The Sylvan Sweater is a lightweight beginner-friendly crochet sweater perfect for transitioning between seasons! With luxurious medium-weight yarn, open stitches, and shorter sleeves, this sweater will take you from the start of fall through the cold weather months!
Scroll down for The Sylvan Sweater free crochet pattern and click HERE to pin this for later!
Finally, September!
Rejoice, the -ber months are finally upon us! Indeed, September is the promise of fall and my favorite time of year. For instance, football is back on television, there’s a hint of color on the trees and it’s pumpkin-everything season. And best of all, it’s time to bring out the sweaters and cardigans!
Moreover, I am thrilled to release the pattern for the Sylvan Sweater, my first cool-weather project of the year! The word “sylvan” is Latin for wood or forest and perfectly captures the sage green color of my finished sweater. It speaks of nature and an earthy, wild feeling that connects with the changes that fall brings. This beginner-friendly lightweight crochet sweater features soft DK weight yarn, an open stitch combination, and 3/4 length sleeves for the perfect sweater to transition into cold weather.
Want the ad-free version of The Sylvan Sweater? Visit my ETSY and RAVELRY shops!
Design Inspiration and Features – The Sylvan Sweater
I wanted a lightweight crochet sweater that was comfortable as well as stylish and easy fitting. The Sylvan Sweater is crocheted starting from the bottom of the panels and features a squishy ribbing for the hemline. The main body of the sweater is crocheted directly onto the ends of the ribbing rows and the front panel is finished with shaping rows to create a scooped neckline. 3/4 length sleeves are crocheted separately and then seamed onto the armholes and are meant to be open and roomy. The sweater’s fit is meant to be relaxed and comfortable, and in similar fashion, the open stitches keep this lightweight crochet sweater from being too heavy or stiff. I love the way my sweater sits right across my hips without being too snug or gapping in the wrong places.
Looking for more cold-weather crochet wearables? Check out The Overlook Cardigan, The Harvest Hooded Sweater and The Bookworm Cardigan!
Scroll down for The Sylvan Sweater free crochet pattern and click HERE to pin this for later!
The Perfect Yarn for a Lightweight Crochet Sweater!
My first time using Superwash Merino by Lion Brand Yarn did not disappoint! Superwash Merino is a favorite for indie yarn dyers because it holds dye really well and is easy to care for. The fibers are treated for a smooth finish and create a much softer and easier-wearing yarn than 100% wool. This luxury DK weight fiber has a soft and squishy hand feel but is affordable and readily available – and machine washable! And the drape on my finished lightweight crochet sweater is incredible! My finished sweater hugs me in all the right places and is the perfect garment for transitioning through the changing seasons. What’s more, as a perpetually hot-natured person, I appreciate a garment that doesn’t feel like it’s suffocating me. With this in mind, Superwash Merino by Lion Brand comes in a variety of gorgeous colors as well!
Want the ad-free version of The Sylvan Sweater? Visit my ETSY and RAVELRY shops!
Crocheting my own sweaters, cardigans and other cold-weather wearables is undeniably one of the best things about being a crochet designer. The pride and sense of accomplishment I feel when I wear a sweater that not only did I make, but created from an idea in my head, is so satisfying! Without a doubt, it lights me up inside to be able to create something that other makers will want to make and wear as well. I hope you enjoy making the Sylvan Sweater and that it becomes a staple of your fall wardrobe!
Scroll down for The Sylvan Sweater free crochet pattern and click HERE to pin this for later!
The Sylvan Sweater – Free Crochet Pattern for a Lightweight Crochet Sweater!
SKILL LEVEL: Advanced Beginner
MATERIALS:
US Size H/8 5.00 mm crochet hook
Lion Brand Superwash Merino (Weight: #3/DK 100% Superwash Merino – 306 yards/170 meters, 3.5 ounces/100 grams)
- Sage – 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8, 9) skeins; approximately 1224 (1224, 1530, 1530, 1836) (1836, 2142, 2448, 2754) yards.
