The Bookworm Cardigan – Comfy Crochet Cardigan

The Bookworm Cardigan is a relaxed, slouchy, and comfy crochet cardigan with a tweedy old-fashioned texture that evokes the smell of leather-bound books and the sound of turning pages. Perfect for any self-professed bookworm, this beginner-friendly cardigan is easy to wear for those long reading sessions on your couch at home or out and about running errands. Oversized pockets and a wide collar finish this long, slouchy cardigan for a stylish addition to your garment favorites!

Scroll down for the free crochet pattern for the Bookworm Cardigan and click here to PIN this for later!

Design + Inspiration: A Comfy Crochet Cardigan

The name for the Bookworm Cardigan came before any other design elements – it describes me perfectly and I wanted a garment that centered around the idea of curling up in a comfy chair with a book that you can’t stop reading. I wanted something slouchy and loose-fitting without being too oversized and clunky, and it had to have pockets. This cardigan came together exactly the way I had envisioned it! It’s roomy and comfortable with loads of texture. And construction of this comfy crochet cardigan is also super easy with basic stitches; being worked from the bottom up and splitting for the armholes and shoulders, it’s virtually all crocheted in one piece with minimal seaming.

The Perfect Yarn for a Slouchy Crochet Cardigan

Honestly, I had a hard time choosing yarn for this project, only because I had such a specific aesthetic I was trying to achieve. I wanted a highly textured yarn that created an old-fashioned and vintage feel, like that nubby and tattered sweater you always stole from your dad’s closet. And I was fixated on brown tones, but they had to be the right brown tones. There are so many different shades of brown! Finally, I landed on Wool of the Andes Tweed, a wool blend #4 worsted weight yarn by WeCrochet in the Farmhouse Heather colorway. It was exactly the tweedy look I was looking for in warm and rich brown tones, and it showcased the textured look of the alternating single and double crochet stitches that make up this comfy crochet cardigan.

Don’t love wool or tweed? This cardigan would look amazing in any worsted weight yarn, such as Heartland, Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling or Jeans by Lion Brand Yarn. Check out the Harvest Cardigan for a great example of Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling yarn, and take a look at the Copper Penny Pullover using Jeans yarn; both of these yarns are so soft!

Ready to get started on your comfy crochet cardigan?

Picture yourself in a dimly lit room in a leather chair with your feet propped up and a blanket in your lap, loaded bookshelves behind you, and warm lamplight illuminating the book in your hands. You have a cup of coffee on the side table with some scones on a delicate plate, maybe some freshly baked muffins. Maybe there’s a dog snoring in a basket by a roaring fire. The Bookworm Cardigan fits perfectly in this dream scenario – this comfy crochet cardigan actually fits into ANY scenario where there is a comfy seat and a few minutes to curl up and finish that next chapter! Scroll down for the free pattern for The Bookworm Cardigan to get started today, and visit my shops if you want the ad-free, printable PDF version. Happy crocheting and reading, friends!

Scroll down for the free crochet pattern for the Bookworm Cardigan and click here to PIN this for later!

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***This pattern was updated in December 2023 for better fit***

The Bookworm Cardigan – Free Pattern for a Comfy Crochet Cardigan

SKILL LEVEL:  Advanced Beginner

MATERIALS:

US Size I/9 5.50 mm crochet hook

US Size H/8 5.00 mm crochet hook

WeCrochet Wool of the Andes Tweed (Weight: #4/Worsted 80% Peruvian Highland Wood, 20% Donegal Tweed –110 yards/50 grams)

• Farmhouse Heather – 15 (16, 17, 18, 19) (20, 21, 22, 23) skeins; approximately 1650 (1760, 1870, 1980, 2090) (2200, 2310, 2420, 2530) yards.

Stitch Markers

Scissors

Yarn needle

Measuring Tape

SIZES:

	FITS CHEST*	FINISHED CHEST* (including collar)	LENGTH (from top of panels down to bottom hem)	FINISHED BACK WIDTH (shoulder to shoulder)	WIDTH OF EACH SHOULDER	TOTAL WIDTH OF CARDIGAN AT BOTTOM HEM (not including collar)	SLEEVE LENGTH (before adding ribbed cuff)	ARMHOLE DEPTH
XS	28-30”	34”	28”	18”	7”	32”	16”	7”
S	32-34”	38”	29”	20”	8”	36”	16.5”	7.5”
M	36-38”	42”	30”	22”	9”	40”	16.5”	8”
L	40-42”	46”	31”	24”	10”	44”	16.5”	8.5”
XL	44-46”	50”	32”	26”	11”	48”	15.75”	9”
2X	48-50”	54”	33”	28”	12”	52”	15.75”	9.5”
3X	52-54”	58”	34”	30”	13”	56”	15.75”	10”
4X	56-58”	62”	35”	32”	14”	60”	14.75”	10.5”
5X	60-62”	66”	36”	34”	15”	64”	14.75”	11”

*FITS CHEST refers to the measurement of the intended wearer.  FINISHED CHEST refers to the measurements of the finished garment. 

