The Summer Pop Tote is an easy crochet tote featuring gorgeous textured shell stitches and a cotton blend yarn for a fun pop of summer color! This beginner friendly design is perfect as an everyday carryall or a project tote, and the pattern is written in two sizes for easy customization.
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An end-of-summer color pop . . .
This may be in an unpopular opinion, but I am done with summer! The heat, the humidity, the bugs – all of it! By the time August rolls around, I am ready for fall and crisp air and pumpkin spice everything. This final design of the summer captures the last joyful sparks of summer even while I am looking ahead in anticipation of autumn.
Meet the Summer Pop Crochet Tote, a playful, textured carryall that’s as practical as it is beautiful! This tote is all about contrast and character. I used vibrant accent stripes to break up a neutral base, giving it that “summer’s not quite over” energy.
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Design and Inspiration
All of my crochet bags so far have started with the ultimate foundation stitch – the single crochet! It’s incredibly versatile for any project, whether you’re making bags, cardigans, or blankets. It creates a solid, dense fabric that’s perfect for building your piece. The beautifully textured shell stitch in this easy crochet tote is an ideal complement to the single crochet rows. This crochet tote is made from two identical panels that are seamed together and folded in at the bottom corners to create a flatter bottom. Those panels worked up fast too!
The pattern is written for two sizes: 14×16 (the size of the Marina Tote) and 17×9 (the size of the Seaside Beach Tote). The crochet tote bag pictured here is the larger of the two sizes, and it holds a good amount of yarn, making it an ideal project bag. I finished my bag with a fabric lining (click here for the tutorial) and added leather feel straps for extra support.
Scroll down for The Summer Pop Crochet Tote FREE crochet pattern, and CLICK HERE to pin this for later!
Summer Yarn Love
I absolutely love cotton yarn and blends, especially for summer projects! I was looking for a durable, soft yarn that’s easy to work with for a simple crochet tote, and Cotton Hemp by Lion Brand was a delightful new find. This worsted weight cotton/hemp blend comes in gorgeous colors, is soft yet sturdy, and showcases incredible stitch definition. The shell stitches and color changes really pop with the texture of this yarn. I’m definitely planning to create more pieces using this yarn line!
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The Summer Pop Crochet Tote
The Summer Pop Crochet Tote is a vibrant, textured bag designed to celebrate the final days of summer while easing into fall. Featuring playful shell stitches and eye-catching pops of color, this tote combines style with substance. Made with a durable yet soft cotton-hemp blend yarn, it’s perfect for everyday use—from beach outings to market strolls. With its cheerful design and sturdy construction, the Summer Pop Crochet Tote is a joyful reminder that seasonal transitions can be both beautiful and practical.
Scroll down for The Summer Pop Crochet Tote FREE crochet pattern and CLICK HERE to pin this for later!
Want the ad-free PDF version of The Summer Pop Crochet Tote? Visit my ETSY and RAVELRY shops!
The Summer Pop Tote – Free Crochet Tote Pattern
SKILL LEVEL: Advanced Beginner
MATERIALS:
Lion Brand Cotton Hemp (Weight: #4/Worsted 70% Cotton/30% Hemp – 164yd/150m, 3.5oz/100g)
The yardage below is for both sizes:
- Color A – Husk: 2 skeins (approximately 328 yards)
- Color B – Cherry: 1 skein (approximately 164 yards)
- Color C – Maple: 1 skein (approximately 164 yards)
- Color D – Aero: 1 skein (approximately 164 yards)
Bag Straps with Clasps and D-Rings
OPTIONAL FOR FABRIC LINING (click here for tutorial):
Fabric for lining
Craft needle and thread (matching Color A)
Sewing (ball head) Pins or Sewing Clips
GAUGE:
17 stitches X 21 rows in single crochet = 4 inches
3 shell stitches X 7 shell stitch rows = 4 inches
Approximate measurements of finished bags:
Medium Tote Bag – 16 inches wide X 14 inches high
Large Tote Bag – 19 inches wide X 17 inches high
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch(s) – chain(s)
st(s) – stitch(es)
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
tch – turning chain
sk – skip
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
PATTERN NOTES:
- The bag is constructed from two panels that are then seamed together on three sides, beginning with the base color and alternating accent colors using a shell stitch and finishing with the base color.