SIZES:
| SIZES | FITS CHEST | FINISHED CHEST | LENGTH OF FRONT AND BACK PANELS (including ribbing) | FINISHED BACK WIDTH (shoulder to shoulder) | ARMHOLE DEPTH | SLEEVE LENGTH (including cuff) | RIBBING HEIGHT (front/back panels) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 28-30” | 32” | 17” | 16” | 6” | 12.25” | 2” |
| S | 32-34” | 36” | 18” | 18” | 6.5” | 12.75” | 2” |
| M | 36-38” | 40” | 19” | 20” | 7” | 13.5” | 2” |
| L | 40-42” | 44” | 20” | 22” | 7.5” | 13.5” | 2” |
| XL | 44-46” | 48” | 21” | 24” | 8” | 12.25” | 2” |
| 2X | 48-50” | 52” | 22” | 26” | 8.5” | 12.25” | 2” |
| 3X | 52-54” | 56” | 22” | 28” | 9” | 12.25” | 2” |
| 4X | 56-58” | 60” | 23” | 30” | 9.5” | 11.25” | 2” |
| 5X | 60-62” | 64” | 23” | 32” | 10” | 11.25” | 2” |
*FITS CHEST refers to the measurement of the intended wearer. FINISHED CHEST refers to the measurements of the finished garment.
*This lightweight crochet sweater is intended to have a relaxed, comfortable fit with 4-6 inches of positive ease in the main panels of the sweater. In addition, the sweater can be customized in the length of the sweater panels and the sleeves.
The sweater pictured is a size Large and the model is 5’4” with a 40” bust.
GAUGE:
- 19 stitches X 16 rows (8 hdc rows/8 ch3-sp rows) = 4 inches
- Ribbing (half double crochet in the back loop only) 14 rows = 4 inches
It is recommended to work a gauge swatch that mirrors the pattern instructions, from the ribbing up.
GAUGE SWATCH:
Ribbing is crocheted first, and then is turned horizontally to work hdc sts across the ends of the rows to continue the swatch from the bottom up.
Ribbing: Ch 11
Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (10 hdc sts)
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc in both loops in first st. Hdc BLO in next st and in each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st. Turn. (10 hdc sts)
Rows 3 – 24: Repeat Row 2.
Turn the ribbing horizontally to work stitches into the ends of the rows. Work approximately 4 hdc stitches for every 3 ribbing rows:
Row 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc across the ends of the ribbing row ends according to the instructions above. Turn. (32 hdc sts)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 2, sc in first st. *Ch 3, sk next two sts, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * across until one st remain. Sc in last st. Turn. (10 ch-sp plus 12 sc = 32)
Row 3 (WS): Ch 2, sk first st, hdc in next st. 3 hdc in each ch3-sp across ending with hdc in last st. Turn. (32 hdc sts)
Rows 4 – 21: Repeat Rows 2 and 3. Measure ribbing and main stitch pattern WITHIN your swatch to determine gauge.
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch(s) – chain(s)
sc – single crochet
sc BLO – single crochet in BACK loop only
sc2tog – single crochet two together
hdc – half double crochet
hdc BLO – half double crochet in BACK loop only
ch-sp – chain space
ch3-sp – chain three space
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
PM – place marker
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
OVERALL PATTERN NOTES:
- Pattern is written in smallest size with larger sizes following in parentheses: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).
- This lightweight crochet sweater is worked in two panels for the main body that are then seamed together at the shoulders and sides. Work the front panel as the back panel except for the last few shaping rows for the scooped neck opening.
- Ribbing is crocheted first at the bottom hems of the panels and then turned horizontally to work half double crochet stitches across the ends of the rows. Work the panels from the bottom ribbing up.
- Sleeves are ¾ length and are worked separately from the cuff and seamed onto the armholes. There are no increase/decrease rows for the sleeves, they are the same width from the cuff to the armhole. Finish the sleeves with simple detailing to slightly cinch in the cuffs.
- Ch 2 and Ch 1 do NOT count as stitches.
