The Skyline Tote is that essential, everyday tote bag that fits every need! This large crochet tote bag carries everything from notebooks and school supplies to all your yarn for your current project. The diagonal crochet design is fun to work, features durable cotton yarn, and is finished with a gorgeous fabric lining.
Scroll down for the free crochet pattern for The Skyline Tote and click here to PIN this for later!
I don’t know about you, but I am a bag HOARDER.
I love bags, from quilted tote bags and purses to heavy-duty all-purpose bags and everything in-between. Even paper bags from shops are saved, because surely there will be a use for them later, right!? In all honesty, most of the bags that I accumulate do end up having a purpose. Quite a few in my curated collection are holding yarn or a specific work in progress at the moment.
Being such a bag junkie, it made sense to add a crochet tote bag to my stash (really, what’s one more bag?). And so, the sophisticated Skyline Tote was created as a free crochet pattern available for you here on the blog, so you can make your own handmade bag!
Purchase the ad-free PDF digital download version of this crochet tote bag from my Etsy shop here!
THE DESIGN
There are so many styles of bags, I was a little overwhelmed by all the potential options. I had a brainstorming session to narrow down specifically what I wanted to create for this crochet tote bag. I wanted a larger size bag that was still manageable to carry around once full and the design needed to be simple and not complicated to make. The bag is created in one piece with minimal seaming, and the finished rectangle panel is folded to create the main body of the bag. The top of the bag and the straps are crocheted in rounds along the circumference of the top of the folded panel. There are quite a few color changes that result in a lot of ends to weave in, but that’s how those gorgeous bias stripes are created!
DIAGONAL CROCHET
Diagonal crochet really jumped out at me as a perfect way to bring a modern twist to a basic shape! This looks complicated and mysterious, but once you break it down into sections it’s actually simple. First, the project starts with an increase section starting with a small number of chains and then increasing at the beginning and end of each row so that a triangle is formed. Next, the middle section is crocheted with an increase and a decrease for each row to maintain the same number of stitches and to build length. Lastly, the panel is finished with a decrease section where each row decreases on each end to close out the shape until the last row is completed and the rectangle is made. I learned a lot from creating the design for this crochet tote bag, and I see a lot more crochet bags in my future!
LINING YOUR CROCHET TOTE BAG
Full disclosure . . . I don’t sew. I am not good at it and I don’t enjoy it. But I really wanted to create a lining for this crochet tote bag so that it would hold its shape and not stretch out over time. I think this is an especially valuable design option for larger bags. A sewing machine is not required for this fabric lining, although it would speed up the process. The sides of the lining and top hem were sewn by hand and if a novice like me can do this, anyone can! There are step-by-step photos included with the pattern. This lining is totally optional, the crochet tote bag still looks great and will function perfectly without it.
ALL THE COTTON YARN . . .
I love crocheting with cotton yarn! There are several designs here on the blog that feature cotton yarn in some sort of blend, such as the Nadia Cardigan and the Wildflowers Lapghan. This crochet tote bag design features Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Black, Jade, and Taupe and is one of my absolute favorite economical yarns to crochet with. 100% mercerized cotton gives great stitch definition and sheen without being too stiff and compromising drape, and it’s machine washable and durable. And all those color choices – yes, please! Between the yarn and fabric, you can create so many different looks with this project and cotton yarn transcends all seasons.
Continue scrolling for the free crochet tote bag pattern for the Skyline Tote, and I cant wait to see your finished bag!
CLICK HERE to PIN The Skyline Tote for later!
Purchase the ad-free PDF digital download version of this crochet tote bag from my Etsy shop here!
DIAGONAL CROCHET TOTE BAG – SKYLINE TOTE FREE PATTERN
SKILL LEVEL: Advanced Beginner
MATERIALS:
US Size H/8 5.00 mm crochet hook
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton: Weight: 4/Worsted 100% Mercerized Cotton – 186 yards/170 meters-3.5oz/100 grams
- COLOR A: Taupe – 1 skein (approximately 186 yards)
- COLOR B: Black – 2 skeins (approximately 372 yards)
- COLOR C: Jade – 1 skein (approximately 186 yards)
Fabric for lining
Craft needle and Thread (matching Color B)
GAUGE: 14 esc stitches X 13 rows = 4 inches
NOTE: The gauge for the rows is determined by measuring from the point of the triangle to the middle of the longest row, NOT along the bottom edge. Make sure to create your gauge swatch with the diagonal crochet instructions.
