Crochet Hoodie – Harvest Hooded Sweater

Get ready for cozy fall vibes with the Harvest Hooded Sweater, an easy beginner-friendly crochet hoodie! This comfortable, relaxed-fit hooded sweater is perfect for your favorite cool-weather activities or snuggling indoors in front of the fire.

Want the ad-free PDF version of the Harvest Hooded Sweater?  Head to my ETSY or RAVELRY stores here! 

Inspiration for the Harvest Hooded Sweater

This crochet hoodie is the sister pattern of the Harvest Cardigan, an easy beginner-friendly cardigan pattern that’s free here on the blog. Both designs use the same stitch – half double crochet worked into the front loop – for the main panels and sleeves, and also feature textured ribbing at the hems and cuffs. It was simple to picture a pullover-style garment with a relaxed and comfy fit constructed in the same fashion as the cardigan. This is my first crochet hoodie design and it was a fun project to create! In addition, the hoodie is customizable for the length of the panels and sleeves and you can make the hood as tall or short and as wide as you like.

The sweater is made from two panels that are seamed together; the front panel has a few shaping rows to account for the hoodie that is later added. The sleeves are crocheted separately and then seamed onto the sweater and the hoodie is crocheted directly onto the neck opening. The best part of this handmade crochet hoodie is that the pattern eliminates the pointy end to the hood! The hood is worked in turned rows that increase to create the depth of the hood before continuing in rows that do not increase to create height. The hood is then split a few rows from the top so that a V is created; this is then seamed together and is what creates the curved part of the hood at the back. There are lots of photos in detail to guide you along the way. Simple!

Scroll down for the Harvest Hooded Sweater free crochet pattern and CLICK HERE to pin this for later!

The Perfect Yarn for a Crochet Hoodie

As can be seen in the original cardigan design, the Harvest Hooded Sweater uses a #4 worsted weight yarn for maximum coziness. I used Basic Stitch by Lion Brand for both designs, and I love how soft and easy this yarn is to work with. The solid color selection is extensive for this line of yarn, and there are even some variegated and tweed versions as well as heathered options. The best thing about Basic Stitch is that it stands up to multiple washing and is long-wearing without stretching out of shape, and it’s perfect for this crochet hoodie. There are so many wonderful worsted weight yarns out there, I can’t wait to see what colors and textures you come up with!

Want the ad-free PDF version of the Harvest Hooded Sweater?  Head to my ETSY or RAVELRY stores here! 

Get Started on the Harvest Hooded Sweater Today!

This crochet hoodie pattern works up quickly just in time for fall festivities, and you will be glad to have something easy-wearing to throw on during those cool fall nights watching football or roasting marshmallows over a campfire. Looking for more undeniably cozy patterns? Check out the Autumn Hues Striped Sweater or the Bookworm Cardigan!

Scroll down for the free crochet hoodie pattern or purchase the ad-free PDF versions from my ETSY or RAVELRY stores here. Happy stitching!

Scroll down for the Harvest Hooded Sweater free crochet pattern and CLICK HERE to pin this for later!

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The Harvest Hooded Sweater

Free Crochet Hoodie Pattern

SKILL LEVEL:  Advanced Beginner

MATERIALS:

US Size J/10 6.00 mm crochet hook

Lion Brand Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling (Weight: 4/Worsted 100% Acrylic – 185 yards/170 meters, 3.5 ounces/100 grams)

• Sage – 6 (7, 7, 8, 9) (10, 11, 12, 13) skeins; approximately 1110 (1295, 1295, 1480, 1665) (1850, 2035, 2220, 2405) yards.

Stitch Markers

Scissors

Yarn needle

Measuring Tape

SIZES:

	FITS CHEST	FINISHED CHEST	LENGTH OF FRONT AND BACK PANELS (including ribbing)	FINISHED BACK WIDTH (shoulder to shoulder)	ARMHOLE DEPTH	SLEEVE LENGTH (including ribbing)	RIBBING HEIGHT (front/back panels and sleeve cuffs)
XS	28-30”	32”	21”	16”	7”	18.5”	3”
S	32-34”	36”	22.5”	18”	7.5”	19”	3”
M	36-38”	40”	23”	20”	8”	19”	3”
L	40-42”	44”	24”	22”	8.5”	19”	3”
XL	44-46”	48”	24.75”	24”	9”	18.25”	3”
2X	48-50”	52”	25.5”	26”	9.5”	18.25”	3”
3X	52-54”	56”	25.5”	28”	10”	18.25”	3”
4X	56-58”	60”	26.25”	30”	10.5”	17.25”	3”
5X	60-62”	64”	26.25”	32”	11”	17.25”	3”

*FITS CHEST refers to the measurement of the intended wearer.  FINISHED CHEST refers to the measurements of the finished garment. 