- If you are adding length to your lightweight crochet sweater, end with a Row 3 repeat and make sure to adjust the front panel accordingly. For example, if you are working the size L and want to add 6 rows, the back panel will now end at row 79. Neckline shaping for the front panel for size L begins 10 rows less than the back panel; in order to account for the front panel shaping for that size, you will need to end your front panel at row 69 before beginning your neckline shaping rows.
- If you are adding length to the sleeves, end with a Row 3 repeat.
Special Stitches
Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog): Insert hook into intended stitch, YO and pull up a loop (two loops on the hook). Insert hook into next stitch, YO and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook). YO and pull through all three loops.
MAIN PANELS OF THE SWEATER
Notes: Ribbing is crocheted first, and then is turned horizontally to work hdc sts across the ends of the rows to continue the panels from the bottom up.
Back Panel
RIBBING
Foundation Row: Ch 11.
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each across. Turn. (10 hdc sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in both loops of first st. Hdc BLO in next st and each st across, ending with hdc in both loops of last st. Turn. (10 hdc sts)
Rows 3 – 56 (63, 71, 78, 85) (91, 98, 105, 112): Repeat Row 2. Do not fasten off, continue using the same working yarn from the ribbing.
Continuing the Panel
Turn the ribbing horizontally to work stitches into the ends of the rows. Work approximately 4 hdc stitches for every 3 ribbing rows as per below:
- XS: 74 sts across 56 rows – 4 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 2 hdc sts into last 2 rows.
- S: 83 sts across 63 rows – 4 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 3 hdc sts into last 3 rows.
- M: 95 sts across 71 rows – 4 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 3 hdc sts into last 2 rows.
- L: 104 sts across 78 rows – 4 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows.
- XL: 113 sts across 85 rows – 4 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last hdc st into last row.
- 2X: 122 sts across 91 rows – 4 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 2 hdc sts into last row.
- 3X: 131 sts across 98 rows – 4 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last 3 hdc sts into last 2 rows.
- 4X: 140 sts across 105 rows – 4 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows.
- 5X: 149 sts across 112 rows – 4 hdc sts for every 3 ribbing rows, working last hdc st into last row.
Working along the ends of the ribbing rows:
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc across the ends of the ribbing row ends according to the instructions above. Turn. [74 (83, 95, 104, 113) (122, 131, 140, 149) hdc sts]
Row 2 (RS): Ch 2, sc in first st. *Ch 3, sk next two sts, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * across until one st remains. Sc in last st. Turn. [24 (27, 31, 34, 37) (40, 43, 46, 49) ch-sp]
Row 3 (WS): Ch 2, sk first st, hdc in next st. 3 hdc in each ch3-sp across, ending with hdc in last st. Turn. [74 (83, 95, 104, 113) (122, 131, 140, 149) hdc sts]
Rows 4 – 61 (65, 69, 73, 77) (81, 81, 85, 85): Repeat Rows 2 and 3 and fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming.
Photo References – Ribbing and Panels
Crocheting the ribbing rows first. 
The ribbing is completed and turned so that the first row of the panel is worked into the ends of the ribbing rows. 
The beginning of Row 1, working half double crochet stitches into the ends of the rows. 
Use stitch markers to keep your place as you work down the rows. 
Here 8 hdc sts are worked over 6 rows and the marker is moved down. 
Continuing down the row – you can use markers to keep track of how many stitches you have worked. 
Row 1 is completed. 
Continuing Row 2. 
Row 2 is completed. 
Indicating 3 hdc sts worked into the first ch3-sp. Continue to work stitches into the chain spaces across the row. 
Continuing Row 3. 
Front Panel
Repeat back panel instructions for ribbing and panel until Row 53 (57, 61, 63, 67) (69, 69, 71, 71) is completed. Do not fasten off, you will now work shaping rows for the neck opening.
With RS facing up, count 26 (29, 32, 35, 35) (38, 41, 44, 47) stitches in from the LEFT side and place marker into that stitch. Count 25 (28, 31, 34, 34) (37, 40, 43, 46) in from the RIGHT side and place marker into that stitch.
