The Golden Days Hobo Bag is that perfect accessory that straddles the line between summer and fall, featuring warm colors and glorious texture. This crochet hobo bag can be made in two sizes and can be customized with fabric lining. It’s a design that’s in season all the time!
Scroll down for the free crochet pattern for the Golden Days Hobo Bag and click here to PIN this for later!
These golden days . . .
The golden days of summer are melding into the golden days of early fall, and I am HERE FOR IT. It’s been gorgeous here in central North Carolina the last week or so, and while the temperatures are still pretty warm in the afternoons, there’s finally a hint of cooler weather in those 64-degree mornings. I’m still wearing all my summer clothes while simultaneously working on sweaters and scarves and cardigans and buying up all fall-themed hand-dyed yarn I can get my hands on. The Golden Days crochet hobo bag lives firmly in both seasons, reminding me of summer and fall, and the warm tones of the yarn make this bag a bag for all seasons!
The Inspiration . . .
The inspiration for this crochet hobo bag came from the color of this Pima Cotton yarn from Lion Brand Yarn. As soon as I saw it, I knew I wanted to make a bag using Mineral Yellow; it was so sunny and cheerful and this color has been trending, and I immediately thought it would be great for an end-of-summer-yay-to-fall project. Yellow is a difficult color and one that you either love or hate, and I tend to be drawn to warm and deeper mustard tones of yellow rather than bright lemony tones. About halfway through the first bag, I ended up taking the entire thing apart and remaking it, and that’s when I had the idea to make a second one in a smaller size! Pima Cotton in Spice was the obvious choice, they really complement each other and now this pattern is written for two bag sizes!
The Yarn . . .
Pima Cotton is a #4 worsted weight 100% cotton yarn that is so soft and easy to work with and produces amazing stitch definition. It was the perfect choice for this crochet hobo bag as 100% cotton yarn or cotton blends make great choices for bags and items that are worn and used a lot, like bags or dishcloths that need to retain their shape and hold up after many washes. I love working with cotton yarn, and there are some great choices out there; I also like Dishie by WeCrochet, and that yarn line comes in a ton of colors.
The Design . . .
I love the look of a hobo bag, with its deep and roomy compartments and wide straps. This crochet hobo bag starts with a rectangular bottom that is worked traditionally from side to side before beginning turned rounds to create the body of the bag. The even berry stitch creates that glorious texture on the outside of the bag and is a fun and easy stitch to work. The straps are crocheted in turned rows from one side of the bag that are then seamed to the other side, giving the hobo bag that signature look while creating stronger straps. And finally, lining your bag with fabric is the ultimate way to customize your finished project and helps to keep the bag from stretching out. I got my fabric at Joann’s, they have an amazing selection. And you don’t need a sewing machine to add lining to your bag! Check out the Skyline Diagonal Crochet Tote Bag here on the blog for another great bag to make with lining.
It was a happy accident that led to the creation of two sizes for this crochet hobo bag and I am so excited to see this vision come to life with this pattern! The large bag is useful as a project bag and holds several skeins of yarn (that’s what I used in my photo shoot to make my bags look full) and the smaller size works great as an everyday purse. And the straps are long enough to wear as a cross-body! I love these bags and I hope you enjoy making and wearing them, happy crocheting friends!
Scroll down for the free crochet pattern for the Golden Days Hobo Bag and click here to PIN this for later!
GOLDEN DAYS CROCHET HOBO BAG – Free Crochet Pattern
SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate
MATERIALS:
Lion Brand Pima Cotton (Weight: 4/Worsted 100% Cotton – 186 yards/170m, 3.5oz/100g)
- Mineral Yellow (large bag size): 4 skeins (approximately 744 yards)
- Spice (small bag size): 3 skeins (approximately 558 yards)
For optional Fabric Lining:
Fabric of your choice that measures longer and wider than the finished body of your bag
Embroidery thread, in a color matching the yarn
GAUGE:
18 single crochet X 21 rows = 4 inches
Finished Bags – measuring the body lying flat from side to side and bottom to top:
- Small – approximately 14 inches from side to side and 9 inches from top of bag to first turned round.
