Buttoned Crochet Cardigan – The Harmony Cardigan

The Harmony Cardigan is a lightweight buttoned crochet cardigan for an elegant and modern look that’s perfect for transitional weather! This delicate and feminine cardigan features hand-dyed fingering weight yarn for a stylish and beautiful one-of-a-kind addition to your handmade wardrobe.

Scroll down for The Harmony Cardigan free crochet pattern and click HERE to pin this for later!

Inspiration and Design

I love a buttoned cardigan that you can wear like a sweater, with functional buttons that also serve as decoration! For this reason, I have many of these cardigans in my closet. Most of the crochet cardigans I have designed have been comfortable, loose fitting open front cardigans, but I wanted to challenge myself with making a different style. Specifically, I wanted a more fitted garment with delicate and feminine details, a scooped neckline and cute buttons down the front. Not only did this buttoned crochet cardigan turn out exactly like my vision, but it is also lightweight and easy to wear with a subtle texture, and the drape is to die for. My version of the Harmony Cardigan is a size Medium because I wanted a closer fit, but with nine size options, you can size up or down for the fit you want.

Scroll down for The Harmony Cardigan free crochet pattern and click HERE to pin this for later!

Want the ad-free PDF version of The Harmony Cardigan? Visit my ETSY and RAVELRY shops!

While this specific colorway was part of a seasonal collection and is no longer available, there are many indie yarn dyers with available ready to ship yarn or new collections. I encourage you to check out some of my favorites: for example, Montana Crochet, Sewrella Yarn, Ruby and Roses Yarn, Hue Loco, and Bad Sheep Yarn. Not into hand-dyed yarn for your crochet buttoned cardigan version? Crochet.com has a great selection of high-quality fingering weight yarn, such as Hawthorne Fingering, Alpaca Cloud Fingering, Gloss, Palette and Stroll.

Scroll down for The Harmony Cardigan free crochet pattern and click HERE to pin this for later!

Looking for more Sweater Weather projects? Check out The Sylvan Sweater for a stylish transitional look, cozy up with The Fairy Tale Blanket and work up the easiest pocket shawl ever with The Hygge Pocket Shawl! Its also the perfect time of year for cozy super scarves – check out this great collection and pattern round up, 24 Crochet Super Scarves!

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The Harmony Cardigan – Free Crochet Pattern for a Buttoned Crochet Cardigan

SKILL LEVEL:  Intermediate

MATERIALS:

US Size G/6 4.00 mm crochet hook

Featured Yarn:  Montana Crochet Cozy Sock, Weight #1/Fingering (75% Extra-Fine Superwash Merino/25% Nylon – 463 yards/100 grams)

• Butterscotch – 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8, 9) skeins; approximately 1852 (1852, 2315, 2315, 2778) (2778, 3241, 3704, 4167) yards.

Stitch Markers

Scissors

Yarn needle or craft sewing needle

Measuring Tape

Ball head straight pins

Buttons (17.5mm size used for sample) – quantity to preference

SIZES:

	FITS CHEST	FINISHED CHEST	LENGTH OF FRONT AND BACK PANELS (including ribbing)	FINISHED BACK WIDTH (shoulder to shoulder)	FRONT PANEL WIDTH (not including ribbing edging for buttons)	ARMHOLE DEPTH	SLEEVE LENGTH (including cuff)	RIBBING HEIGHT (front/back panels)
XS	28-30”	32”	21.25”	16”	7.5”	6.5”	15”	1.75”
S	32-34”	36”	22.25”	18”	8.5”	7”	15.5”	1.75”
M	36-38”	40”	23.25”	20”	9.5”	7.5”	15.5”	1.75”
L	40-42”	44”	24.25”	22”	10.5”	8”	15.5”	1.75”
XL	44-46”	48”	25.25”	24”	11.5”	8.5”	14.75”	1.75”
2X	48-50”	52”	26.25”	26”	12.5”	9”	14.75”	1.75”
3X	52-54”	56”	27.25”	28”	13.5”	9.5”	14.75”	1.75”
4X	56-58”	60”	28.25”	30”	14.5”	10”	13.75”	1.75”
5X	60-62”	64”	29.25”	32”	15.5”	10.5”	13.75”	1.75”

*FITS CHEST refers to the measurement of the intended wearer.  FINISHED CHEST refers to the measurements of the finished garment. 