Shaping Rows on the RIGHT side of the panel (left shoulder when worn)
Row 1: Ch 2, sc in first st. *Ch 3, sk next two sts, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until two sts and marked st remain. Ch 1, sk next two sts, sc in marked st. Turn. [8 (9, 10, 11, 11) (12, 13, 14, 15) ch-sp]
Row 2 (WS) decrease: Ch 1, hdc in first ch-sp, PM in this stitch. 3 hdc in each ch3-sp across, ending with hdc in last st. Turn. [23 (26, 29, 32, 32) (35, 38, 41, 44) hdc sts]
Row 3 (RS): Ch 2, sc in first st. *Ch 3, sk next two sts, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st remains, sc in last st. Turn. [7 (8, 9, 10, 10) (11, 12, 13, 14) ch-sp]
Row 4: Ch 1, sk first st, hdc in next st, PM into this stitch. 3 hdc in each ch3-sp across, ending with hdc in last st. Turn. [23 (26, 29, 32, 32) (35, 38, 41, 44) hdc sts]
Row 5 (decrease): Ch 2, sc in first st. *Ch 3, sk next two sts, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until four sts remain. Ch 1, sk next two sts, sc2tog in next two sts. [7 (8, 9, 10, 10) (11, 12, 13, 14) ch-sp]
Row 6 (decrease): Repeat Row 2. [20 (23, 26, 29, 29) (32, 35, 38, 41) hdc sts]
Row 7: Repeat Row 3. [6 (7, 8, 9, 9) (10, 11, 12, 13) ch-sp]
Row 8: Repeat Row 4. [20 (23, 26, 29, 29) (32, 35, 38, 41) hdc sts]
Sizes XS, S and M: Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.
Row 9 (decrease): Repeat Row 5. [– (–, –, 9, 9) (10, 11, 12, 13) ch-sp]
Row 10 (decrease): Repeat Row 2. [– (–, –, 26, 26) (29, 32, 35, 38) hdc sts]
Sizes L and XL: Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.
Row 11: Repeat Row 3. [– (–, –, –, –) (9, 10, 11, 12) ch-sp]
Row 12: Repeat Row 4. [– (–, –, –, –) (29, 32, 35, 38) hdc sts]
Sizes 2X and 3X: Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.
Row 13 (decrease): Repeat Row 5. [– (–, –, –, –) (–, –, 11, 12) ch-sp]
Row 14 (decrease): Repeat Row 2. [– (–, –, –, –) (–, –, 32, 35) hdc sts]
Sizes 4X and 5X: Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.
Photos References – Right Side Shaping
With the RS facing up, count in from each side the number of stitches indicated for your size and place markers in those stitches. 
Row 1 is completed. 
The beginning of Row 2, you will work hdc into the first ch-sp and then continue with 3 hdc in each ch3-sp across. 
Row 2 is completed. 
Row 3 is completed. 
Row 4 is completed. 
Row 5 is completed. 
Right side shaping rows are completed (size L pictured here) and shown with WS facing up.
Shaping Rows on the LEFT side of the panel (right shoulder when worn)
With panel lying flat with RS facing up and completed right shoulder to your right, join yarn at the stitch marker on the left.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st as joined st and PM in this st. Ch 1, sk next two sts, sc in next st. *Ch 3, sk next two sts, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st remains, sc in last st. Turn. [8 (9, 10, 11, 11) (12, 13, 14, 15) ch-sp]
Row 2 (WS) decrease: Ch 2, sk first st, hdc in next st. 3 hdc in each ch3-sp across until ch1-sp and one st remains. Sc2tog in ch1-sp and last st. Turn. [23 (26, 29, 32, 32) (35, 38, 41, 44) hdc sts]
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st and PM in this stitch. *Ch 3, sk next two sts, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st remains, sc in last st. Turn. [7 (8, 9, 10, 10) (11, 12, 13, 14) ch-sp]
Row 4: Ch 2, sk first st, hdc in next st. 3 hdc in each ch3-sp across, ending with hdc in last st. Turn. [23 (26, 29, 32, 32) (35, 38, 41, 44) hdc sts]
Row 5 (decrease): Ch 1, sc in first st and PM in this st. Ch 1, sk next two sts, sc in next st. *Ch 3, sk next two sts, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until one st remain, sc in last st. Turn. [7 (8, 9, 10, 10) (11, 12, 13, 14) ch-sp]
Row 6 (decrease): Repeat Row 2. [20 (23, 26, 29, 29) (32, 35, 38, 41) hdc sts]
Row 7: Repeat Row 3. [6 (7, 8, 9, 9) (10, 11, 12, 13) ch-sp]
Row 8: Repeat Row 4. [20 (23, 26, 29, 29) (32, 35, 38, 41) hdc sts]
Sizes XS, S and M: Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.
