The Kismet Top is a lightweight crochet top featuring a distinctive chevron design, unique construction, and stunning hand-dyed sportweight yarn for incredible drape. Available in sizes XS to 5X, add this charming and whimsical lightweight crochet top to your summer wardrobe!
Scroll down for The Kismet Top free crochet pattern, and click HERE to pin this for later!
Summer Crocheting!
Here at the end of summer, you will find me inside in air-conditioned comfort, dreaming of cooler weather and everything autumn. Until then, it’s still summer and I do enjoy crocheting lightweight projects in the summer months. Summer sweaters and tops are at the top of my list for warm-weather projects. I am excited to add The Kismet Top to my lightweight crochet top collection!
Looking for other crochet summer projects? Check out the Clarity Top, the Marina Tote, and the Summer Crush Blanket!
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Design Notes for the Kismet Top
The Kismet Top is made from two identical panels that are crocheted in diagonal rows. There are three sections to each panel. First, the beginning increase section is created by working additional stitches into the beginning and end of each row to increase each row by two stitches. Following this is the middle section where the stitch count remains the same. Increase and decrease stitches are worked into the beginning or end of each row as indicated in the pattern. Lastly, the decrease section will close up your rectangle by working decrease stitches into the beginning and end of each row. The delicate stitches and mesh-like rows keep this crochet top lightweight and easy to wear!
Scroll down for The Kismet Top free crochet pattern, and click HERE to pin this for later!
Diagonal Crochet Details
Each panel of this lightweight crochet top makes up one-half of the width of the front and the back and the pattern is written to your preferred measurement rather than a specific number of rows and stitches. For instance, the top shown here is a size large, so I crocheted the increase section until my panel measured 12 inches. Once the two panels are put together side by side, this measures a total of 24 inches. The length of the top is measured along the long side of the panel until your preferred length is reached before moving on to the decrease section and finishing the panel.
The panels are seamed together down the middle of the front and back to create the fun and playful chevron design of this lightweight crochet top. Alternating mesh rows and an open v-neck in the front and back keep this design light and airy. Simple edging is added to the v-neck and sleeves for a polished look and stretchy ribbing at the hem gives you that squish factor.
Crocheting in diagonal rows can be tricky, and I found that the beginning and ending corners of my rectangle panels were a little wonky. However, this is easily corrected with some light steam blocking which is strongly recommended.
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The perfect yarn for a lightweight crochet top!
I chose a sportweight Superwash Merino yarn for a lightweight feel and drape for the ultimate comfort in the heat of the summer season. I used a variegated yarn for my project, but this lightweight crochet top would be stunning in alternating solid colors. The yarn featured in my Kismet Top is hand-dyed from Sewrella Yarn in the colorway Karma. This specific colorway is from last year’s Eras Collection and is no longer available, however, there are so many amazing indie yarn dyers out there with ready-to-ship products or new collection releases. Other options for this lightweight crochet top are Comfy Sport, Galileo and Shine Sport by WeCrochet, Cotton Fair by Premier Yarns and Millefiori Light and Carousel by Berroco.
Looking for more projects featuring hand-dyed yarn? Check out the Peachy Keen Shawl, the Deep Woods Scarf, and the Mood Swings Wrap!
Scroll down for The Kismet Top free crochet pattern, and click HERE to pin this for later!
The Kismet Top – A Lightweight Crochet Top
As a designer, this lightweight crochet top pushed me outside of my comfort zone! I wanted to challenge myself as a maker and designer with a unique garment that would do justice to the gorgeous hand-dyed yarn that I chose. I almost gave up on it several times, but I am so glad that I persevered because this has turned out to be one of my favorite ever designs. The skill level of the Kismet Lightweight Crochet Top pattern is intermediate due to the diagonal crochet rows and measuring style, but this would be a great project for an advanced beginner who is ready to test their skills and challenge themselves with something a little more intricate. I hope you enjoy making this fun and playful lightweight crochet summer top!
Scroll down for The Kismet Top free crochet pattern, and click HERE to pin this for later!
The Kismet Top – Lightweight Crochet Top
SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate
MATERIALS:
US Size H/5.00 mm crochet hook
US Size I/5.50 mm crochet hook
Sewrella Yarn hand-dyed yarn: #2/Sport Weight yarn – 100% Superwash Merino (328 yards/100 grams)
- Karma – 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9) skeins; approximately 984 (984, 1312, 1312, 1640) (1968, 2296, 2624, 2952) yards.