*This crochet buttoned cardigan is intended to have a relaxed, comfortable fit with 4-6 inches of positive ease in the main panels of the cardigan and is meant to be worn closed up the front with buttons. The cardigan can be customized in the length of the cardigan panels and the sleeves.

The sweater pictured is a size Medium and the model is 5’4” with a 38” bust.

GAUGE:          

• 21 HBdc stitches X 15 rows = 4 inches
• Ribbing (half double crochet in the back loop only):  16 rows = 4 inches

It is recommended to work a gauge swatch that mirrors the pattern instructions, from the ribbing up. 

GAUGE SWATCH:

Ribbing is crocheted first, and then is turned horizontally to work hdc sts across the ends of the rows to continue the swatch from the bottom up. 

Ribbing:  Ch 13

Row 1:  Hdc in 2^nd ch from hook and in each ch across.  Turn.  (12 hdc sts)

Row 2:  Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc in both loops in first st.  Hdc BLO in next st and in each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn. (12 hdc sts)

Rows 3 – 26:  Repeat Row 2.  Do not fasten off yarn, you will continue with the working yarn. 

Turn the ribbing horizontally to work stitches into the ends of the rows.  Each row begins and ends with a double crochet stitch.  Work approximately 4 HBdc stitches for every 3 ribbing rows, with the last 3 sts in the last 2 rows:

Row 1 (WS):  Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into the first ribbing row, PM in this st.  HBdc evenly across the ends of the ribbing row ends according to the instructions above. Turn.  (35 HBdc sts)

Row 2 (RS):  Ch 1, dc in first st, PM in this st.  HBdc in each st across, ending with dc in last (marked) st.  Turn.  (35 HBdc sts)

Rows 3 – 24:  Repeat Row 2.  Measure ribbing and main stitch pattern WITHIN your swatch to determine gauge.   

ABBREVIATIONS:

ch(s) – chain(s)

st(s) – stitch(es)

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

hdc BLO – half double crochet in BACK loop only

dc – double crochet

HBdc – Herringbone double crochet

Dc2tog – double crochet two together (decrease)

sl st – slip stitch

YO sl st – yarn over slip stitch

YO sl st FLO – yarn over slip stitch in FRONT loop only

Tch – turning chain

PM – place marker

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

YO – yarn over

OVERALL PATTERN NOTES:

• Pattern is written in smallest size with larger sizes following in parentheses:  XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). 
• This crochet buttoned cardigan is worked in three panels for the main body (back panel and two front panels) that are then seamed together at the shoulders and sides.  The back and front panels are finished with shaping rows in order to create a scoop neck. 
• Ribbing is crocheted first at the bottom hems of the panels and then turned horizontally to work Herringbone double crochet stitches across the ends of the rows.  The panels are then worked from the bottom ribbing up. 
• Sleeves are ¾ length and crocheted in turned rounds directly onto the armholes down to the cuffs.  The sleeves are finished with ruffled cuff detailing. 
• Ribbed edging is added to each front panel where the panels meet in the middle, subsequently adding one inch to the width of each panel.  This edging will overlap in order to create the button-down front of the cardigan. 
• Ruffled detailing is added to the collar in turned rows to finish the cardigan. 
• Ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch. 
• If you are adding length to your crochet buttoned cardigan, make sure to note how many rows are needed to shape the back and front panels for your size and adjust the panel lengths accordingly. 
• If you are adding length to the sleeve, repeat additional rounds that do not decrease. 

Special Stitches

Herringbone Double Crochet (HBdc):  YO, insert hook into intended stitch, YO and pull through the stitch and the first loop on the hook (two loops on hook).  YO, pull through one loop, YO, pull through both loops. 