*This crochet hoodie is intended to have a relaxed, comfortable fit with 4-6 inches of positive ease in the main panels of the sweater.  The sweater can be customized in the length of the sweater panels, sleeves and hood.

Make sure to purchase additional yarn if you are adding length.

The sweater pictured is a size Medium and the model is 5’10” with a 34” bust. 

GAUGE:          

• Main stitch (half double crochet in the front loop only) – 15 hdc stitches X 9 hdc rows = 4 inches
• Ribbing (half double crochet in the back loop only) – 9 hdc rows = 4 inches

ABBREVIATIONS: 

ch(s) – chain(s)

hdc – half double crochet

sc – single crochet

hdc BLO – half double crochet in BACK loop only

hdc FLO – half double crochet in FRONT loop only

hdc2tog – half double crochet two together (decrease)

sl st – slip stitch

tch – turning chain

st(s) – stitch(es)

PM – place marker

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

OVERALL PATTERN NOTES:

• Pattern is written in smallest size with larger sizes following in parentheses:  XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). 
• The crochet hoodie is worked in two panels for the main body that are then seamed together at the shoulders and sides. 
• Ribbing is crocheted first at the bottom hems of the panels and the sleeve cuffs and then turned horizontally to work half double crochet stitches across the ends of the rows.  Work the panels from the bottom up and work the sleeves from the cuffs to the armholes. 
• Sleeves are worked separately and seamed onto the armholes. 
• The front panel is worked as the back panel except for the last few rows for the neck opening. 
• Ch 2 and Ch 1 do NOT count as a stitch. 
• Place a stitch marker in the first right side (RS) row to help you determine the placement of the panels and sleeves before seaming.  Refer to the photos below for an example of a RS row vs. a WS row.
• If you are adding length to your crochet hoodie, make sure to end with an ODD numbered row for the back panel and make sure to adjust the front panel accordingly.  For example, if you are working the size L and want to add 6 rows, the back panel now ends at row 53.  The front panel for the size L is 4 rows less than the back panel; in order to account for the front panel shaping for that size, end your front panel at row 49. 
• If you are adding length to the sleeves, work the pattern as indicated until the last increase row and do not increase your stitch count for additional rows. 

Special Stitches

Half Double Crochet Two Together (hd2tog):  YO, insert hook into intended stitch.  YO, pull through the stitch (three loops on the hook).  Insert the hook into the next stitch, YO and pull through the stitch (four loops on the hook).  YO and pull through all four loops. 

MAIN PANELS OF THE SWEATER

Notes:  Crochet the ribbing first, and then turn the ribbing horizontally to work hdc sts across the ends of the rows to continue the panels from the bottom up. 

Back Panel

RIBBING

Foundation Row:  Ch 12. 

Row 1:  Hdc in 3^rd ch from hook and each across.  Turn.  (10 hdc sts)

Row 2:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc BLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn.  (10 hdc sts)

Rows 3 – 36 (41, 45, 50, 54) (59, 63, 68, 72):  Repeat Row 2.  Do not fasten off, continue using the same working yarn from the ribbing. 

Continuing the Panel

Turn the ribbing horizontally to work stitches into the ends of the rows.  Work approximately 5 hdc stitches for every 3 ribbing rows as per below:

• XS:  60 sts across 36 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows. 
• S:  68 sts across 41 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 3 hdc sts into last 2 rows. 
• M:  75 sts across 45 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows. 
• L:  83 sts across 50 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 3 hdc sts into last 2 rows. 
• XL:  90 sts across 54 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows.    
• 2X:  98 sts across 59 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 3 hdc sts into last 2 rows. 
• 3X:  105 sts across 63 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows.    
• 4X:  113 sts across 68 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 3 hdc sts into last 2 rows.      
• 5X:  120 sts across 72 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows.    

