The Fireflies Cardigan is the perfect transitional garment to take you from season to season in style! With open stitches and shorter sleeves, this beginner-friendly simple crochet cardigan works up quickly with easy stitches and a no-fuss construction.
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Fireflies: The Poster Bug of Summer
When I see lightning bugs in the backyard, I always associate them with the end of summer. I feel like the tail-end of summer should be a separate season all on its own! While it may be in the 90s here and it seems like it will never cool down, there are signs of impending autumn everywhere. All of a sudden, school is back in session, and preseason football is on TV. Marketing campaigns are aggressively showing all things pumpkin spice to us. It’s such a tease!
While it’s too hot to do anything outside, the air conditioning is still going strong on the inside – so you need layered pieces that are transitional garments. Indeed, the Fireflies Cardigan is perfect for that! With sleeve lengths halfway between short and long and open stitch work, this simple crochet cardigan is undeniably just what you need to take you into the next season.
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Crochet Cardigan Inspiration
This simple crochet cardigan was meant to be released much earlier in the summer and my original vision was a bright white cardigan. In particular, I wanted something really simple and easy to wear with open lacy stitches in lightweight cotton. However, the other designs and creative processes in my head were too loud to ignore. I decided to push this one back to the end of summer, so bright white yarn didn’t feel right anymore. Luckily I had quite a bit of Pima Cotton in my stash. On this occasion, a warm muted cream seemed much more suited to late August!
A Simple Crochet Cardigan Design
The Fireflies Cardigan features worsted-weight cotton yarn with an open and airy feel and four inches of positive ease for comfortable wearing. To begin with, you will crochet the cardigan in three panels and seam them together at the shoulders and down the sides. Then, crochet the sleeves separately and attach them to the armholes. There is no shaping to the sleeves, which means no decreasing stitches! Finally, you finish the ends of the sleeves with a simple round of single crochet and slip stitches that cinch the cuffs in and this is my favorite feature of this simple crochet cardigan. And it’s mostly double crochet, so easy!
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Yarn Talk!
Pima Cotton by Lion Brand is one of my favorite 100% cotton yarns! It’s so soft and easy to work with and you can throw your projects into the wash with all your other laundry. Because it’s lightweight cotton, it’s perfect for transitioning into cooler weather but still light enough to wear in these last few weeks of summer. I love crocheting with cotton yarn, but this simple crochet cardigan pattern works great with any worsted weight yarn so don’t hesitate to dig into your yarn statsh! Without a doubt, I am already thinking of making another Fireflies Cardigan in the Spice colorway.
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Simple Crochet Cardigan – The Fireflies Cardigan
In summary, there are so many options for this simple crochet cardigan! Choose from solid colors or variegated yarn, neutral tones, or rich, deep fall colors. In any case, I can’t wait to see how you have made your Fireflies Cardigan your own! And if you are looking for more cardigan inspiration, I’ve got you! Check out The Harvest Cardigan and The Bookworm Cardigan for more!
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***This pattern was updated in December 2023 for better fit***
The Fireflies Cardigan – Free Pattern for a Simple Crochet Cardigan
SKILL LEVEL: Advanced Beginner
MATERIALS:
US Size I/9 5.5 mm crochet hook
Lion Brand Pima Cotton: #4/Worsted 100% Pima Cotton – 186 yards / 170 meters, 3.5 ounces / 100 grams
- Vintage – 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) (8, 9, 10, 11) skeins; approximately 930 (1116, 1116, 1302, 1302) (1408, 1674, 1860, 2046) yards
SIZES:
| FITS CHEST* | FINISHED CHEST (including collar)* | LENGTH (PANELS DOWN TO BOTTOM)** | FINISHED BACK WIDTH (shoulder to shoulder) | ARMHOLE DEPTH | SLEEVE LENGTH | |
| XS | 28-30” | 31” | 21” | 16” | 6.5” | 8” |
| S | 32-34” | 35” | 22” | 18” | 7” | 8.5” |
| M | 36-38” | 39” | 23” | 20” | 7.5” | 9” |
| L | 40-42” | 43” | 24” | 22” | 8” | 9” |
| XL | 44-46” | 47” | 25” | 24” | 8.5” | 8.25” |
| 2X | 48-50” | 51” | 26” | 26” | 9” | 8.25” |
| 3X | 52-54” | 55” | 26” | 28” | 9.5” | 8.25” |
| 4X | 56-58” | 59” | 27” | 30” | 10” | 7.5” |
| 5X | 60-62” | 63” | 27” | 32” | 10.5” | 7.5” |
*FITS CHEST refers to the measurement of the intended wearer. FINISHED CHEST refers to the measurements of the finished garment (back panel plus both front panels and collar).
