A unique asymmetrical crochet wrap featuring hand-dyed sock weight yarn, The Mood Swings Wrap is a beginner-friendly and easy-to-follow design that is a joy to crochet and will be the perfect accessory to transition you into spring!
Scroll down for the free crochet pattern for the Mood Swings Wrap and click here to PIN this for later!
Spring is around the corner!
It always seems like this time of year just drags on and on (if you read my last blog post, you know how I feel about February), and it’s hard to believe we are halfway through March. Fall is my favorite season, but I do love the transition from winter into spring. Even though we still have chilly mornings and overnight freeze warnings, nature cannot hold itself back with new grass in the backyard, buds on the trees, and robins everywhere.
Some may think that fiber arts are confined to the colder months when all we want to crochet is sweaters, cardigans, and bulky blankets – but I love designing in the spring and summer just as much! I am so excited to introduce The Mood Swings Wrap, an asymmetrical crochet wrap featuring hand-dyed sock weight yarn!
Purchase the ad-free PDF digital download versions from my shops below!
Inspiration for this Easy Crochet Wrap
Real talk here – I have reached the point in my late forties where everything is all out of whack with my body and my mood swings are crazy! One minute I am filled with joy and hope and positive vibes and literally the next moment I feel out of control and want to flip a table. It’s rough times. The Mood Swings Wrap speaks to my personal journey in managing all those ups and downs and this is especially evident in the dark and moody contrasting colorways I was drawn to. I love the shape of an asymmetrical crochet wrap, especially for this time of year since it can be worn loose. And lightweight yarn is a must because the hot flashes are something else, I can tell you!
Let’s talk about fingering weight yarn . . .
Working with sock weight yarn can be a bit intimidating but it’s definitely not just for knitters! I purchased a wrap kit from an awesome indie yarn dyer last fall and once I laid my hands on those skeins and felt the incredible squish and off-the-charts drape, I was hooked on sock weight! I’ve been wanting to design something ever since, and this asymmetrical crochet wrap uses basic stitches and repeating sections that make this design perfect for an introduction to lightweight yarn. I chose hand-dyed yarn from Sewrella Yarn for this project for its uniqueness but there are lots of other economical yarn choices for this yarn weight. WeCrochet has a great selection of fingering weight yarn with hand painted and tonal options.
Looking for your next hand-dyed yarn project? I’ve got you covered! Check out the Embers Shawl, the Fallen Leaves Scarf and the Watercolors Wrap for inspiration!
Make this asymmetrical crochet wrap your own!
The beauty of creating handmade things is how unique a finished project is to you, even if you replicate a design exactly, because it came from your hands and you poured your energy and emotion into it. Mental health is crucial and is one of the reasons I crochet, every day if I can manage it. I am super proud of this design, and its really about embracing whatever current headspace I am in and being grateful for ALL the experiences and trials and triumphs. I hope YOUR asymmetrical crochet wrap reflects your journey and represents where you are on that path and that you truly call it your own!
Happy stitching, friends!
Scroll down for the free crochet pattern for the Mood Swings Wrap and click here to PIN this for later!
Purchase the ad-free PDF digital download versions from my shops below!
The Mood Swings Wrap – Free Pattern for an Asymmetrical Crochet Wrap
SKILL LEVEL: Advanced Beginner
MATERIALS:
#1/Fingering weight yarn, approximately 1200 yards used
- Featured yarn: Sewrella Yarn #1/Classic Sock weight 100% Superwash Merino – 400 yards/100g
- Color A – The City That Never Sleeps (2 hanks, 800 yards)
- Color B – Speakeasy (1 hank, 400 yards)
GAUGE: 17 dc X 11 rows = 4 inches
(11 rows above include 6 rows hdc, 5 rows dc)
Gauge is not particularly important for this project as long as the drape of your project is as desired. If the wrap is stiff and the stitches are working too tightly, consider going up a half or whole hook size.
Finished Wrap: approximately 38” wide and 58” long down the side that does not increase
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch(s) – chain(s)
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
sk – skip
st(s) – stitch(es)
tch – turning chain
ch2-sp – chain two space
PATTERN NOTES:
- There is no wrong side or right side to this reversible asymmetrical wrap.