- After seaming, the bottom corners are folded in to create a flat bottom. This bag utilizes a strap that clasps to D-rings; the D-rings are secured to the top row of the bag after seaming.
- Ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch.
- Ch 3 DOES count as a stitch.
- This crochet tote bag pattern is written in smallest size with largest size following in parentheses as follows: M (L). Total stitch count at the end of each row will be indicated in brackets [ ] at the end of Row 1 and will be the same throughout.
The bag is finished with a fabric lining for extra stability, which is optional, and the lining is hand sewn directly onto the inside of upper part of the bag. Click here for the written tutorial with photos.
- It is recommended to place a stitch marker somewhere on the right side of your panel to help in seaming the panels together when finished. Refer to right side vs. wrong side photos.
- This pattern is written for two specific sizes; however, it can easily be customized. To adjust width, your foundation chain should be a multiple of 6 plus two. To adjust length, adjust the number of single crochet rows in the base color or add/remove rows of shell stitches in the alternating colors.
- The main color (Color A) making up the base of the bag consists of single crochet rows. The accent colors (Color B, C and D) are then added using a shell stitch, or double crochet stitches worked into the same stitch. The majority of the panels are worked with a two-row shell stitch repeat and alternating three colors.
- The bag is finished with a final row in Color A to level out the shell stitches.
- It is recommended to place a stitch marker somewhere on the right side of your panel to help in seaming the panels together when finished.
THE PATTERN:
Make two panels.
In Color A, ch 68 (80)
(WS) Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across, turn. [67 (79) sc sts]
(RS) Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st. Sc in each st across, turn.
Rows 3 – 24 (30): Repeat Row 2.
Still using Color A:
Row 25 (31): Ch 3, 2 dc in same st. Sk next two sts, sc in next st. *Sk next two sts, 5 dc in next st, sk next two sts, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until three sts remain. Sk next two sts, 3 dc in last st. Turn. Switch to Color B.
Row 26 (32): Ch 1, sc in first st. *Sk next two sts, 5 dc in next st, sk next two sts, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until two sts and tch remain. Sk next two sts, sc in top of tch. Turn. Switch to Color C.
Photo References – Base Rows and Row 25 (31)
Photo References – Row 26 (32)
Row 27 (33): Repeat Row 25 (31). Switch to Color D.
Row 28 (34): Repeat Row 26 (32). Switch to Color B.
Rows 29 (35) – 45 (54): Repeat Rows 25 (31) and 26 (32), switching colors at the end of each row to alternate repeating color combination of Colors B, C and D. Row 45 (54) will be worked in Color C, switch to Color D at the end of this row.
Row 46 (55): In Color D, repeat Row (25) 31. Switch to Color A.
Rows 47 (56) – 48 (57): Repeat Rows 26 (32) and 25 (31).
Row 49 (58): Ch 1, sc in first st. *Work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sc) in next six sts.* Repeat from * to * across, ending with last sc in top of tch. Fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming.
Photo References
SEAMING PANELS and SEWING THE BASE
General Notes for Seaming the Panels Together:
- It is recommended to weave in your ends prior to seaming the panels together, so they will not get in the way of seaming. However, this is optional if you are adding lining to the bag as the lining will hide the ends.
- You will be seaming the bag together from the inside (wrong side) of the bag facing you.
- I used the mattress stitch to seam the sides of the panels together using the long yarn tail in Color A. The stitches did show in some places on the outside of the bag but it was not terribly noticeable. I used a whip stitch to seam along the bottom of the panels.
Begin by laying one panel with right side facing up; lay the other panel wrong side up and line up the rows. The right side (what will be the outside of your bag) should be facing in.
Pin into place down the sides of the bag and along the bottom. With your long yarn tail that will be positioned at the top right or left corner of your panels (in Color A), seam down the side of the panel and along the bottom if you have a long enough yarn tail. Repeat down the other side and fasten off.