Row 9 (decrease): Repeat Row 5. [– (–, –, 9, 9) (10, 11, 12, 13) ch-sp]
Row 10 (decrease): Repeat Row 2. [– (–, –, 26, 26) (29, 32, 35, 38) hdc sts]
Sizes L and XL: Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.
Row 11: Repeat Row 3. [– (–, –, –, –) (9, 10, 11, 12) ch-sp]
Row 12: Repeat Row 4. [– (–, –, –, –) (29, 32, 35, 38) hdc sts]
Sizes 2X and 3X: Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.
Row 13 (decrease): Repeat Row 5. [– (–, –, –, –) (–, –, 11, 12) ch-sp]
Row 14 (decrease): Repeat Row 2. [– (–, –, –, –) (–, –, 32, 35) hdc sts]
Sizes 4X and 5X: Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.
Photo References – Left Side Shaping
With RS facing up, join yarn at the marker on the left. The completed right shoulder is on your right. 
The beginning of Row 1. 
Row 1 is completed. 
Continuing with Row 3. 
Row 3 is completed. 
Row 4 is completed. 
The beginning of Row 5. 
Row 5 is completed. 
Left side shaping rows are completed (size L pictured here) and shown with WS facing up. 
Both shaping rows are completed (size L pictured).
SLEEVES (make 2)
Sleeves are worked flat in turned rows from the forearm to the shoulder and rows do not increase or decrease. The long yarn tail is used to seam the sleeves onto the armholes and down the inside of the sleeve to the cuffs.
Foundation Row: Ch 57 (63, 69, 72, 78) (81 , 87, 90, 96)
Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. [56 (62, 68, 71, 77) (80, 86, 89, 95) hdc sts]
Row 2 (RS): Ch 2, sc in first st. *Ch 3, sk next two sts, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * across until one st remains. Sc in last st. Turn. [18 (20, 22, 23, 25) (26, 28, 29, 31) ch-sp]
Row 3 (WS): Ch 2, sk first st, hdc in next st. 3 hdc in each ch3-sp across, ending with hdc in last st. Turn. [56 (62, 68, 71, 77) (80, 86, 89, 95) hdc sts]
Rows 4 – 45 (47, 51, 51, 45) (45, 45, 41, 41): Repeat Rows 2 and 3 and fasten sleeve off, leaving a yarn tail twice the length of the entire armhole and down the inside of the sleeve to the cuff.
SEAMING THE PANELS AND SLEEVES
PANELS
Lay the back panel flat with the wrong side facing up and position the front panel on top with the right side facing up. You will be seaming the sweater together with the right sides facing out. Make sure to line up the stitches across the top of the sweater in order to match the hdc clusters to each other; secure with stitch markers. Using the yarn tails, seam the shoulders. I used the mattress stitch to seam my lightweight crochet sweater because this seaming method creates a smooth join.
Line up the sides of the sweater and pin, leaving 6 (6.5, 7, 7.5, 8) (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10) inches for the armholes. Make sure the hdc clusters are in line with each other and rows are lined up with each other from the back panel to the front panel. Join yarn at the armpits and seam down the sides of the sweater, ending where the ribbed cuff begins. Again, I used the mattress stitch to seam my sweater as this creates a smooth join.