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog):  YO, insert hook into intended stitch, YO and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook). Next, YO and pull through two loops (two loops on the hook), YO and insert the hook into the next stitch, YO and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook).  Lastly, YO and pull through two loops, YO and pull through the remaining three loops.    

Yarn Over Slip Stitch (YO sl st): YO, insert hook into the intended stitch and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook).  Continue to pull through the last two loops on the hook. 

Yarn Over Slip Stitch Front Loop Only (YO sl st FLO): YO, insert hook into the FRONT LOOP only of the intended stitch and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook).  Continue to pull through the last two loops on the hook. 

BACK PANEL

Notes:  Ribbing is crocheted first, and then is turned horizontally to work hdc sts across the ends of the rows to continue the panels from the bottom up. 

RIBBING

Foundation Row:  Ch 13. 

Row 1:  Hdc in 2^nd ch from hook and in each ch across.  Turn.  (12 hdc sts)

Row 2:  Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc in both loops in first st.  Hdc BLO in next st and in each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn.  (12 hdc sts)

Rows 3 – 63 (72, 80, 87, 96) (103, 111, 119, 127):  Repeat Row 2.  Do not fasten off, continue using the same working yarn from the ribbing. 

Continuing the Panel

Turn the ribbing horizontally to work stitches into the ends of the rows.  Work approximately 4 hdc stitches for every 3 ribbing rows as per below:

• XS:  84 sts across 63 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows. 
• S:  95 sts across 72 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 3 HBdc sts into last 3 rows. 
• M:  106 sts across 80 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 2 HBdc sts into last 2 rows.    
• L:  116 sts across 87 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows. 
• XL:  127 sts across 96 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 3 HBdc sts into last 3 rows. 
• 2X:  137 sts across 103 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last HBdc st into last row. 
• 3X:  147 sts across 111 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 3 HBdc sts into last 3 rows.      
• 4X:  158 sts across 119 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 2 HBdc sts into last 2 rows.    
• 5X:  169 sts across 127 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last HBdc st into last row.

Row 1 (WS):  Ch 1, dc into the first ribbing row, PM in this st.  HBdc evenly across the ends of the ribbing row ends according to the instructions above. Turn.  [84 (95, 106, 116, 127) (127, 147, 158, 169) HBdc sts]

Row 2 (RS):  Ch 1, dc in first st, PM in this st.  HBdc in each st across, ending with dc in last (marked) st.  Turn.  [84 (95, 106, 116, 127) (127, 147, 158, 169) HBdc sts]

Rows 3 – 74 (76, 78, 82, 86) (90, 92, 96, 100):  Repeat Row 2. 

Reference Photos for Ribbing and Beginning Rows

Sizes XS and S:  Fasten off.  Total number of rows:  74 (76, –, –, –) (–, –, –, –)

Remaining sizes:  Do not fasten off, move on to back panel shaping row instructions.    

With back panel lying flat and WS facing up, count — (–, 28, 31, 33) (35, 37, 40, 42) sts in from each side and place a stitch marker in that stitch.  You should have — (–, 50, 54, 61) (67, 73, 78, 85) sts in between these markers.  Continuing with working yarn: 

Shoulder on Right Side

Row 1 (WS):  Ch 1, dc in first st, PM in this st.  HBdc in each st across, ending with dc in last (marked) st.  Turn.  [– (–, 28, 31, 33) (35, 37, 40, 42) HBdc sts]

Row 2 (RS):  Ch 1, dc2tog in first two sts, PM in this st.  HBdc in next st and each across, ending with dc in last st.   Turn.  [– (–, 27, 30, 32) (34, 36, 39, 41) HBdc sts]

Sizes M, L, XL and 2X:  Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.  Total number of rows:  — (–, 80, 84, 88) (92, –, –, –)

Row 3:  Ch 1, dc in first st, PM in this st.  HBdc in each st across until two sts remaining.  Dc2tog in last two sts.  Turn.  [– (–, –, –, –) (–, 35, 38, 40) total sts]

Row 4:  Repeat Row 2.  [– (–, –, –, –) (–, 34, 37, 39) hdc sts]

Sizes 3X, 4X and 5X:  Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.  Total number of rows:  — (–, –, –, –) (–, 96, 100, 104)

Shoulder on Left Side

With back panel lying flat and WS facing up and completed shaping rows to your right, join yarn at the stitch marker on the left.   

