Textured Table Runner – Boho Squares Table Runner

Bring homemade vibes to your table with this boho-inspired textured crochet table runner! The Boho Squares Table Runner has just the right amount of rustic charm without overwhelming your table and features a cotton-hemp yarn blend and easy stitches.

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Design Notes for a Textured Crochet Table Runner

I have been wanting to design a project with different visual aspects. Think rows that offset each other and shapes that come together in different ways. I wanted the visual impact of crochet squares but not for the entire project. And while I love the monochromatic look of cream and black, the addition of the earthy green really grounds the design and brings a subtle pop of color. Construction of this textured table runner is simple, beginning with seaming your finished squares together to create a long column that will form the middle of table runner. Then the project is turned to work long rows on each side, adding width and visual interest and more texture. Don’t forget about the fringe!

Also, this is the first crochet square I have ever designed! There was a lot of trial and error, working different squares over and over, before I created a workable design that was easy to crochet and easy to write the instructions for. I am really happy with it, I love that it starts as a circle and ends as a square. This project is easily customable by adding or removing squares and long rows to adjust width and length, and the color combinations are endless for this textured table runner.

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Yarn Inspiration

Cotton and cotton-blend yarns are a must for handmade home decor! Kitchen towels, dishcloths and placemats as well as table runners need to stand up to frequent washing, so your yarn choice is crucial. While durable and strong, a lot of cotton blend yarn is stiff and scratchy and not easy to work with. Luckily Cotton Hemp by Lion Brand is ideal for decor projects! It was the perfect choice for this textured table runner. 70% cotton and 30% hemp, this natural fiber yarn checks off all the boxes for strength, durability and softness. I love working with it and its quickly becoming a favorite. Cotton Hemp is featured for The Summer Pop Tote!

Want the ad-free version of the Boho Squares Table Runner?  Visit my ETSY and RAVELRY shops!

The Boho Squares Textured Crochet Table Runner

I am so pleased to add to my collection of home decor items (which, aside from blankets, consists of exactly one other table runner – The Gatherings Table Runner) and I will certainly be expanding on this motif for other items. Placemats? Pillows? A full-size blanket? This textured table runner was so much fun to make! I hope it brings you joy as you make it and that you will proudly display it in your home. Happy crocheting, friends!

Scroll down for the Boho Squares Table Runner FREE crochet pattern and click here to PIN this for later!

Want the ad-free version of the Boho Squares Table Runner?  Visit my ETSY and RAVELRY shops!

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Boho Squares Textured Table Runner – Free Crochet Pattern

SKILL LEVEL:  Advanced Beginner

MATERIALS:

US Size H/5.00 mm crochet hook

Lion Brand Cotton Hemp (Weight:  #4/Worsted 70% Cotton, 30% Hemp – 164 yards/150 meters, 3.5 ounces/100 grams)

• Color A:  Husk – 7 skeins; approximately 1,148 yards
• Color B:  Raven – 2 skeins; approximately 328 yards
• Color C:  Olive – 1 skein; approximately 164 yards

Scissors

Yarn needle

Stitch Markers

Measuring Tape

GAUGE (not crucial for this project):

• Square: 5 X 5 inches (unblocked)
• Long Rows: 15 sts X 11 rows = 3.5 inches (unblocked)

The finished sample pictured is approximately 75 inches long by 17 inches wide.

ABBREVIATIONS: 

ch(s) – chain(s)

st(s) – stitch(es)

MC – magic circle

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

dc2tog – double crochet two together

dc3tog – double crochet three together

sl st – slip stitch

sk – skip

ch-sp – chain space

ch2-sp – chain two space

ch3-sp – chain three space

tch – turning chain

PM – place marker

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

Special Stitches:

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog):  Worked together as a cluster in one stitch – YO, insert hook into indicated stitch, YO and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook). YO, pull through two loops (two loops on the hook).  YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook).  YO, pull through two loops, YO pull through remaining three loops. 

Double Crochet Three Together (dc3tog):  Worked together as a cluster in one stitch – YO, insert hook into indicated stitch, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through two stiches (two loops on the hook).  YO, insert hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook), YO and pull through two stitches (three loops on the hook).  YO, insert hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook).  YO, pull through three stitches, YO, pull through remaining three stitches. 