- This asymmetrical crochet wrap is created by increasing each row by one stitch on the same side. You will work an increase (2 stitches into the same stitch as indicated in the pattern) either at the beginning of a row or at the end of a row.
- There are two repeating sections of this wrap – a section that alternates half double and double crochet rows and a lace section with skipped stitches.
- Beginning in Row 4, half double crochet rows are increased at beginning of the row and double crochet rows are increased at the end of the row.
- The ch 2 turning chain DOES count as a stitch; overall stitch counts are indicated in parentheses ( ) at the end of each indicated row.
- I did have leftover yarn, but please make sure to purchase additional yarn if you wish to add rows or embellishments like tassels or fringe to your finished wrap.
THE PATTERN:
With Color A, chain 3.
Row 1: 2 dc in the 3rd ch from hook. Turn. (3)
Row 2: Ch 2, dc in same st as base of tch, dc in next st, dc in top of tch. Turn. (4)
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in 1st st (not st at base of tch), dc in next st, 2 dc in top of tch. Turn. (5)
Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in same st as base of tch, hdc in each st across ending with last hdc in top of tch. Turn. (6)
Row 5: Ch 2, dc in 1st st (not st at base of tch), dc in each st across, ending with 2 dc in top of tch. Turn. (7)
Rows 6 – 11: Repeat Rows 4 and 5. (13)
Row 12: Repeat Row 4. (14)
LACE SECTION
Row 13: Ch 2, dc in 1st st (not st at base of tch), ch 2. *Sk 2 st, dc in next st, ch 2.* Repeat from * to * until 2 st and tch remain. Sk last 2 st, 2 dc in top of tch, turn. (15)
Row 14: Ch 2, hdc in same st as base of tch, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in first ch2-sp. *Hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next ch2-sp.* Repeat from * to * until one st and tch remain. Hdc in last st, hdc in top of tch, turn. (16)
Row 15: Ch 2, dc in 1st st (not st at base of tch), dc in each st across, ending with 2 dc in top of tch. Turn. (17)
Row 16: Ch 2, hdc in same st as base of tch. *Ch 2, sk 2 st, hdc in next st.* Repeat * to * until tch remain. Hdc in top of tch, turn. (18)
Row 17: Ch 2, dc in 1st st (not st at base of tch), dc in next st, 2 dc in first ch2-sp. *Dc in next st, dc in next ch2-sp.* Repeat from * to * until one st and tch remain. Dc in last st, dc in top of tch, turn. (19)
Row 18: Ch 2, hdc in same st as base of tch, hdc in each st across ending with last hdc in top of tch. Turn. (20)
Rows 19 – 24: Repeat Rows 13 through 18. (26)
Row 25: Ch 2, dc in 1st st (not st at base of tch), dc in each st across, ending with 2 dc in top of tch. Turn. (27)
Row 26: Ch 2, hdc in same st as base of tch, hdc in each st across ending with last hdc in top of tch. Turn. (28) Place stitch marker at the end of this row to make counting rows easier.
Rows 27 – 36: Repeat Rows 25 and 26. (38)
Rows 37 – 48: Repeat Rows 13 through 24 of lace section. (50)
Row 49: Ch 2, dc in 1st st (not st at base of tch), dc in each st across, ending with 2 dc in top of tch. Turn. (51)
Row 50: Ch 2, hdc in same st as base of tch, hdc in each st across ending with last hdc in top of tch. Turn. (52) Move stitch marker up to the end of this row to make counting rows easier.
Rows 51 – 60: Repeat Rows 49 and 50. (62)
Rows 61 – 72: Repeat Rows 13 through 24 of lace section. (74)
Row 73: Ch 2, dc in 1st st (not st at base of tch), dc in each st across, ending with 2 dc in top of tch. Turn. (75)
Row 74: Ch 2, hdc in same st as base of tch, hdc in each st across ending with last hdc in top of tch. Turn. (76) Move stitch marker up to the end of this row to make counting rows easier.