Finished panel is approximately 16 in. X 28 in.
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet two together
esc – extended single crochet
YO – yarn over
st – stitch
SM – stitch marker
OVERALL PATTERN NOTES:
- The tote bag is made from one rectangle panel that is folded over and seamed up the sides to form the main body of the bag. A border is then worked in turned rounds across the top circumference of the bag to create the straps.
- The pattern features a diagonal crochet design that is created in three sections:
- First, the increase section is worked, with increase stitches worked into both the beginning and end of the row and increasing each row by 2 stitches.
- Then the middle section is worked with increases and decreases placed as indicated at the beginning and end of each row to maintain the same number of stitches.
- Lastly, the decrease section is created, with decrease stitches worked into both the beginning and end of each row and decreasing each row by 2 stitches until the panel is finished.
- An optional fabric lining can be added to the finished crochet bag, full instructions are included.
- Ch 1 and Ch 2 do not count as a stitch.
- There is no right side or wrong side to the rectangle until the sides are seamed together. Before beginning the border and straps, you will need to decide which side you prefer to be the outward-facing side as the remainder of the pattern is worked with that side out.
- Measurements are approximate and based on the gauge indicated; if you find that your dimensions are too small or too large, consider adjusting your hook size until gauge is met.
- It is suggested to use stitch markers in the first and last stitches of your rows so that it’s easier to determine where to place your increases or decreases, especially when working with a darker yarn.
SPECIAL STITCHES:
- Extended Single Crochet (esc): Insert hook into the indicated stitch and pull up a loop. YO and pull through the first loop on your hook, YO and pull through both loops on your hook.
- Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog): Insert hook into the indicated stitch and pull up a loop (2 loops on the hook). YO and insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook). YO and pull all three loops on your hook.
MAIN PANEL
INCREASE SECTION (Rows 1 – 40): Each row will increase by two stitches.
With Color A: Ch 2
Row 1: 3 esc in 2nd ch from hook, turn. (3)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 esc in 1st st, esc in next st, 2 esc in last st, turn. (5)
Row 3: Ch 2, 2 esc in 1st st, esc in next 3 st, 2 esc in last st, turn. (7)
Row 4: Ch 2, 2 esc in 1st st, esc in each st across until one st remains. 2 esc in last st, turn. (9)
Rows 5 – 40: Repeat Row 4, changing colors at the end of the row as indicated by the chart below.
| ROW NUMBER | YARN COLOR | STITCH COUNT AT END OF LAST ROW |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 5-9 | Color A | 19 |
| Rows 10-12 | Color B | 25 |
| Row 13 | Color C | 27 |
| Row 14 | Color A | 29 |
| Rows 15-20 | Color B | 41 |
| Rows 21-26 | Color C | 53 |
| Rows 27-32 | Color B | 65 |
| Row 33 | Color A | 67 |
| Row 34 | Color C | 69 |
| Row 35 | Color B | 71 |
| Rows 36-38 | Color A | 77 |
| Row 39-40 | Color B | 81 |
MIDDLE SECTION (Rows 41 – 66): Stitch count remains the same for each row
With Color B still on your hook:
Row 41: Ch 2, 2 esc in 1st st, esc across in each st until two st remains. Sc2tog in last 2 st, turn. (81)
Row 42: Ch 2, sc2tog in first 2 st, esc across until one st remain. 2 esc in last st, turn. (81).
Rows 43 – 66: Repeat Rows 41 and 42, changing colors at the end of the row as indicated by the chart below. (81)
| ROW NUMBER | YARN COLOR | STITCH COUNT AT END OF LAST ROW |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 43-44 | Color B | 81 |
| Rows 45-50 | Color C | 81 |
| Rows 51-56 | Color B | 81 |
| Rows 57-59 | Color A | 81 |
| Rows 60-62 | Color C | 81 |
| Row 63 | Color B | 81 |
| Row 64 | Color A | 81 |
| Rows 65-66 | Color B | 81 |
DECREASE SECTION (Rows 67 – 106): Each row will decrease by two stitches.