SIZES:
| FITS ACTUAL BUST* | FINISHED CHEST | WIDTH OF EACH DIAGONAL PANEL (short side of rectangle) | TOTAL WIDTH OF PANELS ONCE SEAMED (twice the width of each panel) | TOTAL LENGTH OF DIAGONAL PANELS (not including ribbing) | HEIGHT OF HEM RIBBING | ARMHOLE DEPTH | |
| XS | 28-30” | 36” | 9” | 18” | 38” | 1.5” | 6” |
| S | 32-34” | 40” | 10” | 20” | 40” | 1.5” | 6.5” |
| M | 36-38” | 44” | 11” | 22” | 41” | 1.5” | 7” |
| L | 40-42” | 48” | 12” | 24” | 42” | 1.5” | 7.5” |
| XL | 44-46” | 52” | 13” | 26” | 43” | 1.5” | 8” |
| 2X | 48-50” | 56” | 14” | 28” | 43” | 1.5” | 8.5” |
| 3X | 52-54” | 60” | 15” | 30” | 45” | 1.5” | 9” |
| 4X | 56-58” | 64” | 16” | 32” | 46” | 1.5” | 9.5” |
| 5X | 60-62” | 68” | 17” | 34” | 46” | 1.5” | 10” |
**FITS CHEST refers to the measurement of the intended wearer. FINISHED CHEST refers to the measurements of the finished garment (circumference of back panel and front panel once seamed together).
*This top is intended to have a relaxed and boxy fit with 6-8 inches of positive ease.
*The model is wearing a size Large and is 5’4” with a 40” bust.
GAUGE: 19 esc stitches X 17 rows (12 esc/5 dc rows) = 4 inches
**Gauge is provided but not crucial for this project, as you will be crocheting rows to a specific width and length as indicated.
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch(s) – chain(s)
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
esc – extended single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet two together (decrease)
dc2tog – double crochet two together (decrease)
YO sl st – yarn over slip stitch
BLO – back loop only
ch-sp – chain space
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
YO – yarn over
OVERALL PATTERN NOTES:
- Pattern is written in smallest size with larger sizes following in parentheses, as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).
- The top is worked in two rectangle panels consisting of diagonally crocheted rows. Each panel is worked in three sections:
- The increase section is worked first, increase stitches are worked into both the beginning and end of the row, increasing each row by 2 stitches.
- The middle section is then worked with an increase or decrease placed as indicated at the beginning and end of each row to maintain the same number of stitches.
- The decrease section is worked last with decrease stitches worked into both the beginning and end of each row, decreasing each row by 2 stitches.
- The pattern is written to measure rather than for a specific number of rows, meaning that you will crochet the increase section until the width indicated in the chart is reached for your size. The middle section is worked until the desired length is created before finishing the panel with the decrease section.
- As you are working on your first panel, it will be imperative to make notes of your final stitch count before moving on to the middle section. You will also make note of the number of rows crocheted in the increase section and the middle section so that you can duplicate that number of rows for the second panel.
Stitch markers can be used to mark the beginning and end of each row and to mark rows as you are crocheting.
- The long panels are folded to line up the short edges of the rectangle; the panels are then laid side by side and seamed down the middle to create a V-neck opening in the front and the back. You can easily adjust how deep you want these openings to be.
- The sleeve openings and front and back V-neck opening are finished with a single crochet round followed by a slip stitch round. The hem ribbing is created separately and seamed onto the bottom of the garment once the panels are seamed together.
- Ch 1 DOES count as a stitch.
- Turning Ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch.
- There is no right side or wrong side to the panels, however, the right side (the outside of your top when you are wearing it) is determined once the panels are laid out side by side prior to seaming and the rows are lined up to create the chevron.
- Blocking your finished panels BEFORE seaming is recommended to better shape the starting increase rows and ending decrease rows. I lightly steam blocked my panels before measuring the length as the edges tended to curl up on the decrease stitches.
- Please make sure to purchase enough yarn for your project if you are adding length to the panels or to the height of the ribbing.
Special Stitches
Extended Single Crochet (esc): Insert hook into the indicated stitch and pull up a loop. YO and pull through the first loop on your hook, YO and pull through both loops on your hook.
Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog): Insert hook into the indicated stitch and pull up a loop (2 loops on the hook). Insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook). YO and pull all three loops on your hook.
Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog): YO, insert hook into intended stitch, YO and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook). Next, YO and pull through two loops (two loops on the hook). YO, insert the hook into the next stitch, YO and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook). Lastly, YO and pull through two loops, YO and pull through the remaining three loops.
YO slip stitch (YO sl st): YO, insert hook into intended stitch and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook). Continue to pull through the last two loops on the hook.
PANELS (make two)
INCREASE SECTION: Each row will increase by two stitches.
Row 1: Ch 2, 3 dc in 2nd ch from hook. Turn. (3 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 esc in first st, esc in next st, 2 esc in last st. Turn. (5 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, 2 esc in first st, esc in each st across, 2 esc in last st. Turn. (7 sts)
Row 4: Repeat Row 3. (9 sts)
Double Crochet Row 5: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st. *Ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until two sts remain. Ch 1, sk next st, 2 dc in last st. Turn. (11 sts)
Esc in each ch-sp Row 6: Ch 2, 2 esc in first st, 2 esc in each ch-sp until two sts remain. Esc in next st, 2 esc in last st. Turn. (13 sts)
Extended Single Crochet Row 7: Ch 2, 2 esc in first st, esc in each st across, 2 esc in last st. Turn. (15 sts)
Repeat Rows 5 – 7 until width measures 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) (14, 15, 16, 17) inches.
What is your stitch count at this measurement? _____________________
What is your row count at this measurement? ____________________
Row 1 is completed. Make sure to place a stitch marker in the first stitch worked. 
Rows 1 through 4 are completed, continuing to work 2 esc in the first and last stitch. 
Row 5 (double crochet row) is completed. 
Row 6 (2 esc in each ch-sp row) is completed. 
Row 7 (extended single crochet row) is completed.
MIDDLE SECTION: Stitch count remains the same for each row.
If a row begins with an increase stitch (2 stitches worked into the same stitch), that row will end with a decrease stitch (sc2tog or dc2tog). If a row begins with a decrease stitch (sc2tog or dc2tog), that row will end with an increase stitch (2 stitches worked into the same stitch).
Depending on which row you ended the increase section on, you will begin the middle section as follows.
- If you ended on a Row 5 (double crochet row) repeat:
Row 1: Ch 2, 2 esc in first st, 2 esc in first ch-sp. 2 esc in each ch-sp across until two sts remain. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts. Esc in each st across ending with 2 esc in last st. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st. *Ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st*. Repeat from * to * until two sts remain. Dc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts, esc in next ch-sp. 2 esc in each ch-sp across until two sts remain. Esc in next st, 2 esc in last st. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 2, 2 esc in first st, esc in each st across until two sts remain. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 2, dc2tog in first two sts, dc in next st. *Ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until two sts remain. Ch 1, sk next st, 2 dc in last st. Turn.
Repeat Rows 1 – 6 until your panel measures 38 (40, 41, 42, 43) (43, 45, 46, 46) inches on the long side of the panel. (This is equal to the folded panel being 19 (20, 20.5, 21, 21.5) (21.5, 22.5, 23, 23) inches from the shoulder before adding the hem ribbing)
What is your row count at this measurement? ____________________
- If you ended on a Row 6 (ESC in each ch-sp row) repeat:
Row 1: Ch 2, 2 esc in first st, esc in each st across until two sts remain. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, dc2tog in first two sts, dc in next st. *Ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until two sts remain. Ch 1, sk next st, 2 dc in last st. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, 2 esc in first st, 2 esc in first ch-sp. 2 esc in each ch-sp across until two sts remain. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts. Esc in each st across ending with 2 esc in last st. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st. *Ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st*. Repeat from * to * until two sts remain. Dc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts, esc in next ch-sp. 2 esc in each ch-sp across until two sts remain. Esc in next st, 2 esc in last st. Turn.
Repeat Rows 1 – 6 until your panel measures 38 (40, 41, 42, 43) (43, 45, 46, 46) inches on the long side of the panel. (This is equal to the folded panel being 19 (20, 20.5, 21, 21.5) (21.5, 22.5, 23, 23) inches from the shoulder before adding the hem ribbing)
What is your row count at this measurement? ____________________
- If you ended on a Row 7 (extended single crochet row) repeat:
Row 1: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st. *Ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st*. Repeat from * to * until two sts remain. Dc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts, esc in next ch-sp. 2 esc in each ch-sp across until two sts remain. Esc in next st, 2 esc in last st. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, 2 esc in first st, esc in each st across until two sts remain. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 2, dc2tog in first two sts, dc in next st. *Ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until two sts remain. Ch 1, sk next st, 2 dc in last st. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 2, 2 esc in first st, 2 esc in first ch-sp. 2 esc in each ch-sp across until two sts remain. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts. Esc in each st across ending with 2 esc in last st. Turn.