Beginning of color fade sections:
Rows 75 – 84: Repeat Rows 73 and 74, switching colors as indicated in the chart below.
| Rows 75-76 | Color A |
| Row 77 | Color B |
| Rows 78-79 | Color A |
| Rows 80-81 | Color B |
| Rows 82-83 | Color A |
| Row 84 | Color B |
Continuing in Color B:
Rows 85 – 96: Repeat Rows 13 through 24 of lace section, switching colors as indicated in the chart below.
| Rows 85-86 | Color B |
| Row 87 | Color A |
| Rows 88-89 | Color B |
| Row 90 | Color A |
| Rows 91-95 | Color B |
| Row 96 | Color A |
Switching to Color B:
Row 97: Ch 2, dc in 1st st (not st at base of tch), dc in each st across, ending with 2 dc in top of tch. Turn. (99)
Row 98: Ch 2, hdc in same st as base of tch, hdc in each st across ending with last hdc in top of tch. Turn. (100) Move stitch marker up to the end of this row to make counting rows easier.
Rows 99 – 108: Repeat Rows 97 and 98. (110)
Rows 109 – 120: Repeat Rows 13 through 24 of lace section, switching colors as indicated in the chart below.
| Rows 109-110 | Color B |
| Row 111 | Color A |
| Rows 112-113 | Color B |
| Row 114 | Color A |
| Rows 115-119 | Color B |
| Row 120 | Color A |
Continuing in Color A:
Row 121: Ch 2, dc in 1st st (not st at base of tch), dc in each st across, ending with 2 dc in top of tch. Turn. (123)
Row 122: Ch 2, hdc in same st as base of tch, hdc in each st across ending with last hdc in top of tch. Turn. (124) Move stitch marker up to the end of this row to make counting rows easier.
Rows 123 – 132: Repeat Rows 121 and 122, switching colors as indicated in the chart below.
| Rows 123-124 | Color B |
| Rows 125-127 | Color A |
| Row 128 | Color B |
| Rows 129-131 | Color A |
| Row 132 | Color B |
Switching to Color A and continuing for the remainder of the pattern:
Rows 133 – 144: Repeat Rows 13 through 24 of lace section. (146)
Row 145: Ch 2, dc in 1st st (not st at base of tch), dc in each st across, ending with 2 dc in top of tch. Turn. (147)
Row 146: Ch 2, hdc in same st as base of tch, hdc in each st across ending with last hdc in top of tch. Turn. (148) Place stitch marker at the end of this row to make counting rows easier.
Rows 147 – 156: Repeat Rows 145 and 146. (158)
Row 157: Ch 2, dc in 1st st (not st at base of tch), ch 2. *Sk 2 st, dc in next st, ch 2.* Repeat from * to * until 2 st and tch remain. Sk last 2 st, 2 dc in top of tch, turn. (159)
Row 158: Ch 2, hdc in same st as base of tch, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in first ch2-sp. *Hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next ch2-sp.* Repeat from * to * until one st and tch remain. Hdc in last st, hdc in top of tch, turn. (160)
Row 159: Ch 2, dc in 1st st (not st at base of tch), dc in each st across, ending with 2 dc in top of tch. Turn. (161)
Fasten off and weave in ends, and get ready to rock your asymmetrical crochet wrap!
REFERENCE PHOTOS
The beginning of Row 4; you will work the first half double crochet into the same stitch as the turning chain, indicated here by the needle. 
Row 4: The completed first half double crochet stitch at the base of the turning chain. 
The end of Row 4, the last two half double crochet stitches are worked into the last stitch (indicated by the needle here) and the turning chain. 
The needle indicates the top of the turning chain, where you will work the last half double crochet in this row. 
The beginning of Row 5, the needle indicates the first stitch; you will work a double crochet into this stitch, not the stitch at the base of the turning chain. 
Double crochet worked into the first stitch. 
The end of Row 5, you will work two double crochet stitches into the top of the turning chain. 
Row 13, the first row in the lace section; this is a double crochet row. 
The beginning of Row 14, half double crochet stitches are worked into the chain 2 spaces from the row below. 
The end of Row 14. 
Row 14 completed.