Row 1 (WS):  Ch 1, dc in same st as join, PM in this st.  HBdc in next st and each across, ending with dc in last st.  Turn.  [– (–, 28, 31, 33) (35, 37, 40, 42) HBdc sts]

Row 2 (RS):  Ch 1, dc in first st, PM in this st.  HBdc in each st across until two sts remaining.  Dc2tog in last two sts.   [– (–, 27, 30, 32) (34, 36, 39, 41) HBdc sts]

Sizes M, L, XL and 2X:  Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.  Total number of rows:  — (–, 80, 84, 88) (92, –, –, –)

Row 3:  Ch 1, dc2tog in first two sts, PM in this st.  HBdc in next st and each across, ending with dc in last st.   Turn Turn.  [– (–, –, –, –) (–, 35, 38, 40) total sts]

Row 4:  Repeat Row 2.  [– (–, –, –, –) (–, 34, 37, 39) hdc sts]

Sizes 3X, 4X and 5X:  Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.  Total number of rows:  — (–, –, –, –) (–, 96, 100, 104)

Reference Photos for Back Panel and Shaping Rows

FRONT PANELS

Notes:  Ribbing is crocheted first, and then is turned horizontally to work hdc sts across the ends of the rows to continue the panels from the bottom up. 

Left Shoulder Panel (when worn)

RIBBING

Foundation Row:  Ch 13. 

Row 1:  Hdc in 2^nd ch from hook and in each ch across.  Turn.  (12 hdc sts)

Row 2:  Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc in both loops in first st.  Hdc BLO in next st and in each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st.  Turn.  (12 hdc sts)

Rows 3 – 30 (34, 38, 42, 46) (50, 54, 58, 62):  Repeat Row 2.  Do not fasten off, continue using the same working yarn from the ribbing. 

Continuing the Panel

Turn the ribbing horizontally to work stitches into the ends of the rows.  Work approximately 4 hdc stitches for every 3 ribbing rows as per below:

• XS:  40 sts across 30 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows. 
• S:  45 sts across 34 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last HBdc st into last row.    
• M:  50 sts across 38 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 2 HBdc sts into last 2 rows.    
• L:  55 sts across 42 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 3 HBdc sts into last 3 rows. 
• XL:  61 sts across 46 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last HBdc st into last row. 
• 2X:  66 sts across 50 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 2 HBdc sts into last 2 rows. 
• 3X:  71 sts across 54 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 3 HBdc sts into last 3 rows.      
• 4X:  77 sts across 58 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last HBdc st into last row.    
• 5X:  82 sts across 62 rows – 4 HBdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 2 HBdc sts into last 2 rows.

Row 1 (WS):  Ch 1, dc into the first ribbing row, PM in this st.  HBdc evenly across the ends of the ribbing row ends according to the instructions above. Turn.  [40 (45, 50, 55, 61) (66, 71, 77, 82) HBdc sts]

Row 2 (RS):  Ch 1, dc in first st, PM in this st.  HBdc in each st across, ending with dc in last (marked) st.  Turn.  [40 (45, 50, 55, 61) (66, 71, 77, 82) HBdc sts]

Rows 3 – 67 (67, 69, 71, 75) (77, 81, 83, 87):  Repeat Row 2. 

Shaping Rows for Left Shoulder Panel

With RS facing up, count 28 (33, 37, 42, 44) (48, 48, 53, 55) sts in from right side and place a stitch marker.

