Introducing The Breezy Days Cardigan, a summerweight crochet cardigan designed with a relaxed and boxy fit, short sleeves, and just the right amount of open stitch texture. Available in nine sizes, this breezy lightweight cardigan will be your new favorite layer for warm-weather crafting and wearing!
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Summer Crochet!
You will find me crocheting year-round, but some days it’s just too hot to do anything. Every summer, I find myself wanting to keep my hands busy with yarn, even when the weather is telling me to reach for the lightest project possible. The beginning of July this year has been no exception, as we have seen three digits on the thermometer here in central North Carolina! This summerweight crochet cardigan is the type of project that still gives you the joy of garment making without the weight of a heavy sweater in your lap.
This relaxed and boxy summerweight crochet cardigan is light enough to toss over a tank, dress, or tee without feeling bulky, while the simple construction makes it an approachable project for confident beginners and beyond. Whether you’re heading out on a sunny afternoon or adding a handmade touch to everyday outfits, The Breezy Days Cardigan is the perfect balance of casual, comfortable, and beautifully handmade.
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Inspired by Yarn
Sometimes a specific yarn will inspire design, and this summerweight crochet cardigan is the perfect example of that. I used Cottino by Lionbrand (for the second time this year, see The Daisy Chain Sweater). This light DK weight yarn has been my go-to choice for warm-weather crafting. It’s so soft and easy to work with and it comes in beautiful colors. I wanted to design an open stitch and relaxed fit cardigan that was light enough for layering but stylish enough to stand on its own. My favorite part of this cardigan is the ribbed hemline; that is a staple in many of my garment designs.
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Design Notes
This summerweight crochet cardigan is made from the bottom-up with separate panels that are seamed together. The measurements are generously sized with a 4–6-inch positive ease and are intended to create a slouchy boxy fit. Size up or down for your perfect fit and adding or removing length in the panels is easy with a three-row repeat. The main stitch combination and sleeve construction is similar to that in the Haven Top and creates a mesh like open stitch using basic stitches. In addition, the ribbing for the hemline is the same one used in the Kismet Top and is the perfect finishing touch for this lightweight cardigan.
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The Breezy Days Summerweight Crochet Cardigan
This breezy summerweight crochet cardigan is the perfect warm-weather layer you’ll want to wear all season. Although not required, a light steam block gives it extra drape and helps relax the stitches and ribbing. Use your favorite DK weight yarn, Cottino (a personal favorite), or those special hand-dyed skeins you’ve been saving. Either way, you’ll end up with a unique, one-of-a-kind piece that’s bound to earn compliments for your handmade style.
Scroll down for the Breezy Days Cardigan FREE crochet pattern and click here to PIN this for later!
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The Breezy Days Cardigan – Free Crochet Pattern for a Summerweight Cardigan
SKILL LEVEL: Advanced Beginner
MATERIALS:
US Size H/6 5.00 mm crochet hook
Featured Yarn: Lion Brand Cottino, Weight #3/DK (55% Cotton/45% Superwash Merino Wool – 296 yards/271 meters, 3.5 ounces/100 grams)
- Sedona – 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9) skeins; approximately 888 (888, 1184, 1184, 1480) (1776, 2072, 2368, 2664) yards.
Stitch Markers
Scissors
Yarn needle
Measuring Tape
SIZES:
| FITS CHEST | FINISHED CHEST | LENGTH OF FRONT AND BACK PANELS (including two-inch ribbing) | FINISHED BACK WIDTH (shoulder to shoulder) | FRONT PANEL WIDTH (including 1.5-inch collar edging) | ARMHOLE DEPTH | |
| XS | 28-30” | 32” | 18” | 18” | 7.5” | 6.5” |
| S | 32-34” | 36” | 19” | 20” | 8.5” | 7” |
| M | 36-38” | 40” | 20” | 22” | 9.5” | 7.5” |
| L | 40-42” | 44” | 21” | 24” | 10.5” | 8” |
| XL | 44-46” | 48” | 22” | 26” | 11.5” | 8.5” |
| 2X | 48-50” | 52” | 23” | 28” | 12.5” | 9” |
| 3X | 52-54” | 56” | 24” | 30” | 13.5” | 9.5” |
| 4X | 56-58” | 60” | 25” | 32” | 14.5” | 10” |
| 5X | 60-62” | 64” | 26” | 34” | 15.5” | 10.5” |
*PLEASE NOTE: All measurements in the chart above are BEFORE blocking.
*FITS CHEST refers to the measurement of the intended wearer. FINISHED CHEST refers to the measurements of the finished garment.
*This cardigan is intended to have a relaxed, comfortable fit with 4-6 inches of positive ease in the main panels of the cardigan and is meant to be worn open in the front. The cardigan can be customized in the length of the panels and the sleeves.