- Large – approximately 16 inches from side to side and 9.5 inches from top of bag to first turned round.
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch(s) – chain(s)
st(s) – stitch(es)
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
sc2tog – single crochet two together (decrease)
FLO – front loop only
tch – turning chain
PM – place marker
YO – yarn over
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
Special Stitches:
Even Berry Stitch: YO, insert hook into the indicated stitch and pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook). YO, pull through one loop (3 loops on the hook), YO, insert hook into the same stitch, pull up a loop (5 loops on the hook), YO, pull through all 5 loops on the hook. The Even Berry stitch is worked by alternating this berry stitch with single crochet stitches along the row.
Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog): Insert hook into the indicated stitch and pull up a loop (2 loops on the hook). YO and insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook). YO and pull through all three loops on your hook.
PATTERN NOTES:
- Pattern is written indicating the small size bag first with the large size bag in parentheses as [S (L)].
- Beginning ch 1 DOES NOT count as a stitch.
- The bag is made in three sections: the rectangular bottom, the body of the of bag and the straps.
- The bottom is made in traditional rows to create the rectangular base.
- The body of the bag is worked in turned rounds continuing from the base.
- The straps are crocheted onto the bag and are worked in turned rows.
- It is recommended to place a stitch marker in the first single crochet worked in every turned round to better determine where to place the slip stitch that will be joining the round.
- The bag is finished with a simple single crochet border that is worked into the ends of the rows of the straps.
- Optional fabric lining can be added to the bag, instructions and photos are included for sewing; this can be done by hand and does not require sewing experience.
THE PATTERN:
THE BASE OF THE BAG
Ch 38 (46).
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. Turn. [37 (45)]
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same st (st at base of tch). Sc in each st across until end, turn. [37 (45)]
Rows 3 – 15: Repeat Row 2. [37 (45)]
Row 16: Ch 1, sc in same st (st at base of tch) and each st across until last st remains. 2sc in last st, PM in last st. [38 (46)]
Do not turn, do not fasten off. You will continue to the body of the bag by working single crochets into the ends of the rows, along the first row (beginning chain row) and back up the ends of the rows on the other side to join to the first stitch worked.
Foundation Round:
- Continuing from the base, sc into the end of each row. This is approximately one single crochet per row, for 14 sc. Work 2 sc into the end of the last row. [54 (62)] total sc.
- Working along the first row worked in the rectangular base (beginning chain row), sc in each st to the end. Work 2 sc into the last st. [92 (108)] total sc.
- Working up the other end of the rows from the base, sc into the end of each row. This is approximately one single crochet per row, for 14 sc. Work 2 sc in the last row. [108 (124)] total sc.
- Sl st to 1st stitch (marked stitch) from the beginning of the round, turn. [108 (124)]
The finished rectangular bottom. 
Working two single crochet stitches into the last stitch, the marker is placed in the last stitch worked. 
Turn your work so that you are now crocheting into the ends of the rows. The yarn needle indicates where to place the first single crochet. 
Working single crochet stitches into each row until the last row is reached. 
The needle indicates where to work the two single crochets to complete this section. 
Two single crochets worked into the last stitch, the marker being placed into the last stitch. 
Turning again to work along the beginning chain row. 
The needle indicates where to work the two single crochet stitches, placing a marker in the last stitch. 
The needle indicates where to start working the single crochet stitches along the row ends. 
The foundation round has now been worked back to the beginning. 
The needle indicates where to work the last two single crochet stitches. 
The needle indicates where to slip stitch to join the round.