PATTERN NOTES:

• Individual squares are crocheted and laid out in an alternating motif that are seamed together into a long column to create the middle of this textured table runner.  Stitches are then crocheted onto the long sides of the column in turned rows to create additional width on either side of the column. 
• Ch 1, Ch 2 and Ch 3 do NOT count as stitches unless indicated in the pattern. 
• The pattern is written for one length and width; however, the length can be adjusted by adding or removing squares.  The width of the table runner can be adjusted by adding or removing long rows.  Please make sure to purchase additional yarn if you are adding length and/or width. 
• A total of 30 squares are crocheted in rounds that do not turn – 15 solid squares in Color A and 15 squares adding Color B as an accent color.  Once the squares are seamed together, the project is turned to work rows down the long sides to add texture and additional color. 
• To finish the table runner, fringe is added to the ends for a fun and festive addition to your special gatherings and table décor.  The finished sample features Color C for the fringe but this can be customized. 

THE PATTERN:

Squares (make 15 squares in Color A and 15 squares adding Color B accent for 30 total squares)

Begin each square with Color A:     

Round 1:  12 dc inside MC.  PM in first dc worked, do not turn.  (12 dc sts)

Round 2:  Ch 2 (counts as a st here), dc2tog in marked st, PM in this st.  *Ch 3, dc3tog in next st.*  Repeat from * to * back to marked stitch.  Ch 3, sl st to marked st, do not turn.  (12 clusters) 

Round 3:  Ch 2, 2 dc in the ch3-sp behind the chain, PM in first st worked.  3 hdc in next two ch3-sp.  *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch3-sp, 3 hdc in next two ch3-sp.* Repeat from * to * back to marked st.  2 dc in same ch-sp as first two dc sts, ch 2, sl st to marked st, do not turn.  (40 sts)

Reference Photos – Rounds 1 – 3

Round 4:  Ch 2, 2 hdc in the ch2-sp behind the chain, PM in first st worked.  Ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in space between clusters from row below.  (Ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in space between clusters from row below) twice.  *Ch 2, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in corner ch2-sp, ch 2.  Sk 2 sts, sc in space between clusters from row below.  (Ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in space between clusters from row below) twice.*  Repeat from * to * back to marked st.  Ch 2, 2 hdc in same ch-sp as first two hdc sts, ch 2, sl st to marked st, do not turn.  (48 sts)

*If working an accent color square, switch to Color B before beginning Round 5.

Round 5:  Ch 2, 2 hdc in the ch2-sp behind the chain, PM in first st worked.  Sk next two sts, 2 sc in ch2-sp.  3 sc in next two ch3-sp, 2 sc in next ch2-sp. *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in corner ch2-sp.  Sk next two sts, 2 sc in ch2-sp.  3 sc in next two ch3-sp, 2 sc in next ch2-sp.*  Repeat from * to * back to marked st.  2 hdc in same ch-sp as first two hdc sts, ch 2, sl st to marked st.  (56 sts) 

*If working an accent color square, switch back to Color A before beginning the last Round 6. 

Round 6:  Ch 2, 2 hdc in the ch2-sp behind the chain, PM in first st worked.  Hdc in each st across until corner ch2-sp.  *(2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in corner ch2-sp.  Hdc in each st to next corner ch2-sp.*  Repeat from * to * around back to marked st.  2 hdc in same ch-sp as first two hdc sts, ch 1, sl st to marked st.  (72 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail twice as long as one side of your square. 

Reference Photos – Rounds 4 – 6

SEAMING THE SQUARES TOGETHER

• Squares are seamed together, 15 squares long and two squares across, to create one long column that will create the inner part of the textured table runner.  Alternate solid color squares with accent color squares to create an offset motif. 
• To begin, seam the squares together to create a 4 x 4 block.  Use the long yarn tails to seam squares across horizontally and vertically up the middle of the column, repeating this process up the column.  Build on the starting 4 x 4 block by adding squares two at a time. 
• NOTE:  I did not block my squares before seaming and did not block the finished table runner as I did not feel it needed blocking; however, you may block your squares or finished project as preferred.     

Squares are seamed together with the wrong sides facing up.  With WS facing up, lay squares side by side in the alternating motif. 

• The squares on the right should have the yarn tail positioned at the top right corner; you will use this yarn tail to seam horizontally across the squares. 
• The squares on the left should have the yarn tail positioned at the bottom right corner; you will use this yarn tail to seam vertically up the inside of column. 

Starting with 4 squares, use stitch markers to pin the squares together at the corners. 