The cardigan pictured is a size Large and the model is 5’4” with a 40” bust.
GAUGE:
- 18 hdc X 15 rows (5 sc-rows, 10 hdc-rows) = 4 inches
It is recommended to work a gauge swatch to ensure your finished garment fits the way you want.
GAUGE SWATCH:
Foundation Row: Ch 32.
Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each st across. Turn. (30 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), hdc in same st at base of tch. *Ch 1, sk next st, hdc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st remains. Hdc in last st. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in same st at base of tch, 2 sc in ch-sp. 2 sc in each ch-sp across until one st remains. Sc in last st. Turn. (30 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), hdc in same st at base of tch. Hdc in next st and each st across. Turn. (30 sts)
Repeat Rows 2 – 4 to create a gauge swatch large enough to measure four inches WITHIN the gauge swatch, ending with a Row 4 repeat. If gauge is not met, adjust your hook size.
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch(s) – chain(s)
st(s) – stitch(es)
ch-sp – chain space
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
YO sl st BLO – yarn over slip stitch in BACK LOOP only
sl st – slip stitch
sl st BLO – slip stitch in the BACK LOOP only
tch – turning chain
PM – place marker
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
Special Stitches
Yarn Over Slip Stitch (YO sl st): YO, insert hook into intended stitch, YO, pull through stitch and loops on hook at once.
OVERALL PATTERN NOTES:
- Pattern is written in smallest size with larger sizes following in parentheses: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).
- The main stitch combination for this cardigan uses single crochet and half double crochet stitches and features a three-row repeat.
- This summerweight crochet cardigan is worked from the bottom up to create three panels for the main body (back panel and two front panels) that are then seamed together at the shoulders and sides. Panel length can be adjusted to your preferred length by adding or removing rows; make sure to end your panels on a Row 4 repeat.
- Ribbing is crocheted separately and added to the bottom hem of the cardigan after seaming that will add two inches to the overall length of the cardigan.
- After attaching the hem ribbing, you will turn your work and crochet a 1.5-inch width collar edging using the same stitch combination used for the hem ribbing; the first row of collar edging is crocheted into the ends of the panel rows.
- Short sleeves crocheted directly onto the arm openings in turned rounds and are finished with a single slip stitch round to slightly cinch in the ends of the sleeves. Length can be added to the sleeves by adding additional pattern repeats; make sure to end your sleeves on a Round 4 repeat before moving to the final slip stitch round.
- Ch 1 and Ch 2 do NOT count as stitches.
- It is recommended to place stitch markers on a right side (RS) row for each of your panels to easily distinguish right side and wrong side for placement for seaming. Don’t remove these markers until you are completely finished with the cardigan.
- Blocking your finished cardigan is not a requirement but can be useful in smoothing out stitches and improving the way the garment drapes your body. Blocking will not significantly increase the measurements given but will result in relaxing the fibers which creates slight differences in the overall fit.
BACK PANEL
Foundation Row: Ch 84 (92, 100, 110, 120) (128, 138, 146, 156).
Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 3rd chfrom hook and in each st across. Turn. [82 (90, 98, 108, 118) (126, 136, 144, 154) sts]
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, hdc in same st at base of tch, PM in this st. *Ch 1, sk next st, hdc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st remains. Hdc in last st. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st at base of tch, PM in this st. 2 sc in first ch-sp. 2 sc in each ch-sp across until one st remains. Sc in last st. Turn. [82 (90, 98, 108, 118) (126, 136, 144, 154) sts]
Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in same st at base of tch, PM in this st. Hdc in next st and each st across. Turn. [82 (90, 98, 108, 118) (126, 136, 144, 154) sts]
Rows 5 – 61 (64, 67, 70, 76) (79, 82, 88, 91): Repeat Row 2 – 4. Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.
Reference Photos – Back and Front Panels
Row 1 – Half double crochet in each chain across. 
The first stitch repeat is worked. 
Continue working the repeat (chain 1, skip next stitch, half double crochet in next stitch) across the row until one stitch remains. 
Row 2 is completed. 
Continuing across the row. 
At the end of Row 3, one stitch remains. Single crochet into the last stitch (as marked). 
Row 3 is completed. 
Row 4 – Half double crochet in each stitch across the row. 
Row 4 is completed. 
Repeat Rows 2-4 to create the back and front panels. Make sure to end your panels on a Row 4 repeat.
FRONT PANEL (make two)
Foundation Row: Ch 30 (34, 38, 42, 48) (52, 56, 60, 66).