Row 1 (RS):  Ch 2, hdc across the ends of the ribbing row ends according to the instructions above. Turn.  [60 (68, 75, 83, 90) (98, 105, 113, 120) hdc sts]

Row 2 (WS):  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn.  [60 (68, 75, 83, 90) (98, 105, 113, 120) hdc sts]

Rows 3 – 41 (43, 45, 47, 49) (51, 51, 53, 53):  Repeat Row 2 and fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming. 

Reference Photos – Ribbing and Panels

Front Panel

Repeat back panel instructions for ribbing and panel until Row 39 (41, 43, 43, 45) (47, 45, 47, 47) is completed, turn.  Do not fasten off, you will now work shaping rows for the neck opening. 

Count 21 (22, 23, 25, 26) (27, 29, 30, 31) stitches from each side and place stitch marker into that stitch.    

Sizes XS, S, and M only:

Row 1:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of marked st.  Turn.  (21, 22, 23 hdc sts)

Row 2 (decrease):  Ch 1, hdc2tog in both loops of first 2 sts.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.  (20, 21, 22 hdc sts)

With crochet hoodie panel lying flat and completed right shoulder on your right side, join yarn at the stitch marker on the left.   

Row 1:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of marked st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn. (21, 22, 23 hdc sts)

Row 2 (decrease):  Ch 2, hdc in in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across until 2 sts remain.  Hdc2tog in both loops of last 2 sts.  Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. (20, 21, 22 hdc sts) 

Sizes L, XL and 2X only:

Row 1:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of marked st.  Turn.  (25, 26, 27 hdc sts)

Row 2 (decrease):  Ch 1, hdc2tog in both loops of first 2 sts.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn.  (24, 25, 26 hdc sts) 

Row 3:  Repeat Row 1, ending with last hdc worked in both loops of last st.  (24, 25, 26 hdc sts)

Row 4 (decrease):  Repeat Row 2.  Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.  (23, 24, 25 hdc sts) 

With crochet hoodie panel lying flat and completed right shoulder on your right side, join yarn at the stitch marker on the left.   

Row 1:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of marked st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn. (25, 26, 27 hdc sts)

Row 2 (decrease):  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across until 2 sts remain.  Hdc2tog in both loops of last 2 sts.  Turn.  (24, 25, 26 hdc sts) 

Row 3:  Repeat Row 1, ending with last hdc worked in both loops of last st.  (24, 25, 26 hdc sts)

Row 4 (decrease):  Repeat Row 2.  Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.  (23, 24, 25 hdc sts) 

Sizes 3X, 4X and 5X only:

Row 1:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of marked st.  Turn.  (29, 30, 31 hdc sts)

Row 2 (decrease):  Ch 1, hdc2tog in both loops of first 2 sts.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn.  (28, 29, 30 hdc sts)

Row 3:  Repeat Row 1, ending with last hdc worked in both loops of last st.  (28, 29, 30 hdc sts)   

Row 4 (decrease):  Repeat Row 2.  (27, 28, 29 hdc sts) 

Row 5:  Repeat Row 1, ending with last hdc worked in both loops of last st.  (27, 28, 29 hdc sts)

Row 6 (decrease):  Repeat Row 2.  Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.  (26, 27, 28 hdc sts)

With crochet hoodie panel lying flat and completed right shoulder on your right side, join yarn at the stitch marker on the left.   

Row 1:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of marked st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn. (29, 30, 31 hdc sts)

Row 2 (decrease):  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across until 2 sts remain.  Hdc2tog in both loops of last 2 sts.  Turn.  (28, 29, 30 hdc sts). 

Row 3:  Repeat Row 1, ending with last hdc worked in both loops of last st.  (28, 29, 30 hdc sts). 

Row 4 (decrease):  Repeat Row 2.  (27, 28, 29 hdc sts) 

Row 5:  Repeat Row 1, ending with last hdc worked in both loops of last st.  (27, 28, 29 hdc sts)

Row 6 (decrease):  Repeat Row 2.  Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.  (26, 27, 28 hdc sts)

Reference Photos – Front Panel Shaping

SLEEVES (make 2)

Sleeves for the crochet hoodie are worked flat in turned rows from the wrist to the shoulder and then seamed onto the armholes. Use the same yarn tail to secure the armpit and continue seaming down the inside of the sleeve to the cuffs.  Rows increase by 2 stitches as indicated in the chart below. 