Row 1 (RS):  Ch 1, dc in first st, PM in this st.  HBdc in next st and each across, ending with dc in marked st.  Turn.  [28 (33, 37, 42, 44) (48, 48, 53, 55) HBdc sts]

Row 2 (WS):  Ch 1, dc2tog in first two sts, PM in this st.  HBdc in next st and each across, ending with dc in last st.   Turn.  [27 (32, 36, 41, 43) (47, 47, 52, 54) HBdc sts]

Row 3:  Ch 1, dc in first st, PM in this st.  HBdc in each st across until two sts remaining.  Dc2tog in last two sts.  Turn.  [26 (31, 35, 40, 42) (46, 46, 51, 53) HBdc sts]

Rows 4 – 7 (9, 11, 13, 13) (15, 15, 17, 17) – Repeat Rows 2 and 3.  [22 (25, 27, 30, 32) (34, 34, 37, 39) HBdc sts]  Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Reference Photos for Left Shoulder Panel

Right Shoulder Panel (when worn)

Work ribbing and panel instructions as for left shoulder panel until Row 67 (67, 69, 71, 75) (77, 81, 83, 87) is completed. 

Shaping Rows for Right Shoulder Panel

With RS facing up, count 28 (33, 37, 42, 44) (48, 48, 53, 55) sts in from left side and place a stitch marker.  Join yarn at the stitch marker. 

Row 1 (RS):  Ch 1, dc in same st as join, PM in this st.  HBdc in next st and each across, ending with dc in last st.  Turn.  [28 (33, 37, 42, 44) (48, 48, 53, 55) HBdc sts]

Row 2 (WS):  Ch 1, dc in first st, PM in this st.  HBdc in each st across until two sts remaining.  Dc2tog in last two sts.  Turn.  [27 (32, 36, 41, 43) (47, 47, 52, 54) HBdc sts]

Row 3:  Ch 1, dc2tog in first two sts, PM in this st.  HBdc in next st and each across, ending with dc in last st.   Turn.  [26 (31, 35, 40, 42) (46, 46, 51, 53) HBdc sts]

Rows 4 – 7 (9, 11, 13, 13) (15, 15, 17, 17) – Repeat Rows 2 and 3, ending with22 (25, 27, 30, 32) (34, 34, 37, 39) HBdc sts.  Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Reference Photos for Right Shoulder Panel

SEAMING THE PANELS TOGETHER

Lay the back panel flat with WS facing up and position the front panels on top with RS facing up.  This means that the right shoulder panel will be placed on the left side of the cardigan and the left shoulder panel will be placed on the right side of the cardigan as you are looking at it flat on your workspace. 

You will be seaming the cardigan together with RS facing out.  Make sure to line up the stitches across the top of the cardigan; secure with stitch markers.  Using the yarn tails, seam the shoulders.  I used the whip stitch to seam the shoulders of my cardigan. 

Line up the sides of the sweater and pin, leaving 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) inches for the armholes.  Make sure the HBdc rows are in line with each other from the back panel to the front panels.   Join yarn at the bottom hem and seam up the sides of the cardigan to the armpit.   I used the mattress stitch to seam the cardigan sides as this creates a smooth join. 

SLEEVES

Sleeves are worked directly onto the armholes in turned rounds.  The sleeves are designed to extend from the armholes to just above the wrist; additional length can be added to the sleeves by working additional round repeats that do not decrease. 

Each decrease round will decrease the total number of stitches by two.  Decrease rounds are indicated in the chart below to correspond with your size. 

The sleeve is finished with decorative ruffled edging. 