*This cardigan is intended to have a relaxed and open fit with 3-4 inches of positive ease in the main body of the cardigan.
**The length of the back and front panels can be lengthened or shortened as needed for fit by adding or removing rows, and sleeve length can be adjusted as preferred.
**Make sure to purchase enough yarn if you are adding rows or lengthening the sleeves.
GAUGE: 12 dc stitches X 8 dc rows = 4 inches
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch(s) – chain(s)
st(s) – stitch(es)
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc –double crochet
dc cluster – two double crochets worked into the same stitch
BLO – back loop only
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
tch – turning chain
WS – wrong side
RS – right side
PM – place marker
OVERALL PATTERN NOTES:
- Pattern is written in smallest size with larger sizes following in parentheses: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).
- Work the cardigan from the bottom up in three panels – one panel for the back and two identical panels for the front – then seam the panels together at the shoulders and sides.
- Work the sleeves separately from the cuff up and attach them to the armholes; there are no decreases or shaping of the sleeves for an open look.
- Finish the cardigan with a simple crocheted collar worked in turned single crochet rows and detail the sleeves at the cuffs with simple rounds of single crochet and slip stitch.
- The cardigan is worked with a single row repeat of double crochets that are worked into the same stitch or space. In effect, the double crochet clusters offset each other, with each cluster worked into the space between the cluster from the row below.
- Ch 3 does count as a stitch. Ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch.
- I recommend placing a stitch marker somewhere on a right-side row (Row 3 repeat) to assist in laying out the panels for seaming.
- Work the foundation chains for the panels with a loose tension to prevent curling at the bottom of your cardigan.
BACK PANEL
Foundation Row: Ch 50 (56, 62, 68, 74) (80, 86, 92, 98)
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped chs count as dc). Hdc in each ch across. Turn. [48 (54, 60, 66, 72) (78, 84, 90, 96) hdc sts]
(WS) Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in next st. *Sk next st, 2 dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * across until two sts remain. Sk next st, dc in last st. Turn. [48 (54, 60, 66, 72) (78, 84, 90, 96) dc sts]
(RS) Row 3: Ch 3, dc into space between tch and first dc. *Sk next 2 sts, 2 dc in space between clusters from row below*. Repeat from * to * until 2 sts and tch remain. Sk 2 sts, 2 dc in tch. Turn. [48 (54, 60, 66, 72) (78, 84, 90, 96) dc sts]
(WS) Row 4: Ch 3, sk next st, 2 dc in space between clusters from row below. *Sk 2 sts, 2 dc in space between clusters from row below*. Repeat from * to * until one st and tch remain. Sk last st, dc in tch. Turn. [48 (54, 60, 66, 72) (78, 84, 90, 96) dc sts]
Row 5 – 42 (44, 46, 48, 50) (52, 52, 54, 54): Repeat Rows 3 and 4. Fasten off.
Reference photos for Row 3 and Row 4 repeat:
Beginning chain three of Row 3. 
Work first double crochet in the first space after the chain. 
Coming to the end of Row 3, with two stitches and turning chain left. 
Skip the last two stitches and work two double crochets into the turning chain. 
Row 3 completed! 
Beginning chain three of Row 4. 