Notes:  Crochet the ribbing first, and then turn the ribbing horizontally to work hdc sts across the ends of the rows to continue the panels from the bottom up. 

RIBBING

Foundation Row:  Ch 12. 

Row 1:  Hdc in 3^rd ch from hook and each across.  Turn.  (10 hdc sts)

Row 2:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc BLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn.  (10 hdc sts)

Rows 3-17 (18, 19, 21, 22) (23, 24, 25, 26):  Repeat Row 2.  Do not fasten off, continue using the same working yarn from the ribbing. 

Continuing the Sleeve

Turn the ribbing horizontally to work stitches into the ends of the rows.  Work approximately 5 hdc stitches for every 3 ribbing rows as per below:

• XS:  28 sts across 17 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working 3 hdc sts into last 2 rows. 
• S:  30 sts across 18 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows. 
• M:  32 sts across 19 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working 2 hdc sts into last row
• L:  34 sts across 21 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working 4 hdc sts into last 3 rows
• XL:  36 sts across 22 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last hdc st into last row
• 2X:  38 sts across 23 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working 3 hdc sts into last 2 rows
• 3X:  40 sts across 24 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows
• 4X:  42 sts across 25 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working 2 hdc sts into last row
• 5X:  43 sts across 26 rows – 5 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working 3 hdc sts into last 2 rows

Place a stitch marker in the first right side (RS) row to help you determine the placement of the panels and sleeves before seaming.

Row 1 (RS):  Ch 2, hdc across the ends of the ribbing row ends according to the instructions above. Turn.  [28 (30, 32, 34, 36) (38, 40, 42, 43) hdc sts]

Row 2 (increase) (WS):  Ch 2, 2 hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with 2 hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn.  [30 (32, 34, 36, 38) (40, 42, 44, 45) hdc sts]

Row 3 (RS):  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc worked in both loops of last st.  Turn.  [30 (32, 34, 36, 38) (40, 42, 44, 45) hdc sts]

Rows 4 – 35 (36, 36, 36, 34) (34, 34, 32, 32):  Repeat Row 3 working increase rows (Row 2 repeat) as indicated below.  Fasten sleeve off, leaving a yarn tail long enough to seam the sleeve around the armhole and down the inside of the sleeve to the cuff.    

INCREASE ROWS

Size	Increase Row #	Increase Stitch Count		Size	Increase Row #	Increase Stitch Count		Size	Increase Row #	Increase Stitch Count
XS	2 5 9 12 15 17 19 21 24 27 30 33	30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52		S	2 5 8 11 14 16 18 20 23 26 29 32 35	32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56		M	2 5 7 10 13 15 17 19 21 24 27 30 33 35	34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60
L	2 4 7 10 13 15 17 19 21 23 26 29 31 33 35	36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64		XL	2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 31 33	38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68		2X	2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33	40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72
3X	2 4 6 8 10 12 14 15 17 18 20 21 23 25 27 29 31 33	42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76		4X	2 4 6 8 10 11 13 14 16 17 19 20 22 23 25 26 28 29 31	44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80		5X	2 4 5 7 8 10 11 13 14 16 17 19 20 22 23 25 26 28 29 31	45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59 61 63 65 67 69 71 73 75 77 79 81 83

Reference Photos – Sleeves

SEAMING THE PANELS AND SLEEVES

PANELS

Lay the back panel flat with RS facing up and position the front panel on top with WS facing up.  You will be seaming the crochet hoodie together with the wrong sides facing out, essentially working with the sweater inside out. Line up the stitches across the top of the sweater and pin.  Using the yarn tails, seam the shoulders. 

Line up the sides of the sweater and pin, leaving 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9) (9.5, 10, 10.5, 11) inches for the armholes.  The ridged rows will allow you to visually make sure the rows are lining up and the ridges are matched up from the back panel to the front panel.   Join yarn at the armpits and seam down the sides of the crochet hoodie, ending where the ribbed cuff begins and leaving the hem split if desired. 

I used the whip stitch to seam the panels and sleeves. 