With Color B still on your hook:
Row 67: Ch 1, sc2tog in 1st 2 st from hook, esc across until two st remain. Sc2tog in last 2 st, turn. (79)
Row 68 – 105: Repeat Row 67, changing colors at the end of the row as indicated by the chart below.
| ROW NUMBER | YARN COLOR | STITCH COUNT AT END OF LAST ROW |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 68-70 | Color B | 73 |
| Rows 71-76 | Color C | 61 |
| Rows 77-82 | Color B | 49 |
| Rows 83-88 | Color A | 37 |
| Row 89 | Color B | 35 |
| Rows 90-92 | Color C | 29 |
| Rows 93-95 | Color B | 23 |
| Row 96 | Color A | 21 |
| Row 97 | Color C | 19 |
| Row 98-105 | Color A | 3 |
Row 106: Ch 1, insert hook in 1st ch from hook, YO three times (4 loops on your hook). YO, pull through 3 (2 loops on your hook), YO, pull through last two loops.
Fasten off yarn and weave in all your ends before seaming the panel together.
SEAMING THE PANEL TOGETHER
Determine which side will be the outward facing side of your finished bag. Lay the panel flat vertically with this outward facing side up. Bring the shorter bottom of the panel up to meet the shorter top of the panel. Pin the sides of the panel together to hold in place for seaming.
Join yarn at the bottom corner of the panel where the bag was folded and seam up to the top with the mattress seaming method. This method will create a smoother seam and is created by moving your yarn in and out of the edges of the rows in a similar fashion to lacing a shoe. For the project pictured, I used the darkest yarn to seam up my sides because it ended up being less visible once the bag was turned inside out.
Repeat for the other side of the panel, and you have the main body of your bag completed! Turn your bag inside out; you will work the remainder of the pattern with the outward facing side of the bag facing you.
BORDER AND STRAPS
The remainder of the bag is worked in rounds, and you will not be turning your work.
With Color B, join yarn at the top right corner of the bag at the seam. Working along the FRONT of the panel:
- Ch 1, work one sc and place marker into that st. Sc evenly across the ends of the rows (approximately 4 sc for every 3 rows).
- Work one sc into the other side seam and continue to work sc evenly across the back panel until SM is reached.
- Work last sc into marked st. Remove marker and place into the st now on your hook. (130 st)
Round 1: Do not turn. From SM, sc in 1st st from hook and each st across until SM is reached. Work last sc into the marked st. Remove marker and place into the st now on your hook. (130 st)
Rounds 2 – 5: Repeat Round 1.
Round 6: Do not turn. From SM, sc in next 22 st. Ch 80, sk next 20 st, sc to join chain in next st. Sc in next 44 st, ch 80, sk next 20 st, sc to join chain in next st. Sc in last 22 st. Work last sc into the marked st. Remove marker and place into the st now on your hook. (247 st)
Round 7: Do no turn. From SM, sc in each st across and in each chain of both straps until SM is reached. Work last sc into the marked st. Remove marker and place into the st now on your hook. (247 st)
Round 8: Do not turn. From SM, sc in each st across until SM is reached. Work last sc into the market st. Remove marker and place into the st now on your hook. (247 st)
Rounds 9 -10: Repeat Round 8. Fasten off yarn and weave in your ends.
PHOTO REFERENCE FOR SEAMING PANELS AND CROCHETING BORDER/STRAPS
Fold your panel to create the main body of the bag. 
Seaming up the sides with the mattress seaming method. 
This method will create a smoother seam and will hide the yarn better. 
Place stitch markers at the beginning of each round to make it easier to keep track of what round you are on. 
Join the long chain of the strap to the indicated stitch with a single crochet.
ADDING FABRIC LINING TO YOUR CROCHET TOTE BAG
General Notes:
- It is recommended that you take your finished handmade bag with you when you purchase your fabric so you can lay it flat to determine the correct length and width to be cut.
- In addition, the thread used to sew the lining should be a close match to the color used to make the border and straps (for my piece this was black yarn and thread). I used embroidery thread for a slightly thicker and more secure hold as I am hand-sewing the lining instead of machine sewing.
- Your fabric piece should measure more than twice the length of your finished bag and should be cut in one long piece. The width should be at least 2 inches wider on each side than your crochet bag laid flat.