Repeat Rows 1 – 6 until your panel measures 38 (40, 41, 42, 43) (43, 45, 46, 46) inches on the long side of the panel. (This is equal to the folded panel being 19 (20, 20.5, 21, 21.5) (21.5, 22.5, 23, 23) inches from the shoulder before adding the hem ribbing)
What is your row count at this measurement? ____________________
Work the increase section until your piece measures the width indicated for your size. 
Completion of this row. 
Continuation of this row, working 2 esc into each chain space. 
Completion of an “ESC in each ch-sp row” where 2 esc (incr) is worked into the last stitch. 
The beginning of an extended crochet row, where 2 esc (incr) are worked into the first stitch and sc2tog (decr) is worked into the last two stitches. 
Completion of an “extended single crochet row” where sc2tog (decr) is worked into last two stitches. 
Completion of a “double crochet row” where 2 esc (incr) is worked into the last stitch. 
Beginning of an “ESC in each ch-sp row” where 2 esc (incr) are worked into the first stitch. 2 esc are worked into each chain space across the row. 
The beginning of an “extended single crochet row” where sc2tog (decr) is worked into the first two stitches. 
The end of a “extended single crochet row” where 2 esc (incr) is worked into the last stitch. 
The completion of the first six row repeat for the middle section; the order of these rows will depend on which row you ended the increase section on.
DECREASE SECTION: Each row will decrease by two stitches.
Depending on which row you ended the middle section on, you will begin the decrease section as follows.
- If you ended on a double crochet row repeat:
Row 1: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts, esc in first ch-sp. 2 esc in each ch-sp across until two sts remain. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts. Esc in each st across until two sts remain. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc2tog in first two sts, dc in next st. *Ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until two sts remain. Dc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Repeat Rows 1 – 3 until your stitch count is 11 sts.
Repeat Row 2 three more times until your stitch count is 5 sts.
Next to last row: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts, esc in next st. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn. (3 sts)
Last row: Ch 2, dc2tog in next st and last st. Fasten off.
- If you ended on an ESC in each ch-sp row repeat:
Row 1: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts. Esc in each st across until two sts remain. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, dc2tog in first two sts, dc in next st. *Ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until two sts remain. Dc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts, esc in first ch-sp. 2 esc in each ch-sp across until two sts remain. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Repeat Rows 1 – 3 until your stitch count is 11 sts.
Repeat Row 1 three more times until your stitch count is 5 sts.
Next to last row: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts, esc in next st. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn. (3 sts)
Last row: Ch 2, dc2tog in next st and last st. Fasten off.
- If you ended on an extended single crochet row repeat:
Row 1: Ch 2, dc2tog in first two sts, dc in next st. *Ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until two sts remain. Dc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts, esc in first ch-sp. 2 esc in each ch-sp across until two sts remain. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts. Esc in each st across until two sts remain. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn.
Repeat Rows 1 – 3 until your stitch count is 11 sts.
Repeat Row 3 three more times until your stitch count is 5 sts.
Next to last row: Ch 2, sc2tog in first two sts, esc in next st. Sc2tog in last two sts. Turn. (3 sts)
Last row: Ch 2, dc2tog in next st and last st. Fasten off.
The beginning of an “extended single crochet row” you will sc2tog in the first two stitches. 
The “extended single crochet row” is completed. 
The beginning of a “double crochet row”, you will work dc2tog into the first two stitches. 
The double crochet row is completed. 
Beginning an “ESC in each ch-sp row”, you will sc2tog into the first two stitches and work one esc into the first chain space. Work 2 esc into each ch-sp across the row. 
The “ESC in each ch-sp row” is completed. 
Continue working decrease rows until 11 stitches remain. 
This is the next to last row. 
The last row is completed to close up the rectangle, fasten off yarn.
Seaming the Panels Together
You may wish to lightly steam block your panels before seaming your lightweight crochet top.
Lay your panels flat and fold them over so that the short edges meet each other; this will be the bottom hem of your top. Line up your edges and rows so that the diagonal design is clear and you have created a V on the front of your top. Lining up the double crochet rows is the easiest way to achieve this. The back of your lightweight crochet top will be an inverted V.