Using the long yarn tail that was positioned on the top right corner of the square on your right, secure the corners together and seam across from right to left.  Use your preferred seaming method (I used the mattress seam for the finished sample).  Connect the squares together in the middle by working your yarn tail into each corner and cinching closed.  Make sure not to pull your seam too tightly so as not to pucker the squares.  At the far end of the horizontal seam, connect the two corners with your yarn tail; you may wish to secure the seam with a knot here, but I left my seam unsecured in the event adjustments were needed. 

Using the long yarn tail that was positioned on the bottom right corner (now in the middle of your 4 x 4 block), secure the corners as you did for the horizontal seaming, and seam the squares together to the point where the four squares were joined in the middle.  You have already secured the corners in the middle of the block.  Drop the yarn tail you started with and pick up the next yarn tail and continue seaming.  At the far end of this vertical seam, connect the two corners with your yarn tail; again, you may wish to secure the seam with a knot or leave unsecured. 

Lay out the next two squares with the yarn tail in the positions mentioned above and repeat this process.  You will continue in this manner until all squares are seamed together and you have one long column consisting of 15 squares by two squares.

Reference Photos – Seaming Squares

EDGING ROWS ALONG LONG SIDE

To crochet the first row, use stitch markers to mark the first and last stitch in each square as you work.  Start the first row by working one single crochet stitch into the corner space.  You will crochet 18 single crochet stitches per square and work one single crochet stitch into each join between squares.  End the row by working the last crochet stitch into the last corner space.  Move the stitch markers to the first and last stitch of each square as you work, to keep track. 

With seamed squares lying flat with RS facing up, join yarn in Color A at the top right corner, in the corner chain space.   

Row 1 (RS):  Ch 1, sc in same st as join, PM in this st.  Sc in each st across, placing one st into the join between squares.  Work the last st into the corner space of the last square.  Turn.  Switch to Color B. (286 sc sts)

Row 2 (WS):  Ch 1, sc in same st at base of tch, PM in this st.  Sc in each st across.  Turn. Switch to Color A. (286 sc sts)

Row 3:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of same st at base of tch, PM in this st. Hdc FLO in next st, hdc FLO in each st across.  Turn.  (286 hdc sts)

Row 4:  Repeat Row 3.  (286 hdc sts)

Row 5:  Ch 2, hdc in same st at base of tch, PM in this st.  *Ch 1, sk next st, hdc in next st.* Repeat from * to * across row until one st remains.  Hdc in last st (if 2 sts remain, ch 1/sk next/hdc to end the row).  Turn.  Switch to Color C.

Row 6:  Ch 2, hdc in same st at base of tch, PM in this st.  2 hdc in ch-sp (if you had 2 sts remaining at the end of Row 5, work one hdc in ch-sp).  2 hdc in each ch-sp across the row until one st remains.  Hdc in last st.  Turn.  Switch to Color A. (286 hdc sts)

Row 7:  Repeat Row 2.  Switch to Color B. 

Row 8:  Repeat Row 2.  Switch to Color A.

Row 9:  Ch 2, hdc in same st at base of tch, PM in this st.  Hdc in next st and each st across.  Turn. 

Row 10:  Ch 2, hdc in both loops of same st at base of tch, PM in this st.  Hdc FLO in next st, hdc FLO in each st across.  Turn. 

Row 11:  Repeat Row 2.  Fasten off.

Repeat the above instructions for the other long side of the table runner.

Reference Photos – Long Rows

EDGING ROWS ALONG SHORT SIDE

With RS facing up, join yarn in Color A at the top right corner.  Use stitch markers to mark the first and last stitch in each square as you work.  You will crochet 18 single crochet stitches per square and work one single crochet stitch into the join between squares. 

Row 1:  Ch 1, sc evenly across ends of the long rows and into each st of the squares, working one sc into the join between the two squares and into the ends of the long rows on the other side.  Fasten off. 

Repeat the above for the other short side.   Fasten off and weave in all your ends.  You may wish to lightly steam block your project before adding fringe. 

Reference Photos – Short Row Edging

Adding Fringe to your Table Runner

• Cut several strands of leftover yarn in your color choice, approximately 8 inches long and separate them into sections with four strands each. 
• Use stitch markers to determine placement of your fringe along the short ends of the table runner.  For the finished sample, 11 fringes are added to each end. 
• With the right side of your finished project facing up, insert your hook where you want to place your fringe and loop the strands over to pull through.  Pull the ends of the strands through the loop that was created and tighten. 
• Repeat this process across the short end on the other side.  Trim your fringe as desired and you are done! 

Reference Photos – Adding Fringe

Want the ad-free version of the Boho Squares Table Runner?  Visit my ETSY and RAVELRY shops!