  • XL:  106 sts across 79 rows – 4 sc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 2 sc sts into last row. 
  • 2X:  116 sts across 86 rows – 4 sc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 4 sc sts into last 2 rows. 
  • 3X:  124 sts across 92 rows – 4 sc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 4 sc sts into last 2 rows.      
  • 4X:  134 sts across 100 rows – 4 sc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 2 sc sts into last row.    
  • 5X:  142 sts across 106 rows – 4 sc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 2 sc sts into last row.

Row 1 (RS):  Ch 1, sc across the ends of the ribbing row ends according to the instructions above. Turn.  [72 (80, 88, 98, 106) (116, 124, 134, 142) sts]

Row 2 (WS):  Ch 1, dc in first st (same st at base of tch).  *Sk next st, (sc/dc) in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st remains.  Sc in last st.  Turn.  [72 (80, 88, 98, 106) (116, 124, 134, 142) sts]

Rows 3 – 59 (65, 69, 73, 77) (83, 87, 91, 95):  Repeat Row 2.  Do not fasten off, you will now work shaping rows for the neck opening.   

Reference Photos – Ribbing and First Row

Reference Photos – Main Stitch Combo

SHAPING ROWS

With panel lying flat and RS facing up, count 18 (20, 22, 24, 28) (30, 32, 34, 36) stitches in from each side and place marker into that stitch.    

  • Shoulder on the right side: 

Row 1 (WS):  Ch 1, dc in first st (same st at base of tch).  *Sk next st, (sc/dc) in next st.* Repeat from * to * until marked st remains.  Sc in marked st.  Turn.  [18 (20, 22, 24, 28) (30, 32, 34, 36) sts]

Row 2 (RS) decrease:  Ch 1, sk first st, sk next st, (sc/dc) in next st. PM in sc st. *Sk next st, (sc/dc) in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st remains.  Sc in last st.  Turn.   [17 (19, 21, 23, 27) (29, 31, 33, 35) sts]

Row 3 (decrease):  Ch 1, dc in first st.  *Sk next st, (sc/dc) in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st and marked st remains.  Sc2tog in last two sts.  Turn.   [16 (18, 20, 22, 26) (28, 30, 32, 34) sts]

Fasten off.

Reference Photos – Shaping Rows (right side)

  • Shoulder on the left side: 

With panel lying flat with RS facing up and completed shoulder to your right, join yarn at the stitch marker on the left.   

Row 1 (WS):  Ch 1, dc in first st (same st at base of tch), PM in this st.  *Sk next st, (sc/dc) in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st remains.  Sc in last st.  Turn.  [18 (20, 22, 24, 28) (30, 32, 34, 36) sts]

Row 2 (RS) decrease:  Ch 1, dc in first st.  *Sk next st, (sc/dc) in next st.* Repeat from * to * until two sts and marked st remains.  Sk next st, sc in next st, sc in marked st.  Turn. [17 (19, 21, 23, 27) (29, 31, 33, 35) sts]

Row 3 (decrease):  Ch 1, sk first st, dc in next st.  *Sk next st, (sc/dc) in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st remains.  Sk in last st.  Turn[16 (18, 20, 22, 26) (28, 30, 32, 34) sts]

Do not fasten off, you will now work the single crochet finishing rows at the top of the panel. 

Reference Photos – Shaping Rows (left side)

Row 1 (RS):  Ch 1, sc in first st.  Sc in next st and each st across, working four sc sts into the ends of the shaping rows on each shoulder.  Turn.  [76 (84, 92, 102, 110) (120, 128, 138, 146) sc sts]

Row 2 (WS):  Ch 1, sc in both loops of first st.  Sc FLO next st and each st across, ending with sc in both loops of last st.  Turn.  [76 (84, 92, 102, 110) (120, 128, 138, 146) sc sts]

Rows 3 – 5:  Repeat Row 2.  Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. 

Reference Photos – Detail Rows at Top of Panel

SLEEVES (make 2)

Sleeves are worked flat in turned rows from the forearm to the shoulder and rows do not increase or decrease.  The long yarn tail is used to seam the sleeves onto the armholes and down the inside of the sleeve to the cuffs. 