SLEEVES
Repeat for both sleeves:
Lay the sleeves flat with WS facing up and fold the sleeve over to line up the rows. RS is now facing up; pin the sleeve together down the inner seam to hold in place, making sure to line up the hdc cluster rows. Attach the sleeve to the armhole with stitch markers.
Using the long yarn tail and beginning at the armpit, seam the sleeves to the armhole using the mattress seam, working your way back to the armpit. From the armpit, continue seaming down the inside of the sleeve to the cuffs and fasten off.
Photo References – Seaming
Lay the back panel WS up and lay the front panel on top with RS facing up. Measure for the armholes and secure the shoulders and sides with markers. 
Join yarn at the armpit and seam down the sides. 
Close up of the mattress seam. 
Completed side seams. 
The sleeves are completed and ready to be seamed onto the armholes. 
Use stitch markers to pin the underside of the seam together, lining up the rows, and pin to the armhole. 
You will use the long yarn tail to seam the sleeve to armhole back around to the armpit and continuing down the inner seam of the sleeve. 
Seaming the sleeves to the armhole. 
Seaming is completed!
COLLAR EDGING
Edging is added to the neckline in rounds that do not turn. Overall stitch count is not important as long as stitches are crocheted evenly so the first round does not pucker or curl.
With the sweater lying flat and RS facing up, join yarn on the right side facing you where the last shaping row of the front panel meets the shoulder seam. Working along the front panel:
Round 1: Ch 1, sc into same st as join and PM into this st. Sc evenly into ends of shaping rows, across front panel sts, into ends of shaping rows on other side and across back panel sts until marked st is reached. Sc into marked st and move marker up into this st. DO NOT TURN.
Round 2: Sc in each st around to marked st. Sl st into marked st and move marker up into this st. DO NOT TURN.
Round 3: Sl st BLO in each st around to marked st. Sl st into marked st and fasten off.
Photo References – Collar
Join yarn where the right side (as facing you) shoulder rows meets the shoulder seam. 
Working along the front panel, single crochet evenly into the ends of the shaping rows. 
Collar round 1. 
Continuing Round 1, working stitches along the front panel. You will continue this round back up the shaping rows and across the back panel until you reach the marked stitch. 
Working back to the marked stitch, single crochet into the marked stitch and move the marker up into that stitch. 
Continuing with Round 2. 
Round 2 is completed. 
Working slip stitches for Round 3. 
Detail of slip stitches.
SLEEVE EDGING DETAILS
Crochet edging directly onto the ends of the sleeves in rounds that do not turn. Crochet the first round into the foundation chain of the sleeve; the directions below apply as for both sleeves.
**You should have the same number of stitches as for the flat turned rows of the sleeves, but depending on how you join yarn you may have one or two more or less stitches; this is not crucial as long as the rounds worked do not pucker or curl which would indicate too many or too few stitches.
With the sweater facing RS up, join yarn at the end of the sleeve at the inner seam. Working along the side of the cuff that is facing you:
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in the same st as join and PM in this stitch. Sc into each chain around back to marked stitch. DO NOT TURN.
Round 2: Sc in marked st and move marker up to this st. Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog in next 2 sts. *Sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog in next 2 sts.* Repeat from * to * back to marked st. If there are not enough sts to work a repeat at the end, sc in each st remaining. DO NOT TURN.
Round 3: Sc in both loops of marked st and move marker up to this st. Sc BLO in each st around back to marked st, sl st in both loops of marked st. Fasten off.
Photo References – Sleeve Edging
Join yarn at the seam and begin Round 1 by working single crochet stitches into the foundation chain. 
Detail of foundation chain; needle indicates where the single crochet stitches are to be placed. 
Round 1 is completed; single crochet into the marked stitch and move the marker up in into that stitch. 
Sc2tog (single crochet two together) 
Round 2 is completed. 
The beginning of Round 3, working single crochet stitches into the back loop only. 
Edging details for the sleeve is completed! 
Repeat the above for the other sleeve. Weave in all your ends and enjoy wearing your lightweight crochet sweater!
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