MAIN BODY OF THE BAG
Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in FLO of 1st st from tch (NOT stitch at base of tch), PM in this st. Sc in FLO of each st around to marked st. Sl st to marked st, turn. [108 (124)]
Round 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in both loops of 1st st from tch (NOT stitch at base of tch), PM in this st. Sc in both loops of each st around to marked stitch. Sl st to marked st, turn. [108 (124)]
Round 3 (RS): Ch 1, sc in 1st st from tch (NOT stitch at base of tch), PM in this st. Sc in each st around to marked st. Sl st to marked st, turn. [108 (124)]
Rounds 4 – 11: Repeat Round 3, ending with a RS row.
Round 12 (WS): Ch 1, sc in 1st st from tch (NOT st at base of tch), PM in this st. *Even berry st in next st, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * back to beginning of round. Sl st to marked st, turn. [108 (124)]
Round 13 (RS): Ch 1, sc in 1st st from tch (NOT st at base of tch), PM in this st. Sc in each st around to marked st. Sl st to marked st, turn. [108 (124)]
Continuing as per sizing follows:
- SMALL BAG:
Rounds 14 – 33: Repeat Rounds 12 and 13. [108 (124)]
Rounds 34 – 43: Repeat Round 13, ending on a RS row. After working last round, sl st to marked st and fasten off, leaving the stitch marker in place from the previous round. Continue to strap instructions below. [108 (124)]
- LARGE BAG:
Rounds 14 – 35: Repeat Rounds 12 and 13. [108 (124)]
Rounds 36 – 45: Repeat Round 13, ending on a RS row. After working last round, sl st to marked st and fasten off, leaving the stitch marker in place from the previous round. Continue to strap instructions below. [108 (124)]
After the foundation row is worked, you will work one round in the front loop only, further defining the bottom of the bag. 
Working the second round back to the beginning stitch, the last stitch worked is shown here in addition to the marked stitch indicating where the round will be joined with a slip stitch. 
After joinng the round and chaining one, shown here is where the first stitch in the next row will be worked. 
Per the previous slide, this is NOT the stitch at the base of the turning chain, and is indicated as “1st st” in the pattern. 
This round has been joined with a slip stitch and a chain worked, turning to begin the next round (the marker will be moved to the next round). The needle indicates where the first stitch will be worked. 
Working several stitches and moving the stitch marker to the first stitch worked, in order to keep track of the round and to know better where to place the slip stitch to join the round. 
The progression of the single crochet rounds. 
The first berry stitch round, showing the texture on the RS (outside) of the bag. 
The progression of the several rounds of berry stitches, which are worked on the WS (inside) of the bag. 
All rows completed before moving on to the straps!
STRAPS
General Notes for working the Straps – PLEASE READ IN FULL BEFORE BEGINNING:
- Stitch markers are placed to indicate where the straps will be crocheted or seamed onto the bag, indicating the small size bag first with the large size bag in parentheses as [S (L)].
- The stitch markers are placed by counting from stitch where the last round was joined, so be sure to leave those markers in place until the strap is worked.
- The straps are worked in three sections:
- DECREASE: The straps are worked by joining yarn at the specified stitch and crocheting turned rows that are decreased per the pattern. You will start the first row with the outside of the bag facing you, but the first row worked will be a WS row. SEE PHOTO.
- STITCH COUNT IS MAINTAINED: The middle part of the strap is then worked in turned rows, maintaining the same stitch count for the number of rows specified.
- INCREASE: The strap is finished by working turned rows that are increased per the pattern so that the stitch count at the end of the strap is identical to the stitch count of the strap that was crocheted directly onto the top of the bag.
- The end of the strap is seamed onto the other side of the bag where indicated by the stitch markers.
With RS (what will be the outside/textured side) of bag facing you and working from RIGHT to LEFT, place stitch markers as follows:
- SMALL: Counting from the from stitch where the last round was joined, PM in stitches 5/32/59/86.
- LARGE: Counting from the from stitch where the last round was joined, PM in stitches 6/37/68/99.