Foundation Row:  Ch 59 (65, 69, 73, 77) (83, 87, 91, 95)

Row 1 (RS):  Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across.  Turn.  [58 (64, 68, 72, 76) (82, 86, 90, 94) sc sts]

Row 2 (WS):  Ch 1, dc in first st (same st at base of tch).  *Sk next st, (sc/dc) in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st remains.  Sc in last st.  Turn. 

Rows 3 – 44 (46, 50, 50, 44) (44, 44, 39, 39):  Repeat Row 2.  Fasten sleeve off, leaving a yarn tail twice the length of the entire armhole and down the inside of the sleeve to the cuff.    

SEAMING THE PANELS AND SLEEVES

PANELS

Lay the back panel flat with the right side facing up and position the front panel on top with the wrong side facing up.  You will be seaming the sweater together with the wrong sides facing out.  Line up the single crochet stitches at the top of the sweater and secure with stitch markers, making sure to place a marker to secure the panels together at 16 (18, 20, 22, 26) (28, 30, 32, 34) stitches in from each side. This aligns with the final stitch count at the end of the last shaping row for each shoulder.  You will not seam together more than this number of stitches.  Using the yarn tails, seam the shoulders.  I used the mattress stitch to seam my sweater as this creates a smooth join. 

Line up the sides of the sweater and pin, leaving 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) inches for the armholes.  Make sure the rows are lined up with each other from the back panel to the front panel.   Join yarn at the armpits and seam down the sides of the sweater, ending where the ribbed cuff begins.  Again, I used the mattress stitch to seam my sweater as this creates a smooth join. 

SLEEVES

Repeat for both sleeves:

Lay the sleeves flat with right side facing up and fold the sleeve over to line up the rows.  The wrong side is now facing up; pin the sleeve together down the inner seam to hold in place, making sure to line up the rows.  Attach the sleeve to the armhole with stitch markers.    

Using the long yarn tail and beginning at the armpit, seam the sleeves to the armhole using the mattress seam, working your way back to the armpit.  From the armpit, continue seaming down the inside of the sleeve to the cuffs and fasten off. 

Reference Photos – Seaming the Panels and Sleeves

CUFF DETAIL EDGING

Cuffs are crocheted onto the ends of the sleeves in rounds that do not turn.  The first round is crocheted into the foundation chain of the sleeve and the directions below apply as for both sleeves. 

**You should have the same number of stitches as for the flat turned rows of the sleeves, but depending on how you join yarn, you may have one or two more or less stitches; this is not crucial as long as the first round worked does not pucker or curl which would indicate too many or too few stitches.

With the sweater facing right side out, join yarn at the end of the sleeve at the inner seam.  Working along the outer side of the cuff that is facing up: 

Round 1 (RS):  Ch 1, sc in the same st as join and PM in this stitch.  Sc BLO into each chain around back to marked stitch, sl st to marked st.  DO NOT TURN. 

Round 2 (WS) decrease:  Ch 1, sc in first st (same as st at base of tch), PM in this st.  Sc2tog in next two sts.  *Sc in next st, sc2tog in next two sts.*  Repeat from * to * around back to marked st.  If one st remains, sc in last st.  Sl st to marked st.  DO NOT TURN. 

Round 3:  Repeat Round 1.  DO NOT TURN.

Round 4:  Sl st in next st, PM in this st. Sl st in each st around, back to marked st.  Sl st in marked st and fasten off. 

Repeat the above for the other sleeve. 

Reference Photos – Cuff Detail Edging

COLLAR DETAIL EDGING

Edging is added to the neckline in one final round as a finishing detail.  Overall stitch count is not important as long as stitches are crocheted evenly so this round does not pucker or curl. 

With the sweater lying flat and right side facing up, join yarn at the shoulder seam on your right.  Working along the front panel: 

Round 1:  Ch 1, sc into same st as join and PM into this st.  Sc BLO in next st and each st around back to marked st.  Sl st in marked st and fasten off.

Weave in all your ends! 

Reference Photos – Collar Detail Edging

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