Skip the first two stitches and work two double crochets into the space between the clusters. 
Coming to the end of Row 4, you will have one stitch and the turning chain left. 
Skip the last stitch and work last double crochet into the turning chain. 
Row 4 completed!
FRONT PANELS (make 2)
Foundation Row: Ch 22 (24, 26, 30, 32) (36, 38, 42, 44)
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped chs count as dc). Hdc in each ch across. Turn. [20 (22, 24, 28, 30) (34, 36, 40, 42) hdc sts]
(WS) Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in next st. *Sk next st, 2 dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * across until two sts remain. Sk next st, dc in last st. Turn. [20 (22, 24, 28, 30) (34, 36, 40, 42) dc sts]
Row 3 – 42 (44, 46, 48, 50) (52, 52, 54, 54): Repeat the instructions as for the Back panel, repeating Rows 3 and 4.
SEAMING THE PANELS TOGETHER
Lay the back panel flat with RS facing up and place the front panels on top with WS facing up. Using stitch markers, place stitch markers across the top of the shoulders. Make sure to line up the stitches to pin the shoulders at the seams. You will have 12 (10, 12, 10, 12) (10, 12, 10, 12) stitches remaining at the top of the back panel after seaming the front panels on.
Measure approximately 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) inches down from the shoulder. Place a stitch marker to pin the sides together at this measurement. Place stitch markers from the armpit down the sides, making sure to line up the double crochet rows.
Try your cardigan on at this point to determine if you want to add length and to ensure the fit is as desired.
Using the yarn tail, seam the shoulders with your preferred seaming method and fasten off. I used the whip stitch for my sample. Attach yarn at the armpits and seam down the sides of the cardigan.
SLEEVES (make 2)
- The sleeves are meant to be open and boxy, to end just past the bend of the arm, with no shaping/decrease stitches.
- Work the sleeves separately from the cuffs and attach them to the armhole. Adjust the sleeves if desired by continuing to repeat Row 3 or 4 until you achieve the desired length.
- I recommend placing a stitch marker somewhere on a right-side row (Row 3 repeat) to assist in laying out the panels for seaming.
- After fastening off, leave a long yarn tail at least twice the circumference of the armhole plus the length of the sleeve from the armpit. Use this long yarn tail to both attach the sleeve to the armhole and seam down the inside of the arm, with the same piece of yarn.
- Finish the sleeves with a simple single crochet round that does not turn followed by a slip stitch round to add detail to the cuffs and naturally draw in the arm opening a little tighter.
Foundation Row: Ch 42 (44, 46, 50, 54) (56, 60, 62, 66)
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped chs count as dc). Hdc in each ch across. Turn. [40 (42, 44, 48, 52) (54, 58, 60, 64) hdc sts]
(WS) Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in next st. *Sk next st, 2 dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * across until two sts remain. Sk next st, dc in last st. Turn. [40 (42, 44, 48, 52) (54, 58, 60, 64) dc sts]
(RS) Row 3: Ch 3, dc into space between tch and first dc. *Sk next 2 sts, 2 dc in space between clusters from row below*. Repeat from * to * until 2 sts and tch remain. Sk 2 sts, 2 dc in tch. Turn. [40 (42, 44, 48, 52) (54, 58, 60, 64) dc sts]
(WS) Row 4: Ch 3, sk next st, 2 dc in space between clusters from row below. *Sk 2 sts, 2 dc in space between clusters from row below*. Repeat from * to * until one st and tch remain. Sk last st, dc in tch. Turn. [40 (42, 44, 48, 52) (54, 58, 60, 64) hdc sts]
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until 16 (17, 18, 18, 16) (16, 16, 15, 15) rows are completed. Sizes S, 4X and 5X will end with a Row 3 repeat.
*Here is where you will want to stop and try on the cardigan with the sleeves pinned on to determine if additional rows need to be added/removed for your preferred fit. Pin your unfinished sleeve together down the inside of the arm and pin to the armhole with your stitch markers.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming at least twice the circumference of the armhole plus the length of the sleeve from the armpit.