You will now begin working the end of the strap that is crocheted directly onto the top of the bag. With RS (outside) facing you and going from RIGHT to LEFT from where the last round was joined (should still be marked), join yarn at the 3rd stitch marker placed, or the marker placed at stitch (59 (68)]. SEE PHOTOS
DECREASE ROWS:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in same st as joined st. Sc in each st across to marked st, working last sc in marked st, turn. [28 (32)]
Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc2tog in 1st two st, sc in each st across until 2 st remain. Sc2tog in last two st, turn. [26 (30)]
Row 3 (WS): Ch 1, sc in 1st st (st at base of tch) and each st across, turn. [26 (30)]
Rows 4 – 19 (23): Repeat Rows 2 and 3, decreasing every other row until last row count is 10 st.
MIDDLE ROWS:
Rows 20 (24) – 150 (146): Ch 1, sc in 1st st (st at base of tch) and each st across, turn. 10 (10)
INCREASE ROWS:
Row 151 (147): Ch 1, 2 sc in 1st st (st at base of tch) and each st across ending with 2 sc in last st. Turn [12 (12)]
Row 152 (148): Ch 1, sc in 1st st (st at base of tch) and each st across, turn. [12 (12)]
Rows 153 (149) – 168 (172): Repeat Rows 151 (147) and 152 (148), increasing every other row until last row count is [28 (32)]. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.
With the right side facing up, stitch markers are placed where indicated in the pattern before beginning the straps. 
Here, the needle indicates where to start counting to place your stitch markers. This is where the last round was joined and fastened off. The needle indicates the first stitch and counting from right to left, the first marker is placed in the 6th stitch. 
This photo shows you where you will join your yarn , at the third marker from the joining round (indicated with the needle). The first strap row is worked from the wrong side (inside). 
The first row of the strap that is worked directly onto the bag, this row is a WS row. 
Continuing to work decrease rows every other row, this photo shows a decrease row where stitches are crocheted together (sc2tog) in the last two stitches. 
Continuing to work decrease rows. The rows will decrease by two stitches every other row. 
All decrease rows are worked, ending with 10 stitches for both bag sizes. 
Additional length for the straps is now worked by turned rows that maintain the 10 stitch count. 
The first increase row is worked by placing two single crochets into the first stitch and the last stitch, increasing this row by two stitches. 
This is the row worked after the first increase row, which maintains the 12 stitch count from the previous increase row. The remaining rows are increased by two stitches every other round to mirror the strap at the other end of the bag. 
All increase rows are complete, and you should have the same stitch count from the beginning of the strap at the other end [28 (32)]. You ready to seam the strap to the bag!
Seaming the strap to the bag:
With RS (outside) of the bag facing you, attach the corners of the strap to the markers previously placed to indicate where the strap should go. Line up your stitches and place markers in the stitches to hold the strap in place (the stitches should line up exactly from stitch marker to stitch marker across).
Using your long yarn tail, seam the strap onto the bag by inserting your yarn needle into both loops of the stitches and working from top down. SEE PHOTOS. Continue in this way in each stitch, seaming from the top stitch to the bottom stitch and pulling tight as you go. Fasten off at the other end and you have seamed your straps to your bag!
Making sure not to twist the strap and with the bag lying right side facing, pin the corners to the markers on the bag. The stitches should line up with the markers. 
Use your yarn tail to begin seaming from the right side where the maker is placed. 
Insert your needle from top to bottom to work this seam, much like a whip stitch. 
Pull the yarn tight every few passes. 
The seam should be flat and not puckered and should be fairly hidden on the outside of the bag. 
Your straps are done! Lets work the border to finish it off.
STRAP BORDER
Instructions for both sizes:
With the bag facing RS up, join yarn at right strap corner, where the strap meets the top row of the bag.
Ch 1, work sl st in the 1st st and in each st across the top. Work one sc into the opposite corner where the strap begins. Sc into the ends of the rows all the way up and back down to the other corner. This will be approximately one sc placed in the end of each row. Sl st to the 1st st worked and fasten off.