Repeat Rows 1 – 4 as for back panel. [28 (32, 36, 40, 46) (50, 54, 58, 64) sts]
Rows 5 – 61 (64, 67, 70, 76) (79, 82, 88, 91): Repeat Row 2 – 4. Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.
SEAMING THE PANELS TOGETHER
Lay the back panel flat on your workspace with RS facing up and position the front panels on top with WS facing up. This means that the cardigan will be seamed together with the inside (WS) facing out.
Make sure to line up the stitches across the top of the cardigan; secure with stitch markers. Line up the sides of the sweater and pin, leaving 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) inches for the armholes. Make sure the rows are in line with each other from the back panel to the front panels. Try your cardigan on at this point to determine if the length of the panels and width of the arm opening is as desired. Adjustments should be made prior to seaming. If you have made adjustments to the armhole depth to achieve your desired sleeve size, please make sure to refer to the sleeve instructions that correlate to your preferred arm opening.
Using the yarn tails, seam across the shoulders with your preferred method of seaming. Join yarn at the armpit and seam down the side of the cardigan; repeat this for the other side. I used the mattress stitch for all components of this cardigan as this creates a smooth join.
Reference Photos – Seaming the Panels
Completed back panel. 
Completed front panels. 
Panels ready for seaming. 
Lay the back panel flat on your workspace with RS facing up and position the front panels on top with WS facing up. This means that the cardigan will be seamed together with the inside (WS) facing out. Use stitch markers to secure, leaving room for the armholes. 
Seam the panels together using your preferred seaming method; the mattress seam is pictured here.
Ribbing for the Hem
The ribbed hem is made separately and then attached to the bottom of the cardigan after the panels are seamed together. The height of the ribbing can be adjusted as preferred by adding chains to the foundation row and then following instructions as indicated.
Foundation Row: Ch 11.
Row 1: YO sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (10 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch here), YO sl st in both loops of first st. YO sl st BLO across ending with YO sl st in both loops of last st. Turn. (10 sts)
Repeat Row 2 until your ribbing length matches the circumference of the hem of your cardigan. Break yarn but do not fasten off, in the event you have to remove rows as you are seaming.
Seaming the ribbing to the hem:
Cut a length of yarn at least twice the length of the circumference of the hem. Turn your cardigan right side out and place flat on your work surface with the front panels facing up. Position the ribbing at the bottom of your cardigan and match up each end with the ends of the panels. Use stitch markers to secure the ribbing to the cardigan. It’s okay if the ends do not exactly match up; the ribbing tends to stretch a bit as you are seaming, hence the reason for not fastening off so that adjustments can be made. Join your yarn at the bottom corner where the ribbing meets the front panel that is to your left.
Using the mattress seam, attach the ribbing to the hem, making sure the ribbing is lying flat and not bunching up or causing the hem to pucker (I recommend doing this on a flat surface). Stop every so often to visually check and adjust as necessary. Seam all the way around the hem and back to the other panel. Once the ribbing has been completely seamed on to the hem, you may have extra rows. Remove these extra rows and fasten off the ribbing.
Reference Photos – Hem Ribbing
Ribbing is crocheted separately and then attached to the cardigan after seaming the panels. 
The ribbing features the yarn over slip stitch, worked into the back loop only (YO sl st BLO). 
Once your ribbing is the length of the cardigan hem, line up the ribbing at the bottom of the cardigan. 
Use stitch markers to secure the ribbing onto the cardigan. 
Seam the ribbing onto the cardigan using your preferred method; the mattress seam is pictured here and recommended for a smooth seam. 
Continue seaming around the hemline of the cardigan, making sure the ribbing lies flat and does not pucker or bunch. 
The ribbing tends to stretch a bit as you are seaming, hence the reason for not fastening off so that adjustments can be made. 
Once the ribbing has been completely seamed on to the hem, you may have extra rows. Remove these extra rows and fasten off the ribbing. 
Seaming is complete and the ribbing is attached to the cardigan.
COLLAR EDGING
Edging is added to the cardigan opening in turned rows. Overall stitch count is not important as long as stitches are crocheted evenly so the first row does not pucker or curl.
The total row count as written will create a collar width of 1.5 inches; this can be adjusted by adding or removing rows. If you are adding rows to widen your collar, please take into account the amount of width you are losing in your neck opening. I recommend trying on the cardigan as you add rows to make sure the fit is as desired.
Turn your cardigan inside out so that the wrong side faces out. With the cardigan lying flat and the front panels facing up, join yarn at the bottom corner of the front panel hem on your left side. Working from the bottom corner of the panel up towards the shoulder:
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, PM in this st. Sc evenly into the ends of the panel rows, sc into each stitch along the top of the back panel, and sc evenly into the row ends of the panel on the other side back to the bottom corner. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, YO sl st in both loops of first st, PM in this st. YO sl st BLO in each st ending with YO sl st in both loops of last st. Turn.