SLEEVES

Repeat for both sleeves:

Lay the sleeves flat with RS facing up and fold the sleeve over in order to line up the ridged rows.  WS is now facing up; pin the sleeve together down the inner seam to hold in place.  Attach the sleeve to the armhole with stitch markers. 

Using the long yarn tail and beginning at the crochet hoodie armpit, seam the sleeves to the armhole.  From the armpit, continue seaming down the inside of the sleeve to the cuffs and fasten off. 

THE SWEATER HOOD

• The hood is crocheted directly onto the neck opening by joining yarn at the specified stitch and working in turned rows. 
• The hood expands out from the neck opening with alternating increase rows that increase stitch count by two.  This creates the length of the top part of the hood that rests on your head when seamed together. 
• The remainder of the hood is worked in rows that do not increase until the desired height is achieved.  The last rows of the hood split into decrease rows in order to eliminate the pointy end to the hood. 
• Finished the crochet hoodie with two rounds of single crochet to clean up the edges. 
• The foundation row is worked from the marked stitch in the middle of the front panel and into the ends of the shaping rows on the left, across the back panel and into the ends of the shaping rows on the right, and back to the other marked stitch.  Some sizes will have a space in between the marked stitches, and some will not.    
• The overall stitch count is not important for the first row, as long as your stitches do not pucker or bunch.  Generally, your stitch count should be a total of the remaining stitches from the front panel opening, the back panel opening and approximately three stitches worked into the ends of every two shaping rows depending on size.   

The size of the hood can be customized for width and for height depending on preference. The instructions below are written for a hood that measures 15 inches from the first to last row. 

With the crochet hoodie wrong side out and lying flat with front panel facing up, count 9 (12, 14, 16, 19) (22, 23, 26, 29) stitches in from each side of the front panel, beginning with the first stitch after the shaping row, and place stitch marker into that stitch.  Sizes M, L, 3X and 4X will have one stitch left between stitch markers; sizes XS, S, XL, 2X and 5X will not. 

Join yarn at the stitch marker on the left, ch 1. 

Row 1:  Hdc in both loops of marked st.  Hdc FLO in each st and ends of front panel shaping rows until other stitch marker is reached.  Hdc in both loops of marked st.  Turn. 

Row 2:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next and each st across, ending with hdc worked in both loops of last st.  Turn. 

(Increase) Row 3:  Ch 2, 2 hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with 2 hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn.  Total stitch count has increased by two. 

Rows 4 – 19:  Repeat Rows 2 and 3. 

At this point, do a visual check of the width of the hood opening by folding the corners in together to create the top of the hood that will be seamed.  Continue to repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the desired width is achieved; otherwise, move on to the next section where you will be adding more height to the hood. 

The below instructions are for a hood that measures 15 inches; before moving on to the split row section, work fewer Row 2 repeats if you want less height and work more Row 2 repeats if you want more height for your crochet hoodie.

Rows 20 – 28:  Repeat Row 2.  Do not fasten off, you will now begin to split the rows to finish the hood. 

Reference Photos – Beginning the Hood

Splitting for the top of the hood

Fold in the top of the hood so that the corners meet and place a stitch marker in the middle where the hood folds.  Each row in this section is a decrease row and as a result, will decrease by one stitch. 

First side of the hood

Row 1:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across until one st and marked st remains.  Hdc2tog in both loops of last 2 sts.  Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 1, hdc2tog in both loops of first 2 sts.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc worked in both loops of last st.  Turn. 

Row 3:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next and each st across until 2 sts remain.  Hdc2tog in both loops of last 2 sts.  Turn. 

Rows 4 – 5:  Repeat Rows 2 and 3. 

Row 6:  Repeat Row 2.  Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. 

Second side of the hood

With sweater lying flat and completed split rows on your right, join yarn at the marked stitch. 

Row 1:  Ch 1, hdc2tog in both loops of marked st and next st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc worked in both loops of last st.  Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across until 2 sts remain.  Hdc2tog in both loops of last 2 sts.  Turn.

Row 3:  Ch 1, hdc2tog in both loops of first 2 sts.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc worked in both loops of last st. Turn.

Rows 4 – 5:  Repeat Rows 2 and 3. 

Row 6:  Repeat Row 2.  Fasten off (you will not use this yarn tail for seaming).  