*This cardigan is intended to have a relaxed, slouchy fit with 4-6 inches of positive ease in the main body of the cardigan. 

*The model is wearing a size Medium and is 5’4” with a 38” bust. 

GAUGE:           14 stitches X 13 rows = 4 inches

Gauge Swatch:  With larger hook, ch 25.
Row 1:  Sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch.  *Sc in next ch, dc in next ch.* Repeat from * to * across; turn.  (24 sts)
Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in same st as base of tch, dc in next st.  *Sc in next st, dc in next st.*  Repeat from * to * across; turn.   (24 sts)
Repeat Row 2 until swatch is longer than 4 inches to accurately measure your gauge.  

ch(s) – chain(s)

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

hdc – half double crochet

hdc BLO – half double crochet BACK LOOP only

HBdc – Herringbone double crochet

HBdc BLO – Herringbone double crochet BACK LOOP only

sc2tog – single crochet two together (decrease)

dc2tog – double crochet two together (decrease)

sl st – slip stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

tch – turning chain

PM – place marker

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

YO – yarn over

OVERALL PATTERN NOTES:

• This comfy crochet cardigan is worked in one piece from the bottom up and splits at the armholes to create the front panels and central back panel.  The panels are then seamed together at the shoulders and sleeves are crocheted onto the armholes and worked in decreasing rounds.
• Ribbed cuffs are crocheted onto the ends of the sleeves at the wrists. 
• The cardigan is finished with a textured collar and pockets that are created separately and seamed in place. 
• Pattern is written in smallest size with larger sizes following in parentheses, as follows:  XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). 
• The main stitch used for this comfy crochet cardigan is called the Lemon Peel stitch and consists of alternating single and double crochet stitches across the row.  Subsequent rows are worked in the same fashion, with single crochets being worked on top of double crochets and double crochets being worked on top of single crochets from the row below.  Each row will always begin with a single crochet and end with a double crochet. 
• Turning Ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch.   
• Turning Ch 2 DOES count as a stitch. 
• Placing a stitch marker somewhere on the first RS row worked will help you keep track of the right and wrong sides of the cardigan.  Odd rows are RS rows, even rows are WS rows. 

Special Stitches

Herringbone Double Crochet (HBdc):  YO, insert hook into intended stitch.  YO, pull through the stitch AND first loop on the hook (two loops on the hook).  YO, pull through one loop, YO, pull through two loops. 

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog):  YO, insert hook into intended stitch.  YO, pull through the stitch (three loops on the hook), YO, pull through two loops (two loops on the hook).  YO, insert the hook into the next stitch, YO and pull through the stitch (four loops on the hook), YO and pull through two loops, YO and pull through last three loops.   

Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog):  Insert hook into intended stitch, YO, pull through the stitch (two loops on the hook).  Insert the hook into the next stitch, YO, pull through the stitch (three loops on the hook), YO and pull through all three loops.

MAIN BODY OF THE BOOKWORM CARDIGAN

Foundation Row:  With larger hook, ch 111 (127, 141, 157, 167) (183, 197, 213, 225)

Row 1 (RS):  Sc in 2^nd ch from hook, dc in next ch.  *Sc in next ch, dc in next ch.* Repeat from * to * across; turn.  [110 (126, 140, 156, 166) (182, 196, 212, 224) sts]

Row 2 (WS):  Ch 1, sc in same st as base of tch, dc in next st.  *Sc in next st, dc in next st.*  Repeat from * to * across; turn.   [110 (126, 140, 156, 166) (182, 196, 212, 224) sts]

Rows 3 – 68 (70, 72, 73, 75) (76, 78, 80, 81):  Repeat Row 2.  Do not fasten off. 

You will now begin to split for the shoulders, starting with the upper panel on the right. 

With the panel lying flat, count 24 (28, 32, 36, 38) (42, 46, 50, 52) sts in from each edge and place a stitch marker in the next stitch. Do this on both sides.

Row 69 (71, 73, 74, 76) (77, 79, 81, 82):  Ch 1, sc in same st as base of tch, dc in next st.  *Sc in next st, dc in next st.*  Repeat from * to * next marked st; turn.   [28 (30, 32, 34, 36) (38, 38, 40, 40) sts]

Row 70 (72, 74, 75, 77) (78, 80, 82, 83):  Ch 1, sc in same st as base of tch, dc in next st.  *Sc in next st, dc in next st.*  Repeat from * to * across; turn.   [24 (28, 32, 36, 38) (42, 46, 50, 52) sts]

Repeat the above until Row 91 (94, 98, 101, 104) (107, 110, 114, 117) is completed.  Fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming. 