Left Side Sleeve (right sleeve when worn)

With the cardigan lying flat and RS facing up, join yarn at the armpit on your left.  Working up the BACK PANEL of the cardigan towards the shoulder: 

Round 1 (RS):  Ch 1, dc in same st as join, PM in this st.  Evenly work HBdc sts into ends of rows, working up the back panel and back to the armpit, dc in last st.  Sl st to marked st.  Turn.  [68 (74, 79, 84, 89) (95, 100, 105, 110) HBdc sts]

Round 2 (WS):  Ch 1, dc in same st as tch, PM in this st.  HBdc in next st and each across, ending with dc in last st.  Turn.  [68 (74, 79, 84, 89) (95, 100, 105, 110) HBdc sts]

Rounds 56 (58, 58, 58, 55) (55, 55, 52, 52):  Repeat Round 2, working decrease rounds as indicated in the chart below: 

Decrease Round:  Ch 1, dc in same st as tch, PM in this st.  Dc2tog in next two sts, HBdc in next st.  Hbdc in each st around until three sts remain.  Dc2tog in next two sts, dc in last st.  Sl st to marked st.  Turn. 

DECREASE ROUNDS

Size	Decrease Row #	Decrease Stitch Count	Size	Decrease Row #	Decrease Stitch Count	Size	Decrease Row #	Decrease Stitch Count
XS	4 7 10 13 17 21 24 28 31 35 38 41 44 47 51 54	66 64 62 60 58 56 54 52 50 48 46 44 42 40 38 36	S	4 7 10 14 18 22 25 29 33 37 40 44 47 50 53 56	72 70 68 66 64 62 60 58 56 54 52 50 48 46 44 42	M	4 7 10 14 18 22 25 29 33 37 40 44 47 50 53 56	77 75 73 71 69 67 65 63 61 59 57 55 53 51 49 47
L	4 7 10 14 18 22 25 29 33 37 40 44 47 50 53 56	82 80 78 76 74 72 70 68 66 64 62 60 58 56 54 52	XL	4 7 10 13 16 19 23 27 31 35 38 41 44 47 50 53	87 85 83 81 79 77 75 73 71 69 67 65 63 61 59 57	2X	4 7 10 13 16 20 24 28 31 35 38 41 44 47 50 53	93 91 89 87 85 83 81 79 77 75 73 71 69 67 65 63
3X	4 7 10 13 16 20 24 28 31 35 38 41 44 47 50 53	98 96 94 92 90 88 86 84 82 80 78 76 74 72 70 68	4X	4 7 10 13 16 19 22 26 29 32 35 38 41 44 47 50	103 101 99 97 95 93 91 89 87 85 83 81 79 77 75 73	5X	4 7 10 13 16 19 22 26 29 32 35 38 41 44 47 50	108 106 104 102 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 86 84 82 80 78

Reference Photos for Left Side Sleeve

Cuff Edging

After completing Round 56 (58, 58, 58, 55) (55, 55, 52, 52) with a Round 2 repeat, two additional rounds are crocheted to finish the sleeves at the wrists.  Stitch count before beginning the cuff edging is 36 (42, 47, 52, 57) (63, 68, 73, 78). 

Round 1:  Ch 1, sc in same st as tch, PM in this st.  Sc in next st and each around back to marked st.  Sl st to marked st, do not turn. 

Round 2:  Ch 1, sc in both loops of marked st, PM in this st.  Sc BLO in next st.  *(sc BLO, ch 1, sc BLO) in next st, sc in next two sts.*  Repeat from * to * back to marked st until there are not enough sts to work a repeat.  Sc in remaining sts.  Sl st to marked st, fasten off. 

Right Side Sleeve (left sleeve when worn)

With the cardigan lying flat and RS facing up with finished sleeve on your left, join yarn at the armpit on your right.  Working up the FRONT PANEL of the cardigan towards the shoulder, repeat instructions for left sleeve, working decrease rounds as indicated in the chart provided and finishing the sleeve with the cuff edging.   

Reference Photos for Right Side Sleeve

FRONT PANEL EDGING – ADDING BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES

Edging is added to the front panels in turned rows to add an additional one inch of width to the front of the finished crochet buttoned cardigan.  The overall stitch count is not important, as long as your starting row stitches are worked evenly so that there is no puckering or bunching.

Buttons are sewn on to the right side panel edging (this is the left panel when worn), and buttonholes are crocheted onto the left side panel edging (this is the right panel when worn). 

Additional width can be added to the panels by working additional edging rows.    