Repeat for the other side.
With the bag lying flat and right side facing up, join yarn at the right corner where the strap meets the top of the bag. 
Working slip stitches along the top stitches of the bag. 
Working single crochet stitches up the strap, with approximately one single crochet per row. 
Continuing to work single crochets into the ends of the rows. 
You will join the border back to the first stitch, indicated here, with a slip stitch.
Weave in all your ends and you are done! Optional instructions for adding a fabric lining to your finished crochet hobo bag are below.
Purchase the PDF digital download version from my Etsy shop here!
Purchase the PDF digital download version from my Ravelry shop here!
ADDING FABRIC LINING TO YOUR CROCHET HOBO BAG
General Notes:
- It is recommended that you take your finished handmade bag with you when you purchase your fabric so you can lay it flat to determine the correct length and width to be cut.
- In addition, the thread used to sew the lining should be a close match to the color of your bag. I used embroidery thread for a slightly thicker and more secure hold as I am hand-sewing the lining instead of machine sewing.
- Your fabric piece should measure more than twice the length of your finished bag and should be cut in one long piece. The width should be at least 2 inches wider on each side than your crochet bag laid flat.
- If your chosen fabric has a print, the lining will be stitched with the print facing in. The top hem is folded down and the sides are sewn together first before sewing the fabric to the crochet hobo bag.
To begin, fold your cut length of fabric in half lengthwise and lay on a flat surface with the pattern facing in. Lay your bag on top of the fabric with the bottom of the bag lined up flush with the folded bottom of the fabric. There should be at least two inches of fabric on each side of your hobo bag. Then fold the top of the fabric down to create the hem and pin in place; you will make this fold at the top of the bag just below the last row of single crochet worked. Next you will you will trim any excess fabric.
Pin the hem to the bag to hold it in place and pin the sides of the fabric together from the folded hem to the bottom; you will place your pins right next to the sides of the bag, being careful not to pin the fabric to the crochet bag itself.
Once the sides are pinned together, carefully flip the bag over and repeat the process of folding down the hem on the other side and trimming any excess. Make sure your second folded hem is lined up exactly with the first hem and the top row of single crochet and pin the hem to hold it in place.
Remove the fabric from the bag, and you are ready begin sewing the sides. You can place pins across the hem to keep it folded down while you work.
Cut a length of thread at least three times longer than the length of the lining and thread your needle. Starting from the top of the lining where the hem is folded down, insert your needle and work stitches from right to left down. Insert your needle just to the left of the previous stitch, pull the thread through and insert the needle back into the fabric to the edge of the stitch just created. Continue in this fashion to the bottom of the lining and tie off. Repeat for the other side and trim any excess thread. Trim the edges of the fabric as well to remove any excess.
Sewing the top hem of the lining
Insert your lining inside your crochet hobo bag and push the corners in to adjust until the lining is lying flat. Laying your bag flat and making sure to smooth out the lining and line up the hems, pin the tops of the hems to the bag to hold in place.
First, cut a length of thread at least three times longer than the circumference of the crochet tote bag and thread your needle. Starting at one of the seams and working from right to left, move your needle in and out of JUST THE INSIDE HEM of the fabric. Now, insert your needle into the yarn of your bag where the stitch you just worked was started and move through the yarn just as far as that stitch in the fabric. You are matching the length of the stitch worked into the fabric.
Then, insert your needle back into the fabric where the thread from the previous stitch ended and move your needle along JUST THE INSIDE HEM of the fabric and back out. Again, insert your needle into the yarn of your handmade bag where the stitch you just worked was started and back out the length of that fabric stitch. The back and forth motion is the same as what was used to sew the sides of the lining together.
Continue to work your stitches from right to left in this manner, being careful to only pick up the inside hem of the fabric.
Move your pins along as you stitch to hold the hem together and remove them as you work. When you have worked your way back around to where you started, tie off your thread with a knot and tuck in any ends.