You will now create the middle section, which will be the upper back panel.    

Laying your panel flat with the extended panel you just created on your right, join yarn at marked stitch. 

Row 69 (71, 73, 74, 76) (77, 79, 81, 82):  Ch 1, sc in same st as base of tch, dc in next st.  *Sc in next st, dc in next st.*  Repeat from * to * until second marked stitch is worked; turn.   [62 (70, 76, 84, 90) (98, 104, 112, 120) sts]

Row 70 (72, 74, 75, 77) (78, 80, 82, 83):  Ch 1, sc in same st as base of tch, dc in next st.  *Sc in next st, dc in next st.*  Repeat from * to * across; turn.   [62 (70, 76, 84, 90) (98, 104, 112, 120) sts]

Repeat the above until Row 91 (94, 98, 101, 104) (107, 110, 114, 117) is completed and fasten off.     

You will now create the upper panel on the left.      

Laying your panel flat with the extended panels you just created on your right, join yarn in next available marked stitch after back panel. 

Row 69 (71, 73, 74, 76) (77, 79, 81, 82):  Ch 1, sc in same st as base of tch, dc in next st.  *Sc in next st, dc in next st.*  Repeat from * to * across; turn.   [24 (28, 32, 36, 38) (42, 46, 50, 52) sts]

Repeat the above until Row 91 (94, 98, 101, 104) (107, 110, 114, 117) is completed.  Fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming. 

Shoulder Seaming

With the RS of the cardigan facing up, fold the upper right and left panels onto the upper back panel and line up the stitches.  Pin with stitch markers to keep in place and using the yarn tails, seam the shoulders with the mattress seam.  You should have 14 (14, 12, 12, 14) (14, 12, 12, 12) stitches remaining along the top of the back panel in between the shoulder panels. 

SLEEVES

• Sleeves are worked from the shoulders to wrists in turned rounds and cuff ribbing is crocheted onto the ends in turned rows. 
• The stitch count will decrease by two stitches for each decrease round worked, as indicated by the chart for your size. 
• Stitch markers are used at the beginning of each round to keep your place and are moved as each round is worked.  This will help with counting to ensure you have the correct number of stitches. 
• Decrease stitches are worked side by side rather than at the beginning and end of each round.  You will sc2tog immediately followed with dc2tog in order to maintain the (sc, dc) pattern across the round. 
• Each round will begin with a single crochet and end with a double crochet.  The first single crochet in each round will be worked into what is the double crochet from the row below. 
• The smaller 5mm hook is used to work the cuffs. 
• The Ch 1 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch. 

DECREASE ROUND:  Ch 1, sc in first st (not st at base of tch), PM in this st.  Dc in next st.  Sc2tog in next two sts, dc2tog in next two sts.  *Sc in next st, dc in next st.*  Repeat from * to * with last dc worked in same st as tch.  Sl st to marked st, turn. 

First Sleeve

Turn your cardigan inside out and lay your cardigan flat with the wrong side facing up.  With 5.50 mm hook, join yarn at the armpit of the sleeve on the right.

Round 1:  Working up the BACK side of the cardigan, ch 1. Sc in the same st at base of tch, PM in this stitch.  Dc in next st.  *Sc in next st, dc in next st.*  Repeat from * to * up the back of the armhole and down the front, evenly placing your stitches into the ends of the rows and ending with last dc worked in same st as tch.  Sl st to marked st, turn.  [50 (52, 56, 60, 64) (66, 70, 74, 78) sts]

Round 2:  Ch 1, sc in first st (not st at base of tch), PM in this st.  Dc in next st.   *Sc in next st, dc in next st.*  Repeat from * to * with last dc worked in same st as tch.  Sl st to marked st, turn.  [50 (52, 56, 60, 64) (66, 70, 74, 78) sts]

Rounds 3 – 52 (54, 54, 54, 51) (51, 51, 48, 48):  Repeat Round 2, working decrease rounds as indicated in the chart.  Do not fasten off, you will continue working the cuff ribbing. 

Cuff Ribbing – All Sizes

With 5.00 mm hook, ch 10. 

Row 1:  Hdc in 3^rd ch and in each ch. Sl st to next st of the wrist (not st at base of ch), sl st to next st; turn. (8 hdc)

Row 2:  Skip both sl sts in wrist.  Hdc in both loops of first hdc.  Hdc BLO in next 6 st, hdc in both loops of last st, turn.  (8 hdc)

Row 3:  Ch 2 (does count as st), hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc BLO in next 6 st, hdc in both loops of last st. Sl st to next st of the wrist (not st at base of row), sl st to next st; turn.  (8 hdc)

Repeat Rows 2 – 3 around the wrist until 2 stitches remain.  Sl st in last 2 st and fasten off leaving a tail for seaming. 