Edging with Buttons (Right side panel, left side when worn)

With the cardigan lying flat and RS facing up, join yarn at the TOP CORNER of the panel on your right. 

Row 1:  Ch 1, sc in same st as join, PM in this st.  Working down towards the ribbed hemline, evenly work sc sts into the ends of the rows.  Turn. 

Row 2:  Ch 1, YO sl st FLO in first st, PM in this st.  YO sl st FLO in next st and each across, ending with last st in marked st.  Turn.

Row 3:  Ch 1, YO sl st both loops in first st, PM in this st.  YO sl st both loops in next st and each across, ending with last st in marked st.  Turn.

Rows 4 – 7:  Repeat Rows 2 and 3.

Row 8:  Repeat Row 2.  Fasten off. 

Adding your buttons

With the cardigan lying flat and your finished panel edging on your right, place your buttons along the edging.  I used nine 17.5mm buttons for the finished sample in size Medium.  Line up the buttons so they are roughly 2 inches apart and centered over row 5 of the edging.  Use your ball head straight pins to mark your button placement and leave in place after sewing your buttons on (see photos).  This will be helpful when working the buttonholes on the other panel. 

Reference Photos for Button-Edged Front Panel

Edging with Buttonholes (Left side panel, right side when worn)

With the cardigan lying flat and RS facing up, join yarn at the BOTTOM CORNER of the panel on your left. 

Row 1:  Ch 1, sc in same st as join, PM in this st.  Working down towards the ribbed hemline, evenly work sc sts into the ends of the rows.  Turn. 

Row 2:  Ch 1, YO sl st FLO in first st, PM in this st.  YO sl st FLO in next st and each across, ending with last st in marked st.  Turn.

Row 3:  Ch 1, YO sl st both loops in first st, PM in this st.  YO sl st both loops in next st and each across, ending with last st in marked st.  Turn.

Rows 4:  Repeat Row 2.

Before continuing, line up the finished right side panel with sewn on buttons with the panel in progress on your left.  The ball head straight will overlap (see photo) the rows completed so far on the left panel.  Place stitch markers where the pins overlap; this will be where you skip stitches to create the buttonholes. 

Row 5:  Ch 1, YO sl st both loops in first st, PM in this st.  *YO sl st both loops in next st until marked st.  Ch 2, skip marked st, sk next st, YO sl st both loops in next st.*  Repeat from * to * until the end of the row, ending with last st in marked st.  Turn. 

Row 6:  Ch 1, YO sl st FLO in first st, PM in this st.  YO sl st FLO in next st and each across, working two YO sl st into each chain two space and ending with last st in marked st.  Turn.

Row 7:  Repeat Row 3. 

Row 8:  Repeat Row 2.  Fasten off. 

Reference Photos for Buttonhole Panel

COLLAR EDGING

Edging is added to the cardigan neckline in turned rows.  Overall stitch count is not important as long as stitches are crocheted evenly so the first row does not pucker or curl. 

With the cardigan lying flat and RS facing up, join yarn at the TOP CORNER of the panel on your left (the buttonhole panel).  Working across the top of the left panel towards the shoulder: 

Row 1:  Ch 1, sc in same st as join, PM in this st.  Sc evenly across, working one dc into the corner where the decrease rows begin.  Next, sc evenly into ends of shaping rows, working one dc where the front panel meets the back panel.  Then sc into the sts across the back panel, working one dc where the back panel meets the front panel on the other side.  Next, sc evenly into the ends of the shaping rows, working one dc into the corner where the decrease rows end.  Finally, sc into the remaining sts along the other front panel.  Turn. 

Row 2:  Ch 1, YO sl st FLO in first st, PM in this st.  YO sl st FLO in each st across, ending with last st in marked st.  Turn. 

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in first st, PM in this st.  Sc in next st.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in next st.  *Sc in next two sts, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next st.*  Repeat from * to * around to marked st until there are not enough sts to work a repeat. Sc in remaining sts.  Fasten off. 

Reference Photos for Collar Details

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