Rows 3 – 7: Repeat Row 2. Fasten off.
Reference Photos – Collar Edging
To begin the first row of the collar edging, join yarn at the bottom left corner of the cardigan. 
Evenly work single crochet stitches into the ends of the panels, working from the bottom towards the top of the cardigan. 
Make adjustments as needed to ensure the stitches are not bunching or puckering. 
Row 1 of the collar edging is completed. 
Row 2 – Yarn over slip stitch in the back loop only (YO sl st BLO) into each stitch around; this is the same stitch used for the hem ribbing. 
Continue working turned rows of YO sl st in BLO stitches to create the collar edging to your desired width. 
SLEEVES
Sleeves are crocheted onto the armholes in turned rounds that do not decrease. Sleeves are added to the cardigan with the garment facing right-side out. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch worked in each round to more easily keep your place and help with overall stitch count. You can easily add length to your sleeves by adding Round 2 – 4 repeats; make sure to end on a Round 4 repeat before the last slip stitch round.
FIRST SLEEVE
With the right side of the cardigan facing out and the front panels facing up on your work surface, join yarn at the armpit of the armhole to your right. Working up the FRONT PANEL:
Round 1: Ch 1, hdc in same st as join and PM in this st. Evenly work hdc sts into ends of the rows up the front panel towards the shoulder and down the back panel to the armpit. Sl st to marked st. Turn. [58 (64, 68, 72, 76) (82, 86, 90, 94) sts]
NOTE: If you have evenly placed your stitches, you should have 29 (32, 34, 36, 38) (41, 43, 45, 47) stitches when you reach the shoulder seam.
Round 2: Ch 2, hdc in same st at base of tch, PM in this st. *Ch 1, sk next st, hdc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st remains before marked st. Hdc in last st, sl st to marked st. Turn.
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same st at base of tch, PM in this st. 2 sc in first ch-sp. 2 sc in each ch-sp across until one st remains before marked st. Sc in last st, sl st to marked st. Turn. [58 (64, 68, 72, 76) (82, 86, 90, 94) sts]
Round 4: Ch 2, hdc in same st at base of tch, PM in this st. Hdc in next st and each st across. Sl st to marked st. Turn. [58 (64, 68, 72, 76) (82, 86, 90, 94) sts]
Rounds 5 – 7: Repeat Rounds 2 – 4. DO NOT TURN at the end of Round 7.
Round 8: Ch 1, sl st in same st at base of ch, PM in this st. Sl st BLO in next st and each st around back to marked st. Sl st to marked st and fasten off.
Reference Photos – First Sleeve
Join yarn at the armpit of the arm opening on your right side. 
Evenly work half double crochet stitches into the ends of the rows, keeping track of your stitches as you work around. 
Work half double crochet stitches around the arm opening back to the first stitch worked. 
Continue working stitch repeat (ch 1, skip next st, hdc in next st) around and back to the marked stitch. 
Slip stitch to the marked stitch to complete Round 2. 
Round 3 is worked as for the panel Row 3 repeat. 
Slip stich to the marked stitch to complete Round 3. 
Round 4 is completed as for the panel Row 4 repeat. 
Repeat Rounds 2-4. 
Do not turn after the last Round 4 repeat; slip stitch to the marked stitch to begin Round 8. 
Round 8 – Slip stitch in the back loop only (sl st BLO) in each stitch around, back to the marked stitch. 
Continue working sl st BLO in each stitch around. 
SECOND SLEEVE
With right side of the cardigan facing out, the front panels facing up and the finished first sleeve to your right, join yarn at the armpit of the armhole on your left side. Working up the BACK PANEL:
Round 1: Ch 1, hdc in same st as join and PM in this st. Evenly work hdc sts into ends of the rows up the back panel towards the shoulder and down the front panel to the armpit. Sl st to marked st. Turn. [58 (64, 68, 72, 76) (82, 86, 90, 94) sts]
Repeat Rounds 2 – 8 as for first sleeve. Fasten off. Weave in all your ends and you are ready to rock your handmade summerweight crochet cardigan!
Reference Photos – Second Sleeve
To begin the second sleeve, lay your cardigan flat so that the finished first sleeve is to your right. Join yarn at the armpit of the arm opening on your left. 
As for the first sleeve, evenly work half double crochet stitches into the ends of the rows, keeping track of your stitches as you work around. 
Work half double crochet stitches around the arm opening back to the first stitch worked. 
Repeat Rounds 2 through 8 as for the first sleeve. 
Both sleeves are completed. Weave in your ends, and enjoy wearing your handmade cardigan!
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