If you are leaving your ends, tie them off after seaming for extra security.
Photo References
General Notes for Sewing the Base:
- The flat base of the bag is created by folding in the bottom corners to make a triangle and seaming them down.
- You will seam one side of the triangle from the inside and then move your yarn needle to the outside of the bag to seam the second side of the triangle, finishing with the yarn needle back on the inside to finish the third side of the triangle.
- Stitch markers or ball head pins are recommended to pin the folds into place.
With the wrong side of the bag still facing out, place your bag flat on your workspace with the bottom seam (main color) at the top. Measure approximately 5 inches (both sizes) in from each corner and place a stitch marker. You can create a wider base for your bag by placing this point farther in.
Position the bag so that the bottom seam where the two panels have been seamed together lays flat on your workspace. Working on the left side, fold the corner of the bag in to meet the stitch marker. Making sure that the seams line up, secure the point to the stitch marker and pin both sides of the triangle that are visible.
Flipping the bag inside out, you will see how the fold has created a flat edge; place stitch markers along this edge and flip the bag outside in.
Using Color A, secure a long piece of yarn to the point of the triangle at the stitch marker and seam up one side of the triangle; I used the whip stitch here again. When you get to the corner of the triangle where the flat edge begins, bring your yarn needle through to the outside of the bag and flip your bag inside out to continue seaming.
Continue seaming the outer edge, making sure to keep the rows visibly lined up. When you get to the corner of the flat edge, once again bring your yarn needle through to the inside of your bag and flip the bag again.
Seam the third side of the triangle back to the stitch marker and secure with a knot.
Repeat these instructions for the other side of the bag and weave in any remaining ends.
Photo References
With the wrong side of the bag still facing out, place your bag flat on your workspace with the bottom seam (main color) at the top. Measure approximately 5 inches (both sizes) in from each corner and place a stitch marker. 
Position your bag so that the bottom seam is showing and the corners are pushed out. 
Fold the corners in to meet the pin/marker and secure. 
Making sure that the seams line up, secure the point to the stitch marker and pin both sides of the triangle that are visible. 
Flipping the bag inside out, you will see how the fold has created a flat edge; place stitch markers along this edge to secure and make sure the bottom seam lines up with the side seam. Repeat for the other corner. 
Join yarn at the point and seam up to the corner. Pull the yarn through and flip the bag inside out to continue seaming the flat edge. 
Seam along the flat edge; when you get to the other corner, pull the yarn through again and turn the bag out to continue seaming. 
Seam back to the point and tie off. Repeat these instructions for the other corner. 
ATTACHING THE STRAPS
General Notes for the Straps:
- The straps used in the sample were a great find on Amazon and there were lots of options for lengths and colors.
- You can attach the strap’s D-rings to panels before or after seaming the bag together. After you measure and place markers for the rings as per below, you can adjust the placement of the rings as per fit before attaching.
- I threaded my yarn needle with two strands of yarn to provide extra stability to the attachment.
With the outside (right side) of the bag facing you, lay the bag flat on your workspace so that the seams are lined up. Measure four (five) inches in from each end/seam and place a stitch marker; do this for both panels. You will center the D-ring with this marker in the middle.
Lay your D-rings flat on your surface to ensure they are lined up with the other panel and make adjustments if needed. Join a length of yarn in Color A at the marked stitch. Using the yarn needle, loop yarn over the D-ring and back through each stitch until the other corner of the ring is met or until you are satisfied you have enough loops. You may wish to make another pass back to the joined yarn. Tie off your yarn and weave in the ends.
Repeat the above step for the remaining rings. Attach your straps to the rings with their clasps and you are ready to go!
Photo References
With the outside (right side) of the bag facing you, lay the bag flat on your workspace so that the seams are lined up. Measure four (five) inches in from each end/seam and place a stitch marker. 
Repeat this for both panels. You will center the D-ring with this marker in the middle. 
Begin seaming at the corner of the D-ring; insert your needle here and begin sewing the D-ring to the top row of the bag. 
Continue bringing the yarn through the top stitches and over the D-ring to secure. 
Line up the D-ring for the other panel to ensure they match. 
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