Using stitch markers, pin the edges together that create the middle seam down the front and likewise for the back, leaving room for the open V-neck. This can be adjusted as preferred once you try on your top. For my top, the front V was more open than the back V.
Try on your crochet top after pinning so that any adjustments to the neckline and armholes can be made before seaming!
Join yarn at the front hem and seam up the middle to the last marker placed at the V-neck; repeat likewise for the back. I used the mattress seam for this top to create a smooth finish. Once you are satisfied with your placement of the neckline, fasten off your yarn.
Line up the rows on the side and pin with stitch markers, leaving 6 (6.5, 7, 7.5, 8) (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10) inches for the armholes. Join yarn at the armpits and seam down the sides to the hem, again using the mattress seam.
Place a stitch marker somewhere on the front of your lightweight crochet top; this will now be the right side.
Adding the Collar at the Neckline
- The collar is worked by attaching yarn at the neckline and working stitches in rounds that do not turn.
- The total number of stitches is not specified as long as stitches are worked evenly into the ends of the rows so that the first round does not pucker or curl.
- Make sure to work the final round slip stitches with loose tension so the stitches do not pull too tightly.
With the top facing right side out and with the front facing up, join yarn at the point of the V on the front side and work a chain 1. Working up the LEFT side of the V that is facing you:
Round 1: Sc evenly into the ends of the rows to the V on the back, placing one sc into the place where the panels meet. Sc evenly into the ends of the rows back to the first stitch worked, do not turn.
Round 2: Sl st to first sc, sl st BLO in each st around and back to first st worked. Sl st to first st and fasten off.
Beginning Round 1, working single crochet stitches evenly into the ends of the rows. 
Continue working single crochet stitches along the front and back of the V-neck opening until you are back at the beginning of the round. 
Do not turn when Round 1 is completed, you will continue to work Round 2 after slip stitching to the first stitch. 
The slip stitch Round 2 is completed. 
V-neckline is completed.
Finishing Details for the Sleeves
- The sleeves are finished by attaching yarn at the armpit and working stitches in rounds that do not turn.
- The total number of stitches is not specified as long as stitches are worked evenly into the ends of the rows so that the first round does not pucker or curl.
- Make sure to work the final round slip stitches with loose tension so the stitches do not pull too tightly.
LEFT SLEEVE: With the top facing right side out and with the front facing up, join yarn at the armpit of the sleeve that is on the left side facing you and work a chain 1. Working up the BACK of the sleeve towards the shoulder:
Round 1: Sc evenly into the ends of the rows back to the first stitch worked, do not turn.
Round 2: Sl st to first sc, sl st BLO in each st around and back to first st worked. Sl st to first st and fasten off.
RIGHT SLEEVE: With the top facing right side out and with the front facing up, join yarn at the armpit of the sleeve that is on the right side facing you and work a chain 1. Working up the FRONT of the sleeve towards the shoulder, repeat Rounds 1 – 2 as for left sleeve.
Ribbing for the Hem
The ribbed hem is made separately and then seamed onto bottom of your lightweight crochet top. The height of the ribbing can be adjusted as preferred by adding chains to the foundation row and then following instructions as indicated.
Foundation Row: Using 5.5 mm crochet hook, ch 10.
Row 1: YO sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (9 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch here), YO sl st in both loops of first st. YO sl st BLO across ending with YO sl st in both loops of last st. Turn. (9 sts)
Repeat Row 2 until your ribbing length matches the circumference of the hem of your top. Break yarn but do not fasten off, in the event you have to remove rows as you are seaming.
Seaming the ribbing to the hem:
Cut a length of yarn at least twice the length of the circumference of the hem. With the right side still facing out and the front of your lightweight crochet top facing up, join yarn at the hem on the right side where the side seams end.
Using the mattress seam, attach the ribbing to the hem, making sure the ribbing is lying flat and not bunching up or causing the hem to pucker. You can adjust this as you seam. Seam all the way around the hem and back to where you started. If you have to remove rows before finishing, go ahead and fasten off the ribbing so it does not unravel.
Once the ribbing has been completely seamed onto the hem and the ends of the ribbing meet, line up the stitches and continue to use your yarn length to seam the ends of the ribbing together.
Fasten off, weave in all your ends, and you’re ready to rock your Kismet Top!
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