ATTACHING THE SLEEVES TO THE CARDIGAN
Lay the sleeves with RS facing up and fold them over so that WS is showing and place stitch markers down the length of the arm. With the cardigan still inside out (wrong side facing out), pin the sleeve to the armhole at the opening.
Using the long yarn tail, seam the sleeve to the armhole starting at the armpit and seaming around the armhole back to the armpit. Continue seaming down the inside of the sleeve to the cuff. I used the whip stitch to seam my sample.
Repeat for the other sleeve.
SLEEVE EDGING
After the sleeves are attached to the cardigan, work a simple single crochet round followed by a slip stitch round to finish the sleeve cuffs. Work around the end of the sleeve with the cardigan lying flat and the front panels facing up.
With cardigan still inside out (wrong side facing out), join yarn at the cuff where the seams meet. Working away from the seam and towards the shoulder:
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in same st as ch, PM in this st. Sc in each st around the edge of the cuff back to marked st. Sl st in marked st, do not turn.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as ch, PM in this st. Sl st BLO in next st and each st around back to marked st, sl st in marked st and fasten off.
Repeat the instructions above for the other sleeve.
Working the first round of single crochet onto the end (cuff) of the sleeve. The wrong side is facing out. 
The wrong side of the sleeve is facing out and the first round of stitches are worked on the inside of the cuff. 
The last stitch of Round 1 is worked and you will slip stitch into the first stitch worked and continue to Round 2 without turning. 
Round 2, slip stitches are worked into the back loop only as indicated by the needle. 
Continuing Round 2 of slip stitches. 
Completed sleeve cuff!
COLLAR EDGING
The collar is worked in turned rows by attaching yarn to the bottom corner of the cardigan and then working up the side of the front panel, across the top of the back panel, and then down the side of the other panel.
You will evenly work single crochets into the edge of each row end so that there is no puckering (too few stitches) or rippling (too many stitches) around the collar of your cardigan. This is approximately two single crochets for every double crochet row.
Although chain 1 does not count as a stitch, the total stitch count for the edging is not important so long as you are working the single crochets evenly.
Still working with your cardigan inside out and laying the cardigan flat, join yarn at the bottom right corner (what will be the right side of your cardigan when you are wearing it).
Row 1: Ch 1, evenly work sc along the edges of front panel (towards the shoulders of the cardigan), across the top of back panel and down other front panel. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same st. Sc in each st across. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st. *Sk next st, 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until other end of collar is reached. If you have 2 sts left, sk next st, sc in last st. If you have one st left, sc in last st. Fasten off.
Reference Photos for Collar Edging
With the cardigan lying flat with wrong side facing up, join yarn at the bottom right corner. r 
Row 1 of the collar, working single crochet stitches evenly into the ends of the rows. 
Working two single crochet stitches for every double crochet row. 
Row 3 of the collar, working two single crochet stitches into the same stitch. 
Completed Row 3 of the collar edging. 
Completed collar!
Weave in all your ends! Enjoy wearing your Fireflies Cardigan all year long!
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Why on the larger sizes of the firefly cardigan are there not enough stitches on the back to leave room for neck stitches? Ex: back 68 and fronts (38) x 2 = 76.
The smaller sizes are fine, but your larger sizes aren’t. I didn’t realize they wouldn’t work until I started to put them together.
Like the pattern, but don’t know if I have to redo the back or make the fronts narrower.
Hi Elizabeth! You are correct, those front panel numbers don’t work at all. The back panel stitch counts and measurements are correct, the front panels needed to be adjusted to account for the neck opening. I am SO sorry about that mistake, all the math checked out which is probably why my tech editor did not catch that. The pattern has been adjusted to correct the front panels, apologies that you will have to work those again! Let me know if you run into any other issues, feel free to email me at admin@masonjaryarndesigns.com and thank you so much for bringing this to my attention!