Seam the ends of the ribbing row together using the mattress seam. 

Second Sleeve

With the cardigan still wrong side out, lay your cardigan flat with the wrong side facing up.  With 5.50 mm hook, join yarn at the armpit of the sleeve on the left. 

Round 1:  Working up the FRONT side of the cardigan, ch 1. Sc in the same st at base of tch, PM in this stitch.  Dc in next st.  *Sc in next st, dc in next st.*  Repeat from * to * up the front of the armhole and down the back, evenly placing your stitches into the ends of the rows and ending with last dc worked in same st as tch.  Sl st to marked st, turn.  [50 (52, 56, 60, 64) (66, 70, 74, 78) sts]

Continue as per first sleeve instructions for Rounds 2 – 52 (54, 54, 54, 51) (51, 51, 48, 48) and for cuff ribbing. 

DECREASE ROUNDS

Size	Decrease Round #	Decrease Stitch Count	Size	Decrease Round #	Decrease Stitch Count
XS	5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 49	48 46 44 42 40 38 36 34 32 30	S	5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50	50 48 46 44 42 40 38 36 34 32
M	5 9 13 18 22 26 30 34 38 42 46 50	54 52 50 48 46 44 42 40 38 36 34 32	L	4 8 12 16 20 24 29 34 38 41 45 48 52	58 56 54 52 50 48 46 44 42 40 38 36 34
XL	4 7 10 13 16 19 23 27 31 35 38 41 44 47 50	62 60 58 56 54 52 50 48 46 44 42 40 38 36 34	2X	4 7 10 13 16 20 24 28 31 35 38 41 44 47 50	64 62 60 58 56 54 52 50 48 46 44 42 40 38 36
3X	4 7 10 13 16 19 22 25 28 31 34 37 40 43 46 48 50	68 66 64 62 60 58 56 54 52 50 48 46 44 42 40 38 36	4X	4 7 10 13 16 19 21 23 26 29 31 33 36 38 40 42 44 46	72 70 68 66 64 62 60 58 56 54 52 50 48 46 44 42 40 38
5X	3 6 8 10 12 14 16 19 22 24 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41	76 74 72 70 68 66 64 62 60 58 56 54 52 50 48 46 44 42

COLLAR

The collar is attached to the bottom corner of the Bookworm Cardigan and then worked up the side of the front panel, across the top of the back panel, and then down the side of the other front panel.  The collar adds an additional 2 inches to the width of the cardigan; working in turned rows, the collar can be widened as preferred. 

The total stitch count of the Herringbone Double Crochet is not important as long as the stitches are evenly spaced so that the collar does not pucker or curl.  Stop every few stitches to check your placement so you can make adjustments as you go. 

Turning your cardigan RS out and laying the cardigan flat, join yarn at the bottom right corner (what will be the left side of your cardigan when you are wearing it).  You are using the 5.5mm hook here and for the remainder of the pattern.

Foundation Row:  With larger hook, ch 2 (counts as a st here and throughout), HBdc evenly into ends of row up the front panel, HBdc into each st from the back panel, HBdc evenly into ends of row down the other front panel back to opposite corner; turn. 

Row 1:  Ch 2, HBdc BLO in 1^st st (not st at base of tch).  HBdc BLO in each stitch to the end of the row, ending with last HBdc in top of tch, turn. 

Rows 2 – 5:  Repeat Row 2.  Fasten off. 

Pockets – All Sizes (make 2)

**NOTE:  The pockets can be resized easily if you want them smaller or larger; chain the desired number of stitches and follow instructions as written.  The foundation chain should be an odd number and the final stitch count of your pocket will be in multiples of 2.   If you want the pockets to be deeper, continue working Row 2 until the desired length is reached before moving to the top edging rows. 

With larger hook, ch 27. 

Row 1:  Sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn.  (26 sts)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in same st as base of tch, dc in next st.  *Sc in next st, dc in next st.*  Repeat from * to * across, turn.  (26 sts)

Rows 3 – 20:  Repeat Row 2. 

Rows 21:  Ch 2, HBdc BLO in 1^st st (not st at base of tch).  HBdc BLO in each stitch to the end of the row, ending with last HBdc in top of tch, turn.  (26 sts)

Rows 22 – 25:  Repeat Row 21.  Fasten off leaving a long tail and seam the pockets onto your cardigan in your preferred spot. 

Weave in all your ends, and you are done! Enjoy your comfy crochet cardigan, and let me know how it turned out!

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The Bookworm Cardigan – click here to PIN this for later!