Seaming the top of the hood

With the crochet hoodie lying flat and the front panel facing you, fold the corners in together and secure with stitch markers.  Pin across the top seam of the hood and down the slight angle at the back of the hood that was created with the split rows, making sure to line up the stitches. 

With the long yarn tail, seam the two sides together to form the top of the hood.  I use the whip stitch for this seaming.  You will now work the last rounds of single crochet edging for additional detailing of the crochet hoodie. 

Reference Photos – Splitting the Top Rows

Hood Edging

Still working with the crochet hoodie wrong side out and the front panel facing you, join yarn either in the unmarked stitch between the two stitch markers placed when the first row of the hood was worked (sizes M, L, 3X and 4X) or in either of the marked stitches if there is not a stitch between (sizes XS, S, XL, 2X and 5X). 

Round 1:  Ch 1, sc in marked st.  Working up the right facing side of the hood in the direction of the top, sc evenly into the ends of the rows back around to the first st worked.  Do not turn, and do not chain. 

Round 2:  Sc in first st worked from first round and PM in this st.  Sc in each st around back to marked st.  Sl st into marked st.  Fasten off. 

Reference Photos – Hood Edging

FRONT POCKET

• The front pocket is crocheted separately from the main body of the sweater in turned rows that decrease to create an angled pocket.  The pocket is then seamed onto the front of the crochet hoodie. 
• The size of the pocket can be customized as desired; the measurements below are specific to each size, but you can make your pocket as big or small as you like. 
• Each decrease row (Row 5 repeat) will decrease the total stitch count for that row by two stitches. 

The bottom of the crochet hoodie pocket measures 10 (11.5, 13, 14.5, 16.5) (18.5, 21, 22.5, 24) inches. 

Foundation Row:  Ch 40 (45, 50, 56, 64) (71, 80, 86, 92).

Row 1:  Hdc in 3^rd ch from hook and each ch across.  Turn.  [38 (43, 48, 54, 62) (69, 78, 84, 90) hdc sts]

Row 2:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with last hdc worked into both loops of last st. Turn.  [38 (43, 48, 54, 62) (69, 78, 84, 90) hdc sts]

Rows 3 – 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) – Repeat Row 2. 

Begin decrease rows to finish the top of the crochet hoodie pocket.

(Decrease) Row 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) (10, 10, 11, 11):  Ch 2, hdc2tog in both loops of first 2 sts.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across until 2 sts remain.  Hdc2tog in both loops of last 2 sts.  Turn.  [36 (41, 46, 52, 60) (67, 76, 82, 88) hdc sts]

Row 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) (11, 11, 12, 12):  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of first st.  Hdc FLO in next st and each st across, ending with last hdc worked into both loops of last st.  Turn.  [36 (41, 46, 52, 60) (67, 76, 82, 88) hdc sts]

Repeat the above two rows until 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) (21, 21, 22, 22) rows are completed.  [26 (31, 36, 42, 50) (57, 66, 72, 78) hdc sts] 

Do not turn and do not fasten off, you will now work a final round of single crochet edging to complete the crochet hoodie pocket. 

With your working yarn, ch 1.   Work sc evenly into ends of rows and in each stitch around pocket to first st worked.  Sl st to first st worked and fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. 

Total stitch count is not important here, as long as single crochet sts are worked evenly so that the crochet hoodie pocket does not curl or pucker. 

Reference Photos – Front Pocket

Attaching the crochet hoodie pocket

Turn your crochet hoodie right side out for pocket placement. 

Place your pocket so that it is evenly spaced in the middle of the front panel of the hooded sweater; there is no right side or wrong side to the pocket but you may prefer the look of one side or the other.   

The bottom of the pocket is positioned approximately one row up from the ribbing in the sample size, however, you can customize the placement of your pocket as preferred.  Pin the pocket into place on your hooded sweater and use your yarn tail to sew the top row of the pocket to the sweater and fasten off. 

Join yarn on either side of the pocket at the corner where the decrease rows begin.  Sew down the sides of the pocket away from the decrease rows, across the bottom row and back up the side to the other corner where decrease rows begin. Fasten off; the crochet hoodie pocket will have openings on the angled decrease rows. 

Weave in all your ends and enjoy wearing your crochet hoodie! 

Want the ad-free PDF version of the Harvest Hooded Sweater?  Head to my ETSY or RAVELRY stores here!