- If your chosen fabric has a print, the lining will be stitched with the print facing in. The top hem is folded down and the sides are sewn together first before sewing the fabric to the crochet tote bag.
To begin, fold your cut length of fabric in half lengthwise and lay on a flat surface with the pattern facing in. Lay your bag on top of the fabric with the bottom of the bag lined up flush with the folded bottom of the fabric. There should be at least two inches of fabric on each side of your handmade bag. Then fold the top of the fabric down to create the hem and pin in place; you will make this fold at the top of the first row of single crochet worked in Color B. Next will you will trim any excess fabric.
Pin the hem to the bag to hold it in place and pin the sides of the fabric together from the folded hem to the bottom; you will place your pins right next to the sides of the bag, being careful not to pin the fabric to the crochet tote bag itself.
Once the sides are pinned together, carefully flip the bag over and repeat the process of folding down the hem on the other side and trimming any excess. Make sure your second folded hem is lined up exactly with the first hem and the first row of single crochet and pin the hem to hold it in place.
Remove the fabric from the bag, and you are ready begin sewing the sides. You can place pins across the hem to keep it folded down while you work.
Cut a length of thread at least three times longer than the length of the lining and thread your needle. Starting from the top of the lining where the hem is folded down, insert your needle and work stitches from right to left down. Insert your needle just to the left of the previous stitch, pull the thread through and insert the needle back into the fabric to the edge of the stitch just created. Continue in this fashion to the bottom of the lining and tie off. Repeat for the other side and trim any excess thread.
PHOTO REFERENCE FOR PINNING AND SEWING THE LINING
Gather all your materials for adding fabric lining to your crochet tote bag. Choosing the perfect fabric to go with your colors will be such fun! 
Make sure the fabric is one long piece that is twice the length of your bag with at least two inches on each side. 
Fold the top of the fabric down to create the hem, lining the hem up with the first row of single crochet. 
Pin the hem to the bag to hold it in place and pin the sides of the fabric together from the folded hem to the bottom 
You will place your pins right next to the sides of the bag, being careful not to pin the fabric to the bag itself. 
Place a pin at the top of the fabric where the hem is folded to secure in place. 
Remove the bag from inside the fabric and set aside. Place pins along the hem to keep the fold in place. 
Starting from the top of the lining where the hem is folded down, insert your needle and work stiches from right to left down. 
Continue in this fashion to the bottom of the fabric and tie off.
Sewing the top hem of the lining
Insert your lining inside your crochet tote bag and push the corners in to adjust until the lining is lying flat. The sewed seam of your lining should line up with the inside seam of your crocheted bag; pin your lining to your bag at the seams first. Laying your bag flat and making sure to smooth out the lining and line up the hems, pin the tops of the hems to the bag to hold in place.
First, cut a length of thread at least three times longer than the circumference of the crochet tote bag and thread your needle. Starting at one of the seams and working from right to left, move your needle in and out of JUST THE INSIDE HEM of the fabric. Now, insert your needle into the yarn of your bag where the stitch you just worked was started and move through the yarn just as far as that stitch in the fabric. You are matching the length of the stitch worked into the fabric.
Then, insert your needle back into the fabric where the thread from the previous stitch ended and move your needle along JUST THE INSIDE HEM of the fabric and back out. Again, insert your needle into the yarn of your handmade bag where the stitch you just worked was started and back out the length of that fabric stitch. The back and forth motion is the same as what was used to sew the sides of the lining together.
Continue to work your stitches from right to left in this manner, being careful to only pick up the inside hem of the fabric.
Move your pins along as you stitch to hold the hem together and remove them as you work. When you have worked your way back around to where you started, tie off your thread with a knot and tuck in any ends.
PHOTO REFERENCE FOR SEWING THE LINING TO YOUR HANDMADE BAG
Line up the fabric seams with the crochet bag seams and pin in place. 
Place pins all along the inside circumference of the bag, lining the hem up with the first row of single crochet. 
Make sure to insert your needle into the INSIDE hem of the fabric to ensure the thread stays hidden. 
Moving your needle in the same back and forth motion used to seam up the fabric sides, continue to insert your needled into the yarn and inside hem of the fabric. 
Your bag is finished and ready